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  1. Today
  2. I wasn't clear in my explanation but Dave has it right. It isn't in place.
  3. Fingers crossed on the fuel pump. I have a Kent Moore gauge from eBay. The gauge itself could be replaced individually if that is all that is wrong but maybe something else has happened of the drain has gone awry?
  4. I hope my tester is bad and not the fuel pump. I thought I was getting a good tester when I bought the OTC brand but now I'm having my doubts. Maybe I'll get a Snap On next time if it's bad. You get what you pay for.
  5. Yeah, I misread it. I took him saying it being out meant it was bad.
  6. I bought my Snap On tester [the same tool # Kendall has] for cheap on e bay...
  7. I think 2seater is saying not having a tape deck plugged in throws a code, not that it doesn't work throws a code...
  8. Good instructions Dave. I used them today when I changed my filter. I found it helped to push the filter out of the bracket holding it once you have the lower connection loose. That allows you to twist it around making it easier to get at the upper (engine side) connection to loosen it. My '88 has a flexible hose on the engine side between the steel line going to the fuel rail and the filter. Wondering if all models are like that.
  9. Yesterday
  10. I'm embarrassed to say so but I don't think I had ever changed the fuel filter. I relied on my maintenance records but I think they were wrong. I didn't remember the exact procedure when I got under there. When I got it off it was filthy inside and out as if it had never been changed. This gauge thing is weird. It is a decent brand, OTC, and not very old but it doesn't seem to read correctly and now the pressure relief valve on the side has stopped working. Maybe all the heat from carrying it a couple of years in the trunk has screwed it up? Maybe I will kill two birds with one stone with this little adventure. Maybe I will find the clogged filter was causing the hesitation and I will find that my fuel pressure tester is bad. I'd rather find out it is bad in the garage than on the side of the road when I really need i t. I'm not going to attempt to drive the car until I get an accurate gauge and test the pressure. Should know more tomorrow morning sometime.
  11. Padgett

    Front end vibration?

    Bent wheel ? Would help to feel it. Does the tach bounce ?
  12. Unlikely to start well at 26psi, or start at all. Something very odd is going on and definitely verify that gauge. Could just switch out the gauge itself with something from the hardware store
  13. The trip to AutoZone didn't go as planned. Even though I called ahead of time to verify they had one, when I got there they told me it was already loaned out. They told me they will have one for me tomorrow morning and will call when it comes in. We'll see...
  14. Ronnie

    Front end vibration?

    Bought from one of the ROJs?
  15. pbtexan

    Front end vibration?

    Found some prices on autozone and rock auto. looks like 60-70 for the coil pack and 110 to 125 for ICM from standard or dephi or duralast.. acdelco about 50% more on each
  16. Fuel filter changed but the plot thickens. Now pressure comes up to 26 psi when I turn the key on but the engine starts right up and runs good. Cut the key off and start touching the battery with the jumper to the prime connector will bring pressure up to about 33 psi. Now I'm wondering about the tester even though it isn't too old. Well maybe two or three years old and it's lived it's life in the trunk of my Reatta. I don't think the fuel pump got worse while I was under the car changing the filter. 🙂 Going to the parts store to get a loaner and see what it says.
  17. I don't know if the fuel can be heard returning or not. Never tried that. One sure way is to crack the return fitting on the pressure regulator. If it leaks fuel below 40+psi on the gauge, then the regulator is suspect but I doubt that will happen. Remember the saving the Reatta story with bad fuel pump? It would sit and idle with the return line disconnected because it couldn't generate enough pressure to open the regulator. Yah, points, what are those🙄 I still have my old kit built engine analyzer that works but I forget what the numbers mean😂
  18. Yes that is correct. About three or four touches to the battery brings the pressure up from 32 to 42 psi and it will stay there for at least 15-20 minutes. Odd isn't it?
  19. I'm hoping my problem is being caused by the fuel filter. I checked my records and they show the filter was changed in 2009, two years after I got the car. I'm not sure that is correct since I have a new Purolator f33144 filter hanging from the back of my work bench that fits a Reatta. It's been hanging there so long I don't remember buying it. Maybe I forgot to put it on the Reatta but went ahead and updating my records thinking I would do it the next day or something. I hope my problem is that simple. A few minutes ago I connected the jumper to the battery to get the pump running and then listened to different parts of the fuel rail and lines to see if I could here any sounds of gas returning to the tank. I heard nothing with the pressure at 42 psi. Should I be able to hear gas being returned by the regulator? I don't envy you working on the tractor. I've not looked a points in several years. 🙂
  20. That is very peculiar indeed. So each stab at engaging the fuel pump causes a momentary surge which it holds? I am still guessing the filter for two reasons, it would act as flow reducer slowing pressure rise and second, it it relatively easy as a first step. The regulator doesn't usually act in that odd manner and is a very simple device. Just a spring calibrated at the base fuel pressure which should be 3bar or 43.5psi at sea level. A diaphragm that works with manifold vacuum to pull back against the spring reducing the gauge pressure to keep a constant pressure drop across the tip of the fuel injector. I know I always have another story but this just came up yesterday. My #1 son and I have been working on our neglected 1938 Allis Chalmers WC tractor. Tune up and needed maintenance work and it fired right up, sounding really good. Will idle down to 400 rpm. As soon as we decided to try moving it it would buck and eventually quit. Looking at various items, such as point gap and spark quality, it would fire right up again and sound cured. Long story short, the shutoff valve at the fuel tank was plugged almost solid even though the sediment bowl was full. It was so bad I was surprised it ran at all but the short intermissions would allow enough fuel to enter the carb and start and run normally for a short time.
  21. pbtexan

    Front end vibration?

    I DID mention it to the tire shop, but it was a Saturday morning appt at Discount tire, and they did not give me any feedback on issues.... not sure they tried very hard, since mounting and balancing is about the max of their work. I will make sure the Dealership gives the front end a good going over. And ALSO check out the plugs, wires, Coil pack and ICM. I think I bought an "experienced take off" coil pack from one of the ROJs to keep in my trunk for emergency, but imagine they would probably guide me to installing their new product. If it comes to coil pack and ICM... what should I be prepared to pay for parts?
  22. The oil sender will give an electrical warning intermittently without setting a code. That can be a hard one to figure out if you're not aware of it. Once it goes out (max pressure) like yours did it will set a code. My tape deck is bad but I've never got a code indicating that.
  23. We still haven't pulled ABS codes on the red car yet but it did get a new oil pressure sender today. The pressure indication was pinned at 255 but it now reads normally. 49psi at warm idle. It has been showing electrical problem pretty regularly. We cleared all ECM and BCM codes so will see what comes back. One is for the tape deck which we know is out but not sure of that will show the malfunction warning on the CRT? The engine is smooth and quiet. There just doesn't seem to be enough time to be as thorough as we should. We did the oil pressure sender at the same time we were reinstalling the reverser in #2 sons backhoe after we overhauled it last week.
  24. I was thinking fuel filter too but I didn't want to sway anyone's opinion. I just discovered that with the engine off I get 32 psi when I turn the key to run without starting. If I connect a jumper to the green prime connector and touch it to the battery and hold it, it causes the needle on the gauge to start quivering. If I start just touching the battery and release repeatedly, each time I touch the jumper to the battery the pressure will jump higher, eventually reaching about 42 psi and it will hold there. What do you make of that? Does that point to a clogged filter?
  25. I have seen a short term pressure rise like that after shutdown with a warm engine. If everything is sealed up, expansion from heat causes that. I would verify those results with another gauge but the unit illustrated is a quality brand. 32psi is awfully low if actual, especially if it doesn't snap right up with throttle input. Usually a bad regulator goes high rather than low. The behavior described is pretty much normal but it sounds very slow to respond, making my first guess a fuel filter. A system operating as it should have almost instant response. It's possible the pump is weak but I would start with the filter.
  26. 2seater

    Front end vibration?

    Did the tire place give the front end a once over when they installed new tires? Were they made aware of the intermittent vibration issue? Engine misfire could cause this issue as Ronnie mentioned but would have to be pretty severe. If at the shop for possible plugs and wires, check the coil pack and ICM closely.
  27. Last Friday I drove a total of 70 miles going to a cruise-in in another town. On the way there I had to go through an area that had a lot of stop lights close together and as luck would have it I had to stop at all of them. As I accelerated from the stop lights I noticed that a lot of the time my engine would hesitate like a carbureted engine would that had a bad spray pump. Today I started trying to find what was causing the hesitation when pulling away from a stop light. I think I see the problem but I'm not sure what is causing it. I started by checking fuel pressure. The engine was stone cold when I stuck my fuel pressure tester on the fuel rail. I turned the key to run and the fuel pressure jumped to 32 psi and held steady. Lower than I think is acceptable. Next I started the engine and fuel pressure was steady at at 32 psi. Blipping the throttle or pulling the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator results in the needle on the gauge rapidly bouncing between 32 and 36 psi. If I apply 12 volts to the green prime connector the pressure holds steady at 32 psi with or without the engine running. Now, here is the part that throws me for a loop. I decided to do a leak down test to see how long it would take for the pressure to drop. I ran the pump to make sure the pressure was at 32 psi the pump was putting out. After five minutes the pressure had increased to 40 psi. After ten minutes the pressure was at 42 psi. After 30 minutes the pressure had only dropped to 40 psi. That proved the pump isn't loosing pressure through a bad check valve or Pulsator or a hose connection to the pump. It also proves the injectors aren't leaking. All that is good. I just don't understand the pressure increasing like it did over time. It usually drops. Next with the tester connected and holding at 40 psi I removed the hose from the regulator. There was no change in the pressure. When I applied vacuum to the regulator the pressure dropped down to about 34-35 psi. When I released the vacuum the pressure jumped back to 40 psi. I didn't expect that. Keep in mind the pump wasn't running. I had the battery disconnected to make sure it couldn't run during any of the leak down test. I see at least three things that could cause this. A bad fuel pump, a bad regulator or a clogged fuel filter. What do you think my problem is? Any and all thoughts are welcomed. Engine running Pump off for 30 minutes
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