fun car guy Posted September 29, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 29, 2021 1 hour ago, DAVES89 said: Go to Amazon and type in "Bubble flaring tool" and you will some for well under $50.00 I did and found several for half of that! I don't know what the local auto parts guys are smoking but I sure appreciate your advice Dave. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 This is the tool I use and a screen shot of the fittings I order in bulk to repair and couple flared lines together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philbo Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 4 hours ago, Ronnie said: If you did that I would be afraid to ride in that car. No disrespect intended. I'm just afraid of going to far outside the norm on brake repairs. Copper water lines operate at about 60 psi and brake lines operate at 1000 psi or more. Solder joints were never intended to hold that much pressure. Just my 2 cents. Sound advice from Ronnie. Out of curiosity I looked up what a solder joint strength would be and found this graph from EngineeringToolbox.com. Looks like the best you will doo is about 500psi, which is sadly not enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted September 30, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 30, 2021 went to Amazon, found a highly recommended kit and ordered it, $30.00. I'm determined to get my brakes fixed before it get's cold. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philbo Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Just now, fun car guy said: went to Amazon, found a highly recommended kit and ordered it, $30.00. I'm determined to get my brakes fixed before it get's cold. You got this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Interesting graph but suspect it depends on the type of joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philbo Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 31 minutes ago, Padgett said: Interesting graph but suspect it depends on the type of joint. Yeah probably so. I was mostly just looking for a general idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Are many types. A butt joint will depend on the strength of the solder. A lap or twisted joint is much stronger. I was taught to make a strong mechanical joint first, then solder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted October 1, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted October 1, 2021 23 hours ago, Philbo said: You got this! Yes but only with the help and support of all you guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted October 12, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted October 12, 2021 So I finally got tired of forcing the connection apart and cut the metal line as close as possible underneath, removed the clip and that's done. However, now I'm trying to straighten the tubing so the fitting will slide on back far enough to flare the end and assemble it. Only problem is the fitting is just deep enough that when I try to thread it on the tubing it won't tolerate even the slightest bend. I'm now thinking that, since it's close to sliding through, I might get the fitting drilled out just a little because I sure as hell will never be able to straighten the metal tubing perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted October 12, 2021 Share Posted October 12, 2021 Wow, you certainly are going the extra mile on this one. You can probably open up the side of the fitting away from the flared end a bit but I don't think it would be a good idea to drill straight through. The end that contacts the backside of the flare on the tube has to be a close fit to put the force close to the tube diameter on the flare otherwise the tube nut will tend to be forced open. Is that a new m10x1.0mm bubble flare tube nut? It looks about right but there is just enough out of focus to tell. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted October 12, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted October 12, 2021 Well, once again frustration got the better of me. I finally managed to get a good bubble flare on the end and have worked the lower fitting up to it. It took several tries as the tubing kept sliding down instead of being forced to flare until I put a wrench on the block to get it really tight. Yes, unfortunately, the connection between the tubing and the hose simply would not break free so I had to cut the tubing just below the fitting. The right side loosened easily so it's just a matter of putting everything together. This part of the project has been a challenge but I'm finally seeing light at the end of the tunnel. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now