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THE REATTA LOUNGE


Ronnie

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3 hours ago, Philbo said:

How much did they want for it?

$800 if memory serves. Includes tripod, wedge, a few eyepieces and a red dot type finder scope, probably 1x power. While it is motorized, it isn't a modern type in your target and the scope goes there type of machine. Not knowing how familiar you are with astronomical scopes I thought I should make it clear. PM if you would like contact information.

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15 hours ago, 2seater said:

$800 if memory serves. Includes tripod, wedge, a few eyepieces and a red dot type finder scope, probably 1x power. While it is motorized, it isn't a modern type in your target and the scope goes there type of machine. Not knowing how familiar you are with astronomical scopes I thought I should make it clear. PM if you would like contact information.

That isn't a bad deal, but unfortunately the astronomy budget is pretty slim these days lol. I had an older Meade scope that was similar function. Much smaller than that one but had a really great image. Was a fantastic scope for looking at planets.  I gave it to my brothet though. I have a cheaper Celestron Newtonian light bucket on an equatorial mount that does ok. 

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2 hours ago, Philbo said:

That isn't a bad deal, but unfortunately the astronomy budget is pretty slim these days lol. I had an older Meade scope that was similar function. Much smaller than that one but had a really great image. Was a fantastic scope for looking at planets.  I gave it to my brothet though. I have a cheaper Celestron Newtonian light bucket on an equatorial mount that does ok. 

I have a smaller Meade cassegrain too, 4.5" I think, so I have no real need either. Also have a 10" Optical Research newtonian, also equatorial mount but the size and weight isn't very easy to transport. I like the little Meade for sun, moon and planets too. Great long range spotter too. I am going to keep an eye on it and maybe after Christmas???

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This is a sort of trivia item, mildly interesting. I was searching the Buick E Body 86-92 parts book and stumbled across the ignition system breakdown over these model years. According to the parts book, GM offered a Delco style three coil ignition on the 3.8 engine in 86 & 87 (LG3 & LC3) before it became the 3800, and they did so in parallel with the Magnavox style for the same time period. It appears the ICM portion of the ignition is different as there is no separate base plate, and the coils mounted to the module with studs that came from below with nuts on top to secure the coils. Three of the studs were double ended with the lower end extended to function as the mounting point to the engine bracket. The coils themselves carry the same part number as the later models so maybe useful for junkyard hunting? According to the parts book, only the Magnavox was offered, and the Delco style was dropped completely, for the 3800 LN3, 88-90 in the Buick E Body? The modern version of the Delco ignition reappeared with the L27 Tuned Port engine in 91 in the E Body.

 

The only reason I mention the specific car lines is the 3.8/3800 engines had several years of parallel use in different car lines. The Tuned Port L27 was first installed in the 1990 Buick Regal, not the Riv or Reatta?

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Makes sense. The Delco is hotter and The GN/GNX was sorta but not really, oh yeah into drag racing

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As noted in a prior post, I changed out my summer tire/wheels for winter tire/wheels. This got me to thinking about what appears to be superior torsional rigidity of the Reatta Coupes. For instance, as anyone who changes out a tire/wheel package knows, when you jack up the car, you can usually jack up the front by using the uni-body contact point right behind the front wheel, and the whole car is lifted such that you can change both front and rear tire/wheel packages on the same side with a single jack. 

Just wondering if the same maneuver can be done with a Reatta Convertible vis-a-vis its torsional rigidity?

 

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7 hours ago, Ron Walker said:

As noted in a prior post, I changed out my summer tire/wheels for winter tire/wheels. This got me to thinking about what appears to be superior torsional rigidity of the Reatta Coupes. For instance, as anyone who changes out a tire/wheel package knows, when you jack up the car, you can usually jack up the front by using the uni-body contact point right behind the front wheel, and the whole car is lifted such that you can change both front and rear tire/wheel packages on the same side with a single jack. 

Just wondering if the same maneuver can be done with a Reatta Convertible vis-a-vis its torsional rigidity?

 

I have...

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Here's something I'll bet you have never heard of before. My wife asked me to take her minivan to the car wash and be sure to get the "soft touch" wash which is the rotating cloth strips that clean your car. I read the warnings about not being responsible for loos items, antennas, mirrors etc so I folded the mirrors in and proceeded to get my car washed. About halfway through the cycle I felt droplets of water and thinking that the sunroof was just cracked open, pressed the button to close it [it was closed]. In the process I looked over my right shoulder and saw that somehow the brush had activated the sliding passenger door and now the door was completely open and the brush had come partly into the cabin but wanted to leave but couldn't. It was hooked on the inside edge of the door and pulled it completely off and finished washing the car [final rinse] spraying water into the cabin.

I quickly went outside the car and was able to get the door somewhat in place , enough to get to the store and explain what happened. As this was a "big box" retailer they directed me to the main store and ask for the manager which I did. Fortunately they also had an automotive repair area and I was able to bring the car in so the manager could fill out an accident report and take pictures. I was able to get the door completely situated in the track, closed and then we duck taped the entire door so it would be air tight and not come off.

Tomorrow I go for estimates and hope we can get the repairs done before I leave for Texas. The retailer has assured me that their insurance company will be contacting me and that they will pay the claim. I am pretty sure that will happen, but we will see. I am also contacting my company as well.

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WOW, now that is really strange.  Hope the insurance company pays bigtime.  One thing you did not mention, though...what and how did you tell your wife about what happened and more importantly what was her reaction to your "blunder".

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We never use a car wash that has the spinning brushes anymore. We learned our lesson when Kat had one of them break off the solid antenna mast on her '86 Chevy Cavalier and then whipped the car with it. Oddly enough it didn't do much damage that I couldn't buff out of the clear coat so it looked satisfactory for a car it's age. That car wash was behind a Shell station and they had two or three signs saying they wouldn't be responsible for that kind of damage like antennas being broke as you drove around the building and into the car wash. It didn't mention anything about taking doors off the track so they would probably be responsible for that.  Now we only use a car wash that covers the vehicle with foamy soap and then blasts it off with high pressure water. I always wash the Reatta by hand or just wipe it down with detailing spray.

 

I hope everything turns out good for you Dave.

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I rarely use a car wash, but like Ronnie, when I do, I only use the brushless/no touch high pressure. However, one of the downsides to the brushless is that there seems to be a hazy film that remains. When I can, I use a chamois in the car wash parking lot which usually removes the film. The film is probably more evident on my black Avalanche.

Most often, I wash my vehicles by hand. There seems to be something soothing about the process. The Reatta is a dream to hand wash - the Avalanche is a b _ _ _ h, probably like Daves89 van. Gotta use an elevated platform to wash the roof and other parts outta reach.

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20 hours ago, Ron Walker said:

I use a chamois in the car wash parking lot which usually removes the film. The film is probably more evident on my black Avalanche.

I do the same. I have a dark gray Equinox that looks black under some light conditions. Most of the time I take my battery powered leaf blower with me to get most of the water off before using the chamois cloth. It makes it easier to get water off the top and makes the whole process go faster.

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I use this California squeegee to get the excess water off after washing and then a shamie.

One Pass Classic 12" Waterblade Silicone T-Bar Squeegee Purple…

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1 hour ago, ship said:

I use this California squeegee to get the excess water off after washing and then a shamie.

One Pass Classic 12" Waterblade Silicone T-Bar Squeegee Purple…

I've never tried one of those. Is it flexible so it conforms to the curves of body panels?

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The car wash denied my claim stating it had to be a defect in the car as 100's of cars go through every day. I called my insurance company and it is a comprehensive claim with a $100.oo deductible. Problem now is the shops are busy.

 

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1 hour ago, Ronnie said:

I've never tried one of those. Is it flexible so it conforms to the curves of body panels?

Re: California Squeegee....Its pretty flexible.  It "flaps" back and forth.  You use it kinda like you would use a paint brush.  One does not have to push down hard to remove excess water.  I start at the roof, then down the glass front to back and each side, then hood, trunk, and finally body sides.

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