fun car guy Posted July 18, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted July 18, 2021 6 hours ago, Ronnie said: I might be misunderstanding what you are saying. If you "worked the brakes" with the pump running and then refilled the reservoir when the fluid level dropped you didn't follow the instructions. You overfilled the reservoir. If I understand the directions, it says to pump the brakes about 20 times to release the pressure, then fill the reservoir to the full mark which I did. Then, moved the car out of the garage a bit and hit the brakes, then pulled back in, again hitting the brakes. Then noticed the level of fluid had gone back down to the previous level so I refilled it again to the full mark. Is thins not the correct procedure? If not, please advise. Thanks. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted July 18, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted July 18, 2021 btw, there were no leaks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 46 minutes ago, fun car guy said: If I understand the directions, it says to pump the brakes about 20 times to release the pressure, then fill the reservoir to the full mark which I did. That part is right. 46 minutes ago, fun car guy said: Then, moved the car out of the garage a bit and hit the brakes, then pulled back in, again hitting the brakes. Then noticed the level of fluid had gone back down to the previous level so I refilled it again to the full mark That part sounds wrong and you have probably overfilled the reservoir. If you had the engine running to move the car, that means the key was on and the brake pump was running and building pressure, which pulled fluid out of the reservoir and put it in the accumulator. If you added fluid to the reservoir again when the fluid dropped you screwed up. If the reservoir is filled properly the fluid level in the reservoir will drop about 1/2" when the pump runs and the system is pressurized. That is the normal operating level of the fluid in the reservoir. No fluid should be added at that point. You should only add fluid after pumping the brakes 25 times to remove the pressure from the system as described in the instructions posted in the How-to section of ROJ. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted July 19, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted July 19, 2021 btw, there were no leaks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted July 19, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted July 19, 2021 Okay, I didn't see the part about the fluid level being normal at about 1/2" below the full mark. When I get it back, I'll draw some out to the correct level. By the way, If I overfilled and it didn't leak, I'm taking that as a positive sign that for now at least, the brake lines are sound. Also, when I was braking the car, even though the brakes were weak they never pulled the car to the side but straight ahead, indicating that the proportioning valve is working. I take all this as a positive sign. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted July 19, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted July 19, 2021 By the way, there's an '88 with 110,000 miles in red/tan interior and a sun roof for sale on marketplace. They say it's in good shape but hesitates on acceleration and was told it was the tranny. Now, I know the resale prices are low except for the very fine examples and a tranny transplant prohibitive unless you can do it yourself I but thought I would let the membership know. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 19, 2021 Share Posted July 19, 2021 21 minutes ago, fun car guy said: Okay, I didn't see the part about the fluid level being normal at about 1/2" below the full mark That is normal when the pump has pressurized the system and filled the accumulator. The fluid should be on the full mark when you pump the brake pedal 25 times to relieve the pressure. Doing that allows the fluid in the accumulator to go back into the reservoir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted July 25, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted July 25, 2021 So, under normal operation, the fluid level should be below the full mark? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted July 25, 2021 Share Posted July 25, 2021 18 minutes ago, fun car guy said: So, under normal operation, the fluid level should be below the full mark? Yes, absolutely. It should be ~1/2” below the full line when the system is fully charged. As the accumulator wears and ages the amount of fluid drop will slowly increase which gives an indication of the amount of nitrogen gas charge in the accumulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLTherio Posted July 25, 2021 Share Posted July 25, 2021 Would it be advantageous when storing it away for winter to pump the system down to relieve the pressure in the nitrogen accumulator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nailhed66 Posted July 25, 2021 Share Posted July 25, 2021 As a fairly new Reatta owner, this explains the mystery of the fluctuating fluid level in the reservoir and why the brake pedal has no pressure prior to starting the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted July 25, 2021 Share Posted July 25, 2021 3 hours ago, RLTherio said: Would it be advantageous when storing it away for winter to pump the system down to relieve the pressure in the nitrogen accumulator? Maybe, but I don’t think it will make much difference. The fluid pressure bleeds down overnight in any case although not completely. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted July 31, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted July 31, 2021 Okay, I realize I've wavered back and fourth on this and I know you guys are likely tired of hearing about it but I swear this car has a hold on me! After my mechanic estimated $3,500 to $4,000 for him to do the work and regretfully deciding to sell I posted on Facebook Marketplace for $1,500.00 and was buried with interest that afternoon and evening. Some were just curious, some had questions, and some even offered to take it sight unseen but most wanted to come and see it. The first guy showed up, said he already has two Reattas, red and white, but was definitely interested in mine, even said he wanted it after driving it. However, seeing him drive my car down our long driveway and turning on to our access road I had pangs of regret and turned him down. I decided this is my car to slowly repair as I have time and enjoy so I jumped in, started it and drove it on the access road, amazed at how much better it ran and stopped. My mechanic had rebuilt the master cylinder and, although not totally fixed, the brakes are much better making me think I should get myself a better hoist, four jack stands and get busy attempting to finish bleeding the lines and replacing any calipers as needed. Then, take the car into town, fill the tank adding a bottle of injector cleaner. The engine is also running better after the two clogged injectors were cleaned by the mechanic as it turned out to be the reason for the rough running. Of course, I'll repair or replace the tank and lines eventually but at least I'll be able to drive the thing on short distances this summer. Also, a bottle of stop leak took care of the slowly leaking power steering so I'm feeling very positive about this. Thanks for reading and your encouragement, guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 31, 2021 Share Posted July 31, 2021 That is a really nice looking Reatta. You were wise to keep it instead of sell it at the price you were asking. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted August 1, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 1, 2021 Thanks, Ronnie, 2 seater and Ron Walker. Yes, in spite of it's problems, I think I'll be able to make it road worthy again, it's just going to take work, a few more dollars for parts and I'll gain knowledge at the same time. I bought this car knowing it needed repairs and that the mileage was on the high side but it was the best example I could afford and I was eager to learn about it and make it mine. I love everything about the Reatta because there are so many advantages. Being 6'3", I could never fit into a Miata or MG. Besides, they're underpowered and parts are expensive and a Vette is such a cliche. I've always wanted a 2 seater, just for myself and I'm sure you'll agree the Reatta is the perfect choice. Since it's black, once I get it on the road, I'll name it Raven and my vanity plate will read NVRMORE.😏 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted August 2, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 2, 2021 A question..... My mechanic tells me that because my car sat outside for two years that it's likely there is rust inside the gas tank due to condensation. He showed me a pic of one of my injectors that was partially clogged by a fine reddish-brown powder from the tank. My question is, if that's so, why didn't the fuel filter catch it? Also, exactly where is the filter so I can inspect and replace it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 (edited) Fuel filter on the 1989 coupe is under the car at about where the left foot of the driver is. Kind of looks like an oil filter. The fuel line has a male end coupling that you remove with a wrench and then you unscrew the filter from the connector on the engine side of the filter. Edited August 2, 2021 by DAVES89 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted August 3, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 3, 2021 Thanks, Dave. I'll have a look tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted August 3, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 3, 2021 In reviewing the mechanic's diagnosis of my car's braking system he says the accumulator and the ABS "modual?" valves aren't working. When I use the brakes, even though they're weak, they still stop the car and don't pull either way. Do his findings seem accurate? I can buy a master unit minus accumulator, pump motor and pressure switch for 250.00 or an entire master for 500.00 which is a bit of a shock. Naturally, none of this is new but has been tested and known to be good. Normally, I'd just replace the entire thing but 500.00 is a chunk of change! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted August 3, 2021 Share Posted August 3, 2021 If the pump stops working entirely then the brakes will require A Lot of pedal pressure (both feet and pull on steering wheel) to stop. If the ABS has an issue then it will set error codes, are there any ? 12 is no codes, The accumulator will not set codes but BRAKE light will go out until you step on the brake and when released will go out a few seconds later. Few know how to properly test a Teves II or Bosch III (very similar). I only have one car that does not have ABS now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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