fun car guy Posted September 14, 2021 Share Posted September 14, 2021 My Reatta is 32 years old so this connection has never been opened since it was built. Naturally, there's corrosion making it almost impossible to remove the old hose. I've wrapped it with cloth and soaked it with power blaster but it just won't budge, any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philbo Posted September 15, 2021 Share Posted September 15, 2021 Which connection are you talking about exactly? I am assuming you mean the soft hose that goes to the caliper, where it connects to the hard line? If it is not near anything sensitive to heat, you could try heating it up some with a torch. You may just have to work a it some. PB blast it, pry on it a little, then heat, then more PB blast, then more prying, repeat until it comes apart. It should eventually loosen up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted September 15, 2021 Share Posted September 15, 2021 I imagine the connection is as Philbo describes, probably related to the flare nut wrench question. Sometimes even if the fitting can be loosened it is seized to the steel tubing, in which case it will simply twist off. you may be forced to replace or splice the steel line if judicious heat/cold wet rag and penetrant fails. I have been meaning to mix up some of the home brew penetrant and try it myself: 50% ATF and 50% Acetone. Of course that would be flammable as most penetrants are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philbo Posted September 15, 2021 Share Posted September 15, 2021 10 hours ago, 2seater said: Sometimes even if the fitting can be loosened it is seized to the steel tubing, in which case it will simply twist off Yes this is certainly a pitfall. You have to look carefully for that. You can spray some PB in between the tube and the fitting (guessing already been done) then while the fitting is still tight, take the tubing part and gently pry on it in a circular motion to break it free from the fitting. Do not physically bend the tubing any more than absolutely necessary. For stuff that is rusted/stuck together in general, you typically take the approach of applying enough force to break it free. But do not underestimate the effectiveness of fatigue in these situations. Applying less force with repetition will often eventually break it free. The trick is getting enough force to fatigue the stuck joint, but not so much that you fatigue the line itself or round off the hex on the fitting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted September 15, 2021 Share Posted September 15, 2021 Key is to get it to move a litle in either direction. Then move back. Keep at it and slowly the amount you can move will increase. Key is not to use destructive force, just keep worrying it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted September 15, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 15, 2021 Thanks to all! The idea of cutting the old hose just short of the connection so that a 6-point socket can be used on top is an excellent one but I still have to be carful not to damage the metal tubing! Also, not forcing too much and rounding things off but just working it back and forth over time if I can get it to move at all but if necessary, it's good to know the tubing can be spliced. However, the use of a torch would clearly start a fire since the metal tube is likely full of brake fluid, something I clearly don't want! I still have the right side caliper to replace and hope I don't run into the same situation again. Love this site, I'll keep you all posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 15, 2021 Share Posted September 15, 2021 This is another place where tubing wrenches are your friend. If you haven't done so remove the spring clip on the hose so you can move it around in the bracket to get to the fittings better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted September 15, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 15, 2021 Thanks Ronnie, I didn't even know that was removable, thought it part of the back plate! I think that, and cutting off the old hose so I can get a socket on the fitting should help a lot. The clip is pretty rusty of course but I think a few taps with a hammer will free it so I can pull it out but meanwhile, I'll keep soaking it. Don't know what I would do without you guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted September 15, 2021 Share Posted September 15, 2021 I will say this about you... Reading about your Reatta issues is the cheapest form of entertainment I know of! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 15, 2021 Share Posted September 15, 2021 1 hour ago, fun car guy said: The clip is pretty rusty of course but I think a few taps with a hammer will free it so I can pull it out Not sure a hammer is the right tool for the job but whatever works... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted September 17, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 17, 2021 Haha, thanks Dave. You have to realize that I'm no mechanic even though I've done simple things like oil changes and brake pads. Also, working on a car this old in the salt belt presents a challenge. Glad you find my questions amusing though.😏 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted September 17, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 17, 2021 On 9/15/2021 at 7:28 PM, Ronnie said: Not sure a hammer is the right tool for the job but whatever works... Just a few friendly taps you understand. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted September 19, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 19, 2021 Freed the clip but it won't come out, just rotates. No problem as the fitting is obviously frozen so it's off to NAPA for a tube flaring kit and new tube fitting. Also to exchange one of the new hoses as they gave me two left handed ones. ON THE PLUS SIDE, the other front caliper appears to work but I have to decide if I should change it anyway, I think I'll see of the same fitting on the left will be more cooperate. If so, I might as well replace the caliper and hose. Progress is slow for a variety of reasons but I'm getting there. BTW, saw a '90 convertible, black and tan, 99,000 miles for sale on Marketplace for 3,000. They said the only problem is a leaking brake line but it seems fishy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted September 19, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 19, 2021 1990 Buick reatta Convertible $3,000 Vehicles Listed 6 days ago in Laingsburg, MI Message About This Vehicle Driven 99,636 miles Automatic transmission Exterior color: Black · Interior color: Tan Fuel type: Gasoline Clean title This vehicle has no significant damage or problems. Seller's Description 1990 Buick Reatta convertible. Black with tan leather interior. Top in excellent condition. Glass is... See More Laingsburg, MI Location is approximate Seller Information Glen Wiley Joined Facebook in 2010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted September 20, 2021 Share Posted September 20, 2021 Metric bubble flare, most fittings are 10mm x 1.0. Even if splicing an existing line of a different style end but of 3/16" tubing, the bubble flare splice is much, much easier to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted September 20, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 20, 2021 Once again, I'm dealing with the unfamiliar, exactly what is a "bubble" flare? I'm cutting the feed tube off just below the threading to show the NAPA shop what I'm looking for. I hope the flaring tool can be rented but if I have to buy the kit I hope it's not too isn't too expensive. However, if I have to buy it I suspect I'll need it to repair leaks in the lines eventually. Thanks for your help 2seater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 20, 2021 Share Posted September 20, 2021 Whatever you do, don't let anyone talk you into using a compression fitting on brake line tubing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted September 20, 2021 Share Posted September 20, 2021 I hope this works. I tried a copy and paste but that doesn't work. I hope this helps explain. The Reatta uses most, if not all connections as the metric bubble or ISO flare. They are very easy to make, especially in a splicing situation. Brake Line Flares: Metric & SAE, Inverted & Bubble - Race & Track Driving (formerly Win HPDE) (racetrackdriving.com) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted September 20, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 20, 2021 Thanks guys! Off to NAPA with new info., hopefully they'll have what I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philbo Posted September 20, 2021 Share Posted September 20, 2021 9 hours ago, 2seater said: I hope this works. I tried a copy and paste but that doesn't work. I hope this helps explain. The Reatta uses most, if not all connections as the metric bubble or ISO flare. They are very easy to make, especially in a splicing situation. Brake Line Flares: Metric & SAE, Inverted & Bubble - Race & Track Driving (formerly Win HPDE) (racetrackdriving.com) I had never known that. I've only worked on cars that use the SAE type flare. How do you make a bubble type flare? Assuming you need a different type of flaring kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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