My '89 Reatta is still running rough!

[Padgett]

http://performanceresearch.us/padgett/cars/coils.htm

[2seater]

I went back to the beginning of this thread and you have the Magnavox style coil pack, so individual coils do not exist unless the whole assembly is changed to the later Delco style as suggested above. From what I have observed over time is the module fails more often on the Magnavox vs the Delco where the coils are more prone to failure. It’s up to you but if it is destined to go to a mechanic, you might want to have them tell you what it needs

[fun car guy]

On 6/11/2021 at 10:14 PM, 2seater said:

I went back to the beginning of this thread and you have the Magnavox style coil pack, so individual coils do not exist unless the whole assembly is changed to the later Delco style as suggested above. From what I have observed over time is the module fails more often on the Magnavox vs the Delco where the coils are more prone to failure. It’s up to you but if it is destined to go to a mechanic, you might want to have them tell you what it needs

Thanks, I'm not sure if I need new coils but suspect a broken engine mount.  Having it towed to the mechanic today, eager to find out.  Also eager to see it up on the hoist to check for rust.  I'll let everyone know what I find.

[Padgett]

BTW usually a broken motor mount will put a lot of strain on the upper torque arm. Is the bushing being pushed off center ?

[DAVES89]

6 hours ago, Padgett said:

BTW usually a broken motor mount will put a lot of strain on the upper torque arm. Is the bushing being pushed off center ?

Looks like a "dog bone. Top center of engine to radiator.

[fun car guy]

The car is currently at my mechanic's so I can't check that out but I've asked him to call when he has it up on the hoist so I'll be able to really look things over, check for and rust and take photos to share with you all.  My impression, from what I've been able to see is car with very little rust in spite of having been in Michigan since new.  It was thoroughly undercoated and I'm hoping my impressions are correct.  I've asked them to diagnose the shaking, weak brakes and the power steering leak as well as a thorough safety inspection. 

I know some of you with more experience and maybe a hoist of your own (or a friends) will accuse me of coping out but even though I can do many things on a car, changing a steering rack without a hoist and figuring out the Teves braking system are beyond me.  I just might be able to drive it this summer after all! 

[Padgett]

There was a GM manual just on the Teves MK II. 8.5x11 and not very thick. "Teves Antilock Brake System", GM Product Service Training 55205.02-1, November 1987.

[Ronnie]

On 6/17/2021 at 8:47 PM, fun car guy said:

The car is currently at my mechanic's so I can't check that out but I've asked him to call when he has it up on the hoist

Has he called yet?

[fun car guy]

No and I'm getting antsy.  However, he's always been a little slow.  Thanks for asking!  When he get's it up on the hoist I'll take some pics to share.

[fun car guy]

On 6/11/2021 at 9:50 PM, Padgett said:

http://performanceresearch.us/padgett/cars/coils.htm

Very informative, thanks.  My car still has the original Magnavox coils and all seem to spark, car always starts right away and doesn't stall, it just shakes as if one or more cylinders are not firing.  My money is still on a bad engine mount.

[fun car guy]

Finally heard from my mechanic and he gave me the bad news I expected.  only two of the brake calipers are working but he may be able to free them (new rotors and pads of course but I can do that myself), both the fuel and brake lines all badly corroded and need replacement (is stainless available?), the #3 injector is either not spraying or is stuck open, the steering rack is leaking and the rubber on all six engine mounts are shot though the cradle is fine!  He's estimating as much as four grand for everything - then, I need new tires of course.  So right now I'm thinking the brakes are the priority, it has to be safe regardless, also the bad injector should be replaced.  He also showed me the transmission pan is seeping so he wants to open it, drain the old fluid, replace the filter and seal it back up.  I've told him to look into the needed work on the brakes first and to call with his estimate, then go from there.

The car has 160,000 miles and I paid $1,600 but is almost entirely rust free, the interior is in great shape, everything works except the A/C and the frame is perfectly straight and sound so I'm going to make the car safe first, that way I can at least drive it around for a season or two and then decide if i want the steering rack and engine mounts replaced or take my lumps, sell it at a loss and move on. 

He tells me he has to lower the engine carriage to access the rack which makes it more expensive than usual but it's not a safety issue so I can simply keep filling the system since I'm not driving it a lot for now and keep a pan under it when in the garage.

So, what say ye?  I really like this thing even though it needs a lot of work.  If I go whole hog I'll have almost 6 grand into it when there's another, a '90 with only 86,000 miles offered for $5,500!

Thanks for reading.

[2seater]

I really depends on how much of the work you can do yourself. If you can do pads and rotors, new calipers aren't that far off, the front being easier than the rear. New front brake hoses too if replacing calipers. You can get a whole set of cleaned and tested injectors for not much money, or buy used take outs which are readily available, 19# injectors, EV1 electrical connector. Takeout Bosch type 3's are nice. I don't know of a stainless steel brake line set for a Reatta but replacing those rear steel brake and fuel lines is more tedious than difficult, especially of some of the components are repositioned for access. The parts have lasted for 32 years at this point and it doesn't sound like they are leaking, so exotic materials aren't really needed. The metric bubble flare on the brake lines is far easier than the SAE reverse flare IMHO. The rusted areas for the brake and fuel lines is generally toward the rear so cut all of them further forward and replace one at a time.

 

I haven't replace a steering rack but I have replaced the pressure line from the pump, and access isn't the best. I don't know if any of the sealers for power steering fluid will do anything temporarily or not? Six motor mounts?? Cradle bushings maybe?

Edited July 7, 2021 by 2seater

[fun car guy]

A good suggestion about replacing the lines toward the rear but he's telling me they're all so old and rusted that he thinks they will simply begin breaking when he gets into them so, in for a penny, in for a pound there and for safety's sake, I would prefer he replaced them entirely.  He didn't think stainless would be available and suggested coated steel instead. Obviously, he's worried about being responsible should the brakes fail.

As to the steering rack, I don't know if the leak is from the rack it's self or from one of the hoses - a good question to ask him.  

As far as the injectors are concerned, he said he would switch #3 for a neighbor and see if #3 works or not.  If not, that's an easy and inexpensive fix.  They were all replaced by a previous owner 20,000 miles ago.  

I wouldn't mess with the worn engine mounting bushings unless and until it's necessary to replace the rack.

Thanks for your input, Dave!

[Ronnie]

1 hour ago, fun car guy said:

I wouldn't mess with the worn engine mounting bushings unless and until it's necessary to replace the rack.

If the mounts are rusted out really bad the rack will be the least of your worries. Those mounts could be a time bomb that could get you killed. I post this photo pretty often to remind people what can happen.

 

 

This photo a photo of the mount on my car that shows what a good one should look like. As you can see, in the South we don't have to deal with rust.

 

[2seater]

None of the stuff mentioned above is a show stopper, but it is important to zero in on the items that are defective. Motor mounts and cradle mounts are different animals, with the cradle mounts being very important as pointed out above. Certainly your choice on how much to replace and what material for the brake and fuel lines. I only pointed out the areas that typically rust and from the three I have done, the lines run inside and outside the unibody frame, with a transition from inside to outside under the driver and the forward portion is almost always in good shape. I stagger cut the lines so the seams on the various tubes aren't across from each other. Simple matter to switch injectors or the electrical connector just to see if it is an electrical or a mechanical failure. A noid light on the suspect injector would tell the tale too. We had three power steering leaks on one of my sons cars, the pressure line to the rack, inexpensive and available on Rock Auto, the cooler ahead of the radiator, which got a small two tube aftermarket cooler substitute and the return hose that fed the cooler from the steering rack. Cut and splice in transmission hose. Good luck🙂

[fun car guy]

Actually, when I got the car in my garage last spring I noticed a steady stream coming from the cooler so I replaced that.  Then there was a much slower leak coming from the area of the steering rack, I'm hoping it's just one of the hoses.  Your experience in that issue is encouraging.

In my car, the actual motor mounts just need new bushings and bolts as the cradle isn't badly rusted at all.  However, if the steering rack it's self is leaking, I may leave them alone for now as it'd not a safety issue.

As for the brake and fuel lines, there are a couple seeping leaks in the fuel lines which could be spliced but the mechanic is worried that once he starts working on them they'll break and leak anyway so replacement is a good idea.

[fun car guy]

2 hours ago, Ronnie said:

If the mounts are rusted out really bad the rack will be the least of your worries. Those mounts could be a time bomb that could get you killed. I post this photo pretty often to remind people what can happen.

 

 

This photo a photo of the mount on my car that shows what a good one should look like. As you can see, in the South we don't have to deal with rust.

 

Nope, the mounts are solid and the cradle is good, just the bushings are bad and if he finds the rack is leaking, I'll have it replaced and if the engine has to be lowered to do it, replace the mounts as part of the job.  BTW, has anyone out there replaced a steering rack on a Reatta?  Was unbolting and lowering the engine necessary?

[Padgett]

Nope have had a spare rack since the last century. Not needed yet. BTW have not looked for a while but think for the calipers you need an 18mm box for the bolts on the back. Not common but Amazon has.

Edited July 7, 2021 by Padgett

[fun car guy]

2 hours ago, Padgett said:

Nope have had a spare rack since the last century. Not needed yet. BTW have not looked for a while but think for the calipers you need an 18mm box for the bolts on the back. Not common but Amazon has.

Thanks, that gives me hope that my rack is ok and it's just one of the hoses that have a slow leak, would save me a good amount!

[fun car guy]

BAD NEWS,

Just heard from the mechanic, The braking system is totally screwed, they can only get one caliper to work, needs all new lines, master is ruined because of some strange fluid that was put into the system previously which damaged all the seals.  Then there's the fuel system, full of rust because of condensation from being left outdoors for two years, also needs all new lines and of course, all the injectors are clogged with rust which means  it would need an entirely new fuel system so apparently all I have is a parts car. Should I take another chance with another Reatta?, at this point, I'm not so sure.  The car looks so good and is so rust free that I was fooled into thinking it could be repaired.  This has painfully pointed out that it's better to pay for a well maintained car than to take a chance with a project.