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I don't know of any rebuild kits that include an aluminum gear and a steel crankarm. The aluminum gear isn't necessary but in a lot of rebuilds the crankarm is. I wouldn't buy a kit that doesn't include a new steel crankarm (sometimes called a bellcrank). Do it right the first time and be done with it.

Thanks for posting the video. I must admit, I'm not very impressed with how he did the job. It seems to me like he removed the motors the hard way. He accomplished his goal of getting the doors to open and close so I guess you could follow his instructions and do the same. Edit: BTW, using power tools on the screws in the motor was a really bad idea. They are easily broken even when you do it with hand tools.

. OK, Below is a video of the best learning, in 28 min, you will get this week.. I'm waiting for parts to do mine this week also............ I buying the kits with the Aluminum gear... Yes, you need to do both............ .

There are only 4 zirk fittings on the car. Yes the steering arms.

I’ve always been told starring when cold but not starring when hot has to do with something fuel related. Can’t remember what though.

I have been having trouble for years with my 1990 Reatta refusing to start when it is hot. I have scoured the owners journal for leads and have found many...and I have been attacking each possibility in turn (thank you all!). Having taken the side battery terminals off so many times, I thought I might have a risky connection at this point. So I tried copper washers. But the bolt threads weren't long enough to keep things tight. I have a dual terminal battery so I decided to I was going to use a side-to-top-post converter and put new ends on the cables (The larger cables weren't long enough to simply use the existing top posts.) So I proceeded to cut up the red rubber coating over the positive cable ends and discovered some pretty significant corrosion. I thought I would mention it here because from the outside it looked absolutely PERFECT. If you suspect this and just want to eliminate it as a potential problem, you don't have to cut it up (its a miracle I didn't cut my hands). You could just cut the cables below the rubber, of course. So far the car is starting fine...but we'll see...the saga continues...

Does a diagram exist showing where all the grease inserts are located for regreasing? I know there’s one on each ball joint but aside from that I’m not aware of where they all are.

Today went over to Bob's [my machinist friend's house] to do rear struts on the Regal. By prior agreement I was "the guy" doing the work with just a bit of help from Bob. From start to finish it was just 2 hours and much easier then when I did the Reatta. Two bolts on the bottom of the strut, one nut for the sway bar end link, and three nuts inside [with easy access] to the top of the strut. Then with a little assistance from gravity and a pry bat the strut drops out of the car. Reinstall is fairly easy as you push the strut up into place and put the three nuts on the top of the strut and slide in the bottom of the strut into the bracket and reattach the sway bar end link and you're done. Did I say the the strut comes with the strut mount attached and are preloaded with the spring? Well they are!

Thank you all. I've kinda determination that it has to be a valve body or something internal. Yes it does hold it's self in park. Gonna put the pan back on and take it in. Automatic transmissions are slightly out of my scope of work lol. I've only ever torn apart a 727 torque flite out if an old dart. This one's a years more advanced for sure.

I know this is likely not the case here, but long about half a century ago, I had a Chebby that cracked the valve body. No warning, just no go in any gear. I have no idea as to the cause, but it happened. I ASSume it lost line pressure due to the internal leak?

More good reasons to take it to a transmission guy. It could be something simple or it could be junk. You never know until you get it checked out. Does it go into park and hold the car as it should? If not, check the cable to make sure it's moving the shifter arm on the transmission to the correct position.

It didn't jerk or buck or anything. Very smooth. Just stopped working. No strange sounds. No grinding. When I have it in any forward gear it just keeps getting higher in rpm. And goes no where. Strangely, reverse kinda works. I did notice when it does ho into reverse, it seems to miss fire and run rougher.

Please explain. Was it jerking like it was going in and out of gear? Do you hear any grinding or other strange noises when you have it it gear and give it some gas? It would be odd for the transmission to go out at such low mileage unless it was abused and it doesn't sound like that is the case. I would take it to a reputable transmission shop and let them diagnose it before replacing it. You might get lucky and it just be something simple in the valve body causing the problem since you didn't find any parts in the pan.

Thanks for all the help. Turned out the problem was the shoulders that the bolt from the motor turns were smoothed out, so turning the motor did nothing. The arms were also stuck. I was able to work them loose with a long screwdriver. Driver side worked fine, but I went ahead and replaced both. Everything works terrific now. Next stop... the radio.

I have a 1990 reatta. Was driving to work two days ago and it was doing fine. Cruising at 75 most of the way. Got off the highway and Went to turn left and all of a sudden it acted like it had 7 neutrals.... from my previous experience this usually Indicates the transmission has failed catastrophically, internally. Here's what I've done 1) checked fluid level. It was fine. Fluid condition is good too. Still red in color. 2)no broken cv axels that I can tell. 3) nothing foreign on the trans pan. No shavings or chunks. Just your typical film. 4) the filter appears to be intact and no cracks or anywhere. Anything else I should check before I pull it and rebuild it? Has 85k miles. Any help is much appreciated!

Sorry all for the delay. My transmission in the old reatta I think finally gave up the ghost. Died on my way to work yesterday. So I'm debating if I even want to keep the car now. Just frustrating cuz of my luck with cars lately.

I have 4 servos in my parts bin and never replaced a one. Use the one off your parts car. Next week I will turn 331,000 miles on the Red of which 220,000 were put on by me.

Four bolts hold the bumper on. Remove those and the whole front comes off. The bumper is quite large, but not too heavy. You can strip the plastic parts off to get to the entire bumper. Get some aviation stripper and the top layer can be removed. I took mine to a polisher and they polished them. I only had the part that shows polished because the plastic covers the rest. Like I said before, I use "Whiter Diamond' polish to keep them shiny. Keep your and everyone else's hands off, as the oil from your fingers leaves marks on the bare metal.

I understand you wanting to save spare parts when you can but the cruise servo may be the most plentiful part you can get for a Reatta. Your time would be better spent picking up a few spares at a junk yard and testing them on the car before storing them so you know you have good ones.

Well, if you want to save it, you might try cutting the nipple off flush and tap the housing for a small hose nipple, but I have no idea if the housing is thick enough. Best of luck

You, can use any small air-tight tank to replace the vacuum tank.

I was afraid of that! I've got a parts car, I just hate to waste even spare parts if I can avoid it! may still try a hefty dose of JB weld around the base of the nipple, but depending on the material, it doesn't always form a good band with plastics.

Junkyard or a new one https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1990,reatta,3.8l+231cid+v6,1019911,electrical,cruise+control+servo,2652

The servo was used on multiple GM cars in multiple years. take a walk through a you pick yard and look for a lower mileage Buick. Once you get it off suck on the big hose nipple. If it holds while you have vacuum on it, it probably is good.