DPS.01 Posted March 10, 2023 Share Posted March 10, 2023 (edited) On 3/8/2023 at 6:51 PM, DPS.01 said: the OEM strut body can be successfully threaded, the problem would be solved. i spoke with a local machinist who took independent measurements. should have the finished product in several days if everything go well. Edited March 10, 2023 by DPS.01 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alchemist Posted March 11, 2023 Share Posted March 11, 2023 (edited) The next item to tackle is the upper mount. With the rod end being shorter to the shoulder, it does not penetrate through the stacked bushing and retainer plate package. Simply drilling out the sleeve in the lower plate will cause problems, as when installed, it creates a solid bridge between itself and the upper plate and allows the strut nut to be properly torqued. A sleeve nut, such as shown, might work, but the snout of the lower plate would need to be cut short so the barrel of the nut jams against it. Could use a 25mm coupler nut and a hex bolt as shown, but the poly sleeve (loose insert in the rubber bushing) would need to be left out and the spacer snout cut short. Now the coupler would act as the spacer. I worry about the degrees of freedom in a multi piece solution. Just getting this out there for debate and discussion. As a community I know we can find a solution. Edited March 11, 2023 by alchemist 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 11, 2023 Share Posted March 11, 2023 I haven't had a rear strut apart in many years, but isn't there a cup that sits on the top of the strut rod that supports the lower cushion? It would be between the strut rod and the cushion in the lower assembly shown. If I follow your description, the combination of the top bolt and the threads on the top of the strut rod take up more than the available room in the coupling nut? That is an interesting sleeve nut. What is it designed for? The sleeve nut would engage the strut rod directly which would seem most similar to the original assembly with just the single threaded interface. Is the ability to keep the rod from rotating when torquing to top nut a concern? I know that allen socket or whatever it is in the top of the rod is very frustrating, particularly after some use. It would be very helpful to have two flats on the top of the rod so it can be held with an open end wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS.01 Posted March 11, 2023 Share Posted March 11, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, alchemist said: Could use a 25mm coupler nut and a hex bolt as shown Plan to repeat the Cardone Allante retrofit upper extension using a modified coupling that fits into the underside of the metal portion of the OEM upper dust cover mount. This moves the perch up ~1.25 -1.5” photo below shows the differential between OEM and cartridge insert threads. Placement of the pistons side by side show a close approximation of the final extended length of the OEM body with the strut cartridge installed. The following photo sequence shows the “Allante Cardone” mock up and final installation. Cardone assembly installed on car. When the machining is completed on the OEM body to accept the gland nut, will have a better idea. this will limit the amount of available piston travel due to compression for installation. unknown if this presents a problem or not. Edited March 11, 2023 by DPS.01 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alchemist Posted March 12, 2023 Share Posted March 12, 2023 Not to gloat, but darn am I glad I snagged the last known set of Monroe 71801 air struts from the Riviera, that fit the Reatta. I have also started to amass other parts that are unique to the Reatta or in jeopardy of being discontinued. As I have been telling my wife, I am finally spending my First Communion money. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alchemist Posted March 12, 2023 Share Posted March 12, 2023 1 hour ago, DPS.01 said: When the machining is completed on the OEM body to accept the gland nut, will have a better idea. this will limit the amount of available piston travel due to compression for installation. unknown if this presents a problem or not. Agreed, that setup reduces the 7" of travel by about 2". The insert strut has about 0.375" of extra travel, so that helps. I will keep working on the alternate that puts the hex coupler inside the lower bushing. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS.01 Posted March 12, 2023 Share Posted March 12, 2023 1 hour ago, alchemist said: darn am I glad I snagged the last known set of Monroe 71801 …but then, where is the challenge? 😝 here is something to ponder 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 12, 2023 Share Posted March 12, 2023 1 minute ago, DPS.01 said: …but then, where is the challenge? 😝 here is something to ponder Extension or sleeve nut, nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alchemist Posted March 12, 2023 Share Posted March 12, 2023 9 hours ago, DPS.01 said: …but then, where is the challenge? 😝 here is something to ponder Yes, those would be perfect. Have you been able to find them in M16-2.0? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS.01 Posted March 12, 2023 Share Posted March 12, 2023 2 hours ago, alchemist said: Have you been able to find them in M16-2.0? no. not yet. may have to be a custom / special order piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 12, 2023 Share Posted March 12, 2023 M16 2 30mm 22mm ASTM A582 90202A118 25.41 21.72 These are in McMaster. Round couplings, 30mm-50mm long,,, 22mm o.d. Stainless steel. I don't know if these are appropriate or not. This is what I originally imagined but with a hex nut welded on top similar the above example or the top down bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alchemist Posted March 12, 2023 Share Posted March 12, 2023 (edited) 36 minutes ago, 2seater said: M16 2 30mm 22mm ASTM A582 90202A118 25.41 21.72 These are in McMaster. Round couplings, 30mm-50mm long,,, 22mm o.d. Stainless steel. I don't know if these are appropriate or not. This is what I originally imagined but with a hex nut welded on top similar the above example or the top down bolt. Saw those, they are 18-8 or 304 stainless. Similar to a grade 1 bolt in strength so around 35 ksi yield. Not certain the grade of the OEM strut nut, but thinking it is at least grade 5, so almost three time stronger at ~90 ksi yield. The right length hex coupler (have found them in class 6) with a grade 8 shoulder bolt might be able to accomplish the same thing. Edited March 12, 2023 by alchemist 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 12, 2023 Share Posted March 12, 2023 4 hours ago, alchemist said: Saw those, they are 18-8 or 304 stainless. Similar to a grade 1 bolt in strength so around 35 ksi yield. Not certain the grade of the OEM strut nut, but thinking it is at least grade 5, so almost three time stronger at ~90 ksi yield. The right length hex coupler (have found them in class 6) with a grade 8 shoulder bolt might be able to accomplish the same thing. I imagined you likely had come across them but didn't know if that specification was appropriate or not? I agree grade five or better, or the metric equivalent 8.8 ?? I was surprised they were only available in stainless😖 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alchemist Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 (edited) 23 minutes ago, 2seater said: I imagined you likely had come across them but didn't know if that specification was appropriate or not? I agree grade five or better, or the metric equivalent 8.8 ?? I was surprised they were only available in stainless😖 The sleeve nut would be relatively easy to make. Start with 4140 hex stock, drill and tap the ID threads, turn down most of the outside to a proper sized diameter to leave a hex head on the top and heat treat to ~35 HRC (the last part I could take care of, I know some folks...). On a bar stock feeder, this would be easy to make. Wish I had one of those. There is a place in Juneau that specializes items such as this, I will make a model and send it to them. The challenge these days is that machine shops are so busy. Edited March 13, 2023 by alchemist 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alchemist Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 On 3/11/2023 at 4:38 PM, 2seater said: I haven't had a rear strut apart in many years, but isn't there a cup that sits on the top of the strut rod that supports the lower cushion? It would be between the strut rod and the cushion in the lower assembly shown. I have never had a rear strut out, so I am at a disadvantage in determining stack-up. No way in heck I am taking one out just for the fun of it, so if anyone has a picture of all the components and how they stack up, that would be most helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 51 minutes ago, alchemist said: if anyone has a picture of all the components and how they stack up, that would be most helpful. These are some photos I took when I had mine off. The red rubber part locks the dust guard in place on mine. Not sure if that is true on all models. Note, the top rubber busing isn't shown in the last two photos. I think I left it in place on the top of the mount. Hope this helps. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS.01 Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 (edited) @ronnie: you beat me to it… the yellow paper in the photo above shows where the upper strut mount on the vehicle would be. Edited March 13, 2023 by DPS.01 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 This view shows how the red rubber part locks into the notch in the steel part (blue arrow) to hold the dust guard in place. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 Can never get too many photos. 🙂 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted March 13, 2023 Share Posted March 13, 2023 Nice photos, both of you. The cup shaped part that sits against the splash guard is a combination lower washer and bump stop, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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