Jump to content

My '89 Reatta is still running rough!


fun car guy

Recommended Posts

On 8/1/2021 at 9:05 PM, DAVES89 said:

Fuel filter on the 1989 coupe is under the car at about where the left foot of the driver is. Kind of looks like an oil filter. The fuel line has a male end coupling that you remove with a wrench and then you unscrew the filter from the connector on the engine side of the filter.

Good instructions Dave. I used them today when I changed my filter. I found it helped to push the filter out of the bracket holding it once you have the lower connection loose. That allows you to twist it around making it easier to get at the upper (engine side) connection to loosen it. My '88 has a flexible hose on the engine side between the steel line going to the fuel rail and the filter. Wondering if all models are like that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Currently working with Jim Finn.  He's taught me a great deal about the Teves master cylinder and I believe we've determined the problem to be the pressure switch.  When I jump power directly to the switch nothing happens but when I do the same to the pump motor it works like a charm drawing fluid into the accumulator.  Hopefully, once I get that from him and install it, there will be plenty of pressure in the system and I'll be able to bleed the air out.  Then drive the car to a local gas station and fill the tank with ethanol free gas, get a set of new tires and I'll finally have it road worthy for a month or so before the weather changes and I'll put it to bed.  Next spring I'll clean the injectors and it'll run like it should.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good to hear you are making progress. Jim is a good person to have helping you.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tires: Today I like BFG Comp-2 and Continental DWS06 best. Always look for a single nylon cap ply, it prevents the tread from coming apart.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/5/2021 at 10:13 AM, Padgett said:

Tires: Today I like BFG Comp-2 and Continental DWS06 best. Always look for a single nylon cap ply, it prevents the tread from coming apart.

That's an interesting recommendation, thanks.  I haven't been shopping yet but was just thinking of a good steel belted radial more along the lines pf a performance tire since I won't be driving it in winter.  Do they still use nylon?

You seem to have considerable knowledge of tires.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/4/2021 at 10:10 PM, Ronnie said:

Good to hear you are making progress. Jim is a good person to have helping you.

Thanks Ronnie, I might have bailed if it weren't for you and the others encouraging me.  I plan on installing the replacement pressure switch this weekend, updates to follow.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Instructions for replacing the pressure switch are in the How-to guides if you need them.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is an extra nylon or polyester "cap" ply on top of the steel belts. It prevents the tread from sling pieces if the carcass fails.

 

bfgplies.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting, thanks.  I'll be shopping for new tires for my Reatta and Camry this fall. I just hope they won't cost me $1000.00 each!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/13/2021 at 10:35 PM, fun car guy said:

Thanks Ronnie, I might have bailed if it weren't for you and the others encouraging me.  I plan on installing the replacement pressure switch this weekend, updates to follow.

Found a deep well 36mm socket for an impact wrench so it's hardened steel, taking a while to get it down to fit on the pressure switch.  Jim mentioned that it might take some effort to unscrew it as they seemed to have over tightened them at the plant.  As I'm looking it I can see how it, the motor and accumulator are bolted to the master by just one bolt and worried about breaking them off!  Will give it a try with some WD40 but obviously, not gonna reef on it.  

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can get a helper to hold onto the pump assembly with one hand at the bottom and the accumulator at the top with the other hand to take some of the strain off the bolt while you loosen the pressure switch.   Just remember... righty tighty, lefty loosy. 🙂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Padgett said:

Unless talking about Pontiac wheels.

Or lugs on old Chrysler products. 🙂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haha, got it, thanks.  Actually it loosened without much force and I installed the replacement.  As soon as I turned on the key the little pump began to buzz and the fluid went down.  I knew right there I was golden.  Then I removed the left rear wheel and having propped a stick against the pedal, opened the bleeder.  It immediately shot out a steady stream of orange fluid, just like the sample my mechanic siphoned from the reservoir.  I let it flow until clear.  Then on to the right rear but the valve was messed up and I couldn't get it to open even with WD40 and channel locks.  I left it jacked up with a jack stand and soaked it hoping tomorrow will make a change.  Otherwise I have to replace the caliper.  That's not something I'm looking forward to as the E-brake is part of it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

Or lugs on old Chrysler products. 🙂

I'm curious as to what the OEM lugnuts look like.  So far, I'm missing one on each rear wheel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, fun car guy said:

I let it flow until clear.  Then on to the right rear but the valve was messed up and I couldn't get it to open

DON"T allow the brake fluid reservoir to run low during the brake flushing/bleeding process. To do so would cause you lots of headaches that you don't want.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, fun car guy said:

I'm curious as to what the OEM lugnuts look like.  So far, I'm missing one on each rear wheel.

Take one off and look at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I only asked because they look rather crude and I'm missing some.  It makes me think someone changed them for some reason.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rest assured, I'm being very careful not to let the master drain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, fun car guy said:

Haha, got it, thanks.  Actually it loosened without much force and I installed the replacement.  As soon as I turned on the key the little pump began to buzz and the fluid went down.  I knew right there I was golden.  Then I removed the left rear wheel and having propped a stick against the pedal, opened the bleeder.  It immediately shot out a steady stream of orange fluid, just like the sample my mechanic siphoned from the reservoir.  I let it flow until clear.  Then on to the right rear but the valve was messed up and I couldn't get it to open even with WD40 and channel locks.  I left it jacked up with a jack stand and soaked it hoping tomorrow will make a change.  Otherwise I have to replace the caliper.  That's not something I'm looking forward to as the E-brake is part of it.

I'm considering my options with the damaged bleeder.  I could drill through it, insert a thick nail and try to get some grip that way.   With your experience, have you any better ideas?  Of course, the bleeder is junk so I'll need to get some new ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...