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Options for replacing rear struts needed.


lukehemstreet

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13 hours ago, DPS.01 said:

Monroe thread size is 16mm; 2.0mm pitch. 

KYB thread size is 16mm; 1.5mm pitch. 

For reference, OEM is 16mm; 2.0mm pitch. 

Not sure what the thread size is for others that are out there. 
Looking like there is not a one size fits all retrofit solution.
 

 

Good to know, thank you.  The threads on the sleeve nuts will be tapped so that is an easy alternate to offer.  It appears the Monroe inserts are now discontinued as well, but the KYB's are readily available.  Perhaps those should be the design basis.

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Nicely done👍

 

Just spitballin' 

I realize the goal is to refurbish O.E. strut housings, either direct threading or cut and weld a threaded adapter. Hopefully there is enough raw material floating around to produce a supply on an exchange basis. If that proves to be a problem, could a tube be fabricated as a substitute for the original? It would need a bottom support for the strut cartridge, but only the lower O.D would need to approximate the O.E. housing for clamping in the hub casting. The clamp on sway bar mount would be added and either the top of the tube threaded as in the above video or add the stand alone gland nut adapter. Only length and lower O.D. would seem to be the critical dimensions. 

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Great video. I watched every minute and enjoyed it. Excellent machine work.

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44 minutes ago, 2seater said:

Nicely done👍

 

Just spitballin' 

I realize the goal is to refurbish O.E. strut housings, either direct threading or cut and weld a threaded adapter. Hopefully there is enough raw material floating around to produce a supply on an exchange basis. If that proves to be a problem, could a tube be fabricated as a substitute for the original? It would need a bottom support for the strut cartridge, but only the lower O.D would need to approximate the O.E. housing for clamping in the hub casting. The clamp on sway bar mount would be added and either the top of the tube threaded as in the above video or add the stand alone gland nut adapter. Only length and lower O.D. would seem to be the critical dimensions. 

Yes, that could certainly be done, anything is possible with the right amount of time and money.  The tubing is readily available in the proper size (OEM strut dimensions).  A cap would need to be welded on one end and the dimple for the knuckle pinch bolt added.  The sway bar attachment bracket would need to be fabricated and welded in place as well.  The open end could be cut and threaded to the the proper length for the gland nut that comes with the insert strut.

 

Still need the sleeve nut on the top mount to correct the short thread length up there.

 

I finally got some traction on the sleeve nut with a guy I used to work with that opened his own machine shop that specializes in stuff like this.

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2 hours ago, Ronnie said:

Excellent machine work

He did do a great job…

I am completely happy with the end result. 

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1 hour ago, DPS.01 said:

I am completely happy with the end result. 

How did the final install go and how is the suspension performance with the setup?  What was the final method for the top mount?

Edited by alchemist
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3 hours ago, alchemist said:

How did the final install go

@alchemist:

they are still on the workbench…

been struggling with the brakes… may need to solicit some assistance on that in another thread. 
 

I plan on extending the threaded portion using a coupler and threaded rod at this point similar as I did with the “Allante-Cardone” retrofit that is on the car now.  This setup has a fairly harsh ride
 

I suspect that cartridge insert may have a harsher ride than OEM due to the valving of the cartridge. (difference in amount of weight it is designed to control) … time will tell. 

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5 hours ago, Alby505 said:

 

I saw this video some time ago, at least I think so. It is certainly another creative way to solve the problem. Interesting customization as well. 

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On 4/9/2023 at 9:28 AM, Alby505 said:

 

Interesting to say the least.  No dent for the pinch bolt to have a positive mechanical lock and nearly zero compliance in the upper mount.  My former co-worker should have a quote back to me today on the sleeve nut.  Someone on a FB Reatta discussion group may donate/sell a bad set of struts to me for starters.

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Edit: Monroe 71662

 

Maybe the place I saw the above video was from one of our contributors earlier in this thread😖 I know he mentioned a Volvo strut?? I happened across a Facebook post with a similar way of producing a substitute but it used a 2000 Regal rear strut. Same sort of bracket removal but the specs do closely match the Reatta dimensions: Body length 15.03" and collapsed oal of 15.53", Extended length of 23.09 and 7.56" of travel. Not trying to muddy this thread, as a matter of fact I purchased a pair of KYB's, but I wanted to keep all similar info in a single thread🤞

Edited by 2seater
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I found some Monroe 71801s on FB marketplace, what's the deal with fitting them on the Reatta? I know they're Riviera parts, but

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52 minutes ago, vivi said:

I found some Monroe 71801s on FB marketplace, what's the deal with fitting them on the Reatta? I know they're Riviera parts, but

It is the same basic strut, but with a metal cap in place of the bellows and an air bladder banded in place.  Could use them as-is with a very mild inflation, or take the air bladder and cap off and use the original plastic bellow.  If they are new and available, they are worth buying.

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Stupid idea maybe but 93 Allante used the bottom bolt. Wonder if lower control arms fit...

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15 minutes ago, Padgett said:

Stupid idea maybe but 93 Allante used the bottom bolt. Wonder if lower control arms fit...

If I understood the diagram of the 93-rear suspension in this thread, it is a double A arm design. Even if it fit, the shock being substituted for the strut, while workable, doesn't have the same structural capacity. Maybe I am off base, but all the strut designs I see are rigidly held in place where they attach to the suspension.

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On 4/13/2023 at 9:45 AM, Padgett said:

errr rigidly held by a pinch bolt ?

The strut body is inserted into a close fitting socket in the wheel hub and the pinch bolt pulls the socket in tight against the strut housing. If the strut can pivot on the lower end and the wheel hub has another pivot point, there would be nothing to control the camber throughout the wheel travel.

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I now have quotes back for both components, the weld adapter and the sleeve nut.  Wanted to put the business case out there as the investment (on my behalf) would be substantial.

 

Selling price for a complete set of adapters (which would include two weld adapters and two sleeve nuts) would be $188.22 plus shipping.  With this option, people would purchase their own KYB strut inserts and use their existing struts and own labor to modify.

 

If I could get four old struts to start with, I could sell completed sets.  The price for a complete set of struts, including inserts, would be $485 plus shipping and would require return of the struts replaced to keep the supply line going.

 

The above scenario is for ordering 50 pieces each of the weld adapter and sleeve nut from my vendor at one time.  That equates to $4500 out of pocket up front for me, so I want to make sure the demand would be there.

 

Details on the components:  Weld adapter would be made from 1026 steel so it can be welded to the strut housing without any pre or post-weld heating.  The sleeve nut would be 4140 austempered to 40 HRC.  The heat treatment is free as I know I guy (me) who works for a heat treatment company and can get that done by sliding them in with something else.

 

Thoughts?  Criticism?  Anyone in WI that can help get a set of seed struts to start with?

Edited by alchemist
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The price is good in my opinion. I only have need of one complete set initially, possibly a couple more later. I certainly appreciate the hard work expended in this quest👍

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