Ronnie Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 8 minutes ago, fun car guy said: it would need an entirely new fuel system so apparently all I have is a parts car. From what you have told us I wouldn't consider it a parts car. In the hands of someone who could do the work themselves it is a repairable car that could be saved by spending just a little money. I would agree that it doesn't make sense to have a mechanic spend a ton of money on it that you will never recoup by selling the car. Reattas can be a reliable car but I usually tell people that if they can't do the work themselves it might not be the right car for them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted July 12, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted July 12, 2021 Thanks, Ronnie but I'm thinking that if I can get my mechanic to replace the lines (brakes and fuel) then if I can get a replacement (rebuilt?) master, I can obtain and replace the calipers. However, he tells me that some kind of oil substance (stop leak?) was put into the system that has ruined al the seals in the calipers as well as contaminating the entire system. Also to have him fix the leak in the power steering rack or lines, everything than requires a hoist, I could do the rest myself. As to the fuel system, I know the tank, sending unit and injectors were replaced about 20,000 miles ago but they would need to pull the tank and see if it's still usable. He tells me the #6 injector was caked with a fine rust so he cleaned it and it runs better but still not like it should. I tend to be an optimist but basically, I get the impression it would be a lot of work and cost much more than the car is worth, even if I do as much as I can myself - I'm soooo frustrated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 a: Dot 5 will do that. If did not have spares might be tempted to dump the Teves and go to a Riviera PB system. b: or start with a nice car... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 Yah, it is just a drip, drip, drip of issues😖 It sounds like everything is repairable and is mainly the fuel and brake systems. The individual parts are reasonably priced but enmass it can be daunting. Fuel tanks are available for reasonable money if needed, and you can likely get a complete plastic fuel line set from a 90 from one of our vendors as well as the brake unit. Calipers are readily available so the only item to fabricate is the rear brake line? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted July 13, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted July 13, 2021 Thanks, Ronnie but I'm thinking that if I can get the parts, I can replace the lines and calipers myself. However, he tells me that some kind of oil substance (stop leak?) was put into the system that has ruined al the seals in the calipers as well as contaminating the master but in truth, I think he's just worried about liability. I find it strange that he can't get any of the calipers to bleed but didn't think of just disconnecting the hoses to drain the system. Also, I'm betting the power steering leak is just one of the hoses and that's another thing I could do myself. He confessed that he only tried to bleed the system but even I know they need replacement. As to the fuel system, I know the tank, sending unit and injectors were replaced about 20,000 miles ago but it might be necessary to pull the tank and see if it's still usable which I think it would be with just a good flushing and possibly a lining, even just disconnecting the hose and flushing it out. He tells me the #3 injector was the cause of the rough running as it was caked with fine red/brown powdered rust so he cleaned it and it runs better but still not like it should so a new set of injectors is warranted after flushing out the tank of course. I tend to be an optimist but basically, I tend to believe it would cost much more than the car is worth if he did it as opposed to me just spending for parts and taking my time doing it myself as you suggested. By the way, I know your response was meant to goad me into doing the work myself, you'll be pleased to know it worked, I'm not giving up!😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogold Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 I just bled all the brakes (again) on my Reatta. Does the mechanic know the trick for the rear brakes? Use a stick to hold the brake pedal down, turn the key on, and open the bleeder screws one at a time. The brake pump motor will push the fluid out until you close the bleeder or run out of fluid, whichever comes first. On the front brakes I installed speed bleeders (looks like a regular bleeder except it has a check valve inside) you crack it open a 1/2 turn then pump the brake pedal. the check valve keeps air from being pulled back in when you let the foot off the brake. It works a lot better than my old hand vacuum pump. If the fluid still wont come out the front, maybe the flexible rubber brake line to the caliper is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 I've never heard of the speed bleeders before for bleeding brakes. Sounds like it would make it easy for one person. I still do it the old school way of having someone pump the brakes to build pressure and hold it while I open the bleeder to get air out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted July 13, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted July 13, 2021 9 hours ago, rogold said: I just bled all the brakes (again) on my Reatta. Does the mechanic know the trick for the rear brakes? Use a stick to hold the brake pedal down, turn the key on, and open the bleeder screws one at a time. The brake pump motor will push the fluid out until you close the bleeder or run out of fluid, whichever comes first. On the front brakes I installed speed bleeders (looks like a regular bleeder except it has a check valve inside) you crack it open a 1/2 turn then pump the brake pedal. the check valve keeps air from being pulled back in when you let the foot off the brake. It works a lot better than my old hand vacuum pump. If the fluid still wont come out the front, maybe the flexible rubber brake line to the caliper is bad. So you're saying I should pump the brakes until I feel a build up of pressure, use a prop of some kind to hold the pedal down and try bleeding the rear calipers? Then just bleed the fronts in the normal way, having a friend pumping the pedal while I open the bleeder? Although my mechanic claims to be familiar with the Teves system, I doubt he really is, doesn't trust it and that may be why he couldn't get any fluid out of any of the calipers, giving up. Like I said, I think he's not really familiar with the system and is afraid of liability if he tries and they fail. I'm pretty sure the master works as it was low when I got the car and, following instructions, filled it then pumped the brakes. Right off, the fluid level went back down so I filled it again and it stayed full with no leaks. I'm assuming I can get the tool you described for the job at any auto parts store. This is very helpful and encouraging, thanks very much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted July 13, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted July 13, 2021 18 hours ago, Padgett said: a: Dot 5 will do that. If did not have spares might be tempted to dump the Teves and go to a Riviera PB system. b: or start with a nice car... so you're thinking someone used dot 5 brake fluid instead of dot 3? If so, what's the big deal? He said he's saved what little fluid he could get for me and it's black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 Here is is the correct way to do it: How To Flush & Bleed Brakes on a Reatta 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 If I understood the comment about adding fluid twice upon initially servicing the car, it sounds as if it was not done correctly? If the pressure system was not discharged first it is likely it is now overfilled. The other conjecture is about incorrect fluid being added, dot 5, which is incompatible and will cause large issues. Ronnies instructions should be followed exactly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 The deal is that DOT3 and DOT5 do not mix. Unless the system is completely flushed (not easy with all of the passages in the Teves, bad things can happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogold Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 Here is a link to the speed bleeders I used on the Reatta. They fit both front and rear calipers but really not needed on the rear calipers since the brake pump motor is doing all the work. But compared to using my hand vacuum pump to bleed the front calipers I think it made the job a lot easier and I think I got some more air out of the line. The brake pedal seems less squishy and feels normal now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5G2SM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Since I usually have no helpers to pump the pedal I feel they are well worth the expense. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 13, 2021 Share Posted July 13, 2021 27 minutes ago, rogold said: Since I usually have no helpers to pump the pedal I feel they are well worth the expense. I agree. The price is right. My wife is use to the pump and hold it down procedure so don't think I need them. Thanks for posting the link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted July 17, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted July 17, 2021 On 7/13/2021 at 10:12 AM, Padgett said: The deal is that DOT3 and DOT5 do not mix. Unless the system is completely flushed (not easy with all of the passages in the Teves, bad things can happen. Obviously, I don't know that the system is contaminated, it's just that my mechanic was unable to get much when he tried to bleed the brakes and only one caliper was working. I'm thinking that if I simply replace the calipers, things should flow and I can purge whatever is in the system and fill it with fresh dot3. Then, judge by the feel of the brake pedal to see if things are working and carefully test them. As for the lines, there are no leaks so once I clean all the injectors, the cause of the rough running, I'll take it out on our dirt access road and repeatedly drive and apply the brakes. The car is still at the mechanic's so I think I'll ask him to service the tranny (drain, replace the filter and seal it back up) and replace the leaking hose to the steering rack. Then I'll have it towed one more time to bring it home so I can work on it myself, likely replace the lines next spring. I'm determined to get it back on the road, not as a daily driver but just an occasional pleasure drive and maybe a nearby show. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted July 17, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted July 17, 2021 On 7/13/2021 at 9:52 AM, 2seater said: If I understood the comment about adding fluid twice upon initially servicing the car, it sounds as if it was not done correctly? If the pressure system was not discharged first it is likely it is now overfilled. The other conjecture is about incorrect fluid being added, dot 5, which is incompatible and will cause large issues. Ronnies instructions should be followed exactly. Following directions, I depressed the brake pedal several times to release the pressure before refilling, then worked the brakes again. it drew down the fluid so I refilled to the correct level where it has stayed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 BTW there is a DOT 3 synthetic now with no silicone. https://www.amazon.com/Johnsens-2232-Premium-DOT-3-Brake/dp/B001DKQWDK/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted July 18, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted July 18, 2021 On 7/13/2021 at 1:21 PM, rogold said: Here is a link to the speed bleeders I used on the Reatta. They fit both front and rear calipers but really not needed on the rear calipers since the brake pump motor is doing all the work. But compared to using my hand vacuum pump to bleed the front calipers I think it made the job a lot easier and I think I got some more air out of the line. The brake pedal seems less squishy and feels normal now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5G2SM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Since I usually have no helpers to pump the pedal I feel they are well worth the expense. What makes them better than what comes with new calipers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogold Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 With normal bleeders, the old school way to pump brakes is to have a helper. One guy opens the bleeder , then tells the helper to push down on the pedal and keep it pushed down. Then the guy at the bleeder closes the bleeder by retightening it ( usually about a 1/4 turn ). You have to have the bleeder closed before the helper lets off the brake pedal, otherwise air is drawn back in thru the bleeder. Then the process is repeated until the fluid comes out clear with no air bubbles. If you use speed bleeders the check valve inside the speed bleeder will automatically close when the pedal is all the way depressed . So one guy can open the bleeder a 1/4 turn, then go pump the pedal himself. The speed bleeder will keep the air out while pumping. Then when you are done, just retighten the bleeder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 On 7/16/2021 at 9:53 PM, fun car guy said: Following directions, I depressed the brake pedal several times to release the pressure before refilling, then worked the brakes again. it drew down the fluid so I refilled to the correct level where it has stayed. I might be misunderstanding what you are saying. If you "worked the brakes" with the pump running and then refilled the reservoir when the fluid level dropped you didn't follow the instructions. You overfilled the reservoir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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