Jump to content

My '89 Reatta is still running rough!


Recommended Posts

fun car guy

Thanks, Phil.  I checked rock auto out and while their prices are quite reasonable, you have to factor in shipping both to you and your core to them.  I found Advance Auto has several grades from $88.00 with a ten dollar core (0nly 1 yr warranty) to around $150.00 with a $25.00 core but lifetime warranty.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
DAVES89

They have a 20% discount at Advance. The code is MAR23

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
Philbo

Advanced auto has really been stepping up their game on the internet sales and having competitive pricing. I think they are trying to compete more with amazon and rock auto on the internet business. Autopartswarehouse.com is also a good place to look too btw. There is 1AAuto.com as well.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
fun car guy
Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

They have a 20% discount at Advance. The code is MAR23

Thanks, Dave.  That means I can get the one with a lifetime warranty for nearly the price of the one yr. warranty!  However, I'm still hoping I didn't ruin mine.  How long is that discount good for?

Edited by fun car guy
info. request
Link to post
Share on other sites
Ronnie

Take it off and take it somewhere that can test it before connecting the battery again. We have a starter/alternator repair shop near me. You may have one to or the local parts store might be able to check it for you.

Link to post
Share on other sites
fun car guy

Thanks, Ronnie!  I was just going to reconnect the battery and see if it's still working.  Is there a risk of doing more damage if I do?  

Link to post
Share on other sites
Ronnie
1 hour ago, fun car guy said:

Thanks, Ronnie!  I was just going to reconnect the battery and see if it's still working.  Is there a risk of doing more damage if I do?  

In my opinion there is a good chance of damaging the electronics like the ECM or BCM. Connecting the battery backwards could have shorted the rectifier in the alternator possibly causing it to produce AC current instead of DC as is should.

Link to post
Share on other sites
fun car guy

Once again, thanks Ronnie.  I guess I should follow your advice, take the alternator out and have it tested.  Not the first time I've had to pay for my mistakes. Better safe than sorry!

Link to post
Share on other sites
Ronnie

If Advance or one of the other auto parts stores are able test it you won't have to pay for the testing.  If you take it to a place that can rebuild it they will probably charge you to test it if you don't let them repair it.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Padgett

Coming in late but

a) Always disconnect the negative lead first and reconnect last.

b) Will not deal with Rock Auto. Problem service is non-existant.

c) Might try partsgeek.com Usually have a $15 off coupon

d) most parts houses make their profit on shipping (nonreturnable) fees

e) negative terminal large wire is supposed to go to a bolt on the head under the Ignition Control Module.

f) electrical problems can feel like almost anything. I strongly recommend the later ignition module. If still have Magnavox, gap at .045" NOT .060.

g) ED01 is the TPS reading. At idle, foot off gas it shout read .38-.42v

f) Service manuals are available from Bishko but are often less on eBay. Make sure to get the Final Edition. 89 is beige.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
Philbo
2 hours ago, Padgett said:

Coming in late but

a) Always disconnect the negative lead first and reconnect last.

b) Will not deal with Rock Auto. Problem service is non-existant.

c) Might try partsgeek.com Usually have a $15 off coupon

d) most parts houses make their profit on shipping (nonreturnable) fees

e) negative terminal large wire is supposed to go to a bolt on the head under the Ignition Control Module.

f) electrical problems can feel like almost anything. I strongly recommend the later ignition module. If still have Magnavox, gap at .045" NOT .060.

g) ED01 is the TPS reading. At idle, foot off gas it shout read .38-.42v

f) Service manuals are available from Bishko but are often less on eBay. Make sure to get the Final Edition. 89 is beige.

Quick question, how do you know what edition the owner's manual is? I have a '90 manual but cant seem to find anything on the edition.  Thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites
fun car guy
On 3/28/2021 at 5:28 PM, DAVES89 said:

They have a 20% discount at Advance. The code is MAR23

Thanks very much, Dave!  I took the old alternator to Advance, they only had one available for 145.00 +core with a lifetime warranty.  When I gave the guy your discount code he said that's only applicable to online orders but he gave it to me anyway, wound up to be 108.00 inc tax.  I think I'm gonna switch from Autozone to Advance.  Thanks again!

Link to post
Share on other sites
Ronnie

If you make a purchase from Advance online they will email you discounts almost weekly. I buy a lot from them but usually only when I have a discount code. I buy online and pickup in the store to avoid shipping charges.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2seater
4 hours ago, Philbo said:

Quick question, how do you know what edition the owner's manual is? I have a '90 manual but cant seem to find anything on the edition.  Thanks

It says "Final Edition" on the cover. I have a blue '90 manual and it doesn't have that verbiage either, so it isn't.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Ronnie
11 minutes ago, 2seater said:

It says "Final Edition" on the cover. I have a blue '90 manual and it doesn't have that verbiage either, so it isn't.

I thought the same thing but I'm starting to wonder about that. I've looked on eBay and none the 1990-91 FSMs I found, new or used, have "Final Edition" on them. Only the '88-'89s do. Could we be mistaken about later model FSMs?

Link to post
Share on other sites
2seater

You may be correct about the later models. I would swear I have seen such but memory can be unreliable?

Link to post
Share on other sites
ship

I don't recall the 90 and 91 Riviera/Reatta FSMs' having any final edition.  I thought only the 88 had a final, and possibly the 89(?).

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
fun car guy
On 3/22/2021 at 5:34 PM, fun car guy said:

So the one you're talking about is ground and the other with just a clamp holding three cables is positive?   I sure hope I didn't fry the alternator too!!  As I said, I just ordered a factory repair manual so I won't have to bother you all so much.

Thanks!  

So, having discovered my old alternator was no longer grounded at the welcome advice of Ronnie, I bought a rebuilt one.  Jim is sending me a replacement positive terminal which I plan on grafting with the remaining cables on the car.  However, I see in my manual there are two main fuses, both 20 amp and I need to see if they're blown.  Are they located within the fuse block mounted on the right side floor inside of the car?  If not, where else should I look? I also see a big black box under the hood next to the air intake labeled "fusible links."  should I be concerned with that as well?

Link to post
Share on other sites
Ronnie

If you want to check the fusible links this photo shows where they are located. There aren't any in the fuse box as far as I know. Look at the back of your fuse box door for the locations of the fuses.

 

ground_junction_block-1.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites
Padgett

re Service manual: Final Edition is fat, Preliminary Edition is slender and just has the changes from the previous year.

 

Never noticed a change to the owner's manual.

Edited by Padgett
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...