Today I was working on the coupe and had the passenger side parking lamp out. It was a good time to take some pictures and maybe help other that are reluctant to remove the assembly to replace bulbs.
The first photo (photo 1) is marked to show the location of the 5 mounting screws. The view is from the bottom... like you would be under the car to remove the screws.
Note: The tabs/brackets on the housing. Two of them are on the bottom side, and three are on the top side.
Screws 1, 3, & 5 are on the back (top) side and are accessed through holes.2 & 4 are the easiest to see. Also note the second picture (see photo 2) showing the hex head of #2 screw... this is the one that is most difficult to access. It is position just far enough forward that you cannot get a socket on it. Once I get this one out, I never put it back.
I also found on my 1991 coupe that screw 5 was not used, it appears the mounting bracket was eliminated at some time.
-Barney Eaton
Removing the parking lamp assembly could be a problem for owners that are tool deficient. A 1/4 drive socket set with some extensions is almost mandatory.
Thanks to wws944 for the following step by step removal instructions:
1.) Tools needed: 1/4" socket wrench, 1-1/2" extension, 7mm socket, small 7mm box-end wrench (open end will do), drop light, eye protection
2.) It is easier to get your hands into the area if you remove the air dam first. Remove the seven 7mm screws.
3.) Referring to photo 2, access screw #1 through the punched hole. It is probably best to use the socket wrench to simply loosen the screw. Then remove the extension/socket from the wrench and unscrew the rest of the way without the wrench. (This helps avoid dropping the screw into someplace you can't reach...)
4.) As Barney states, screw #2 is hard to reach. It is hidden. Unlike Barneys second photo (see photo 2) . My screw is black anodized, so was hard to see. (If you open the headlight you can feel it from the top to get an idea of where it is. It is under the center most T15 screw.) You have to use a box (or open ended) wrench to loosen it. Then unscrew with your fingers.
My '88 model had a rubber flap that had to be removed in order to get to screw #2 - Ronnie
5.) Screw #3 - use socket wrench with extension. It is fairly easy to get at.6.) Screw #4 - again there is a punched hole that the socket w/extension need to go into.
7.) Screw #5 - like Barneys '91, my '90 did not have a screw in this position.
8.) Slide the light assembly out. Twist and pull out the 5 white bulb holders holding the amber (#194NA) bulbs. Unplug the connectors for the two halogen (#890) cornering lights.
9.) Be sure to test all bulbs while the assembly is out.
10.) Reverse the above for re-installation. For screws #1 and #3, put the screw in the socket w/extension, then carefully insert/twist it into place by hand. Attach the wrench to tighten.
If you have moisture problems with your parking lamp assembly the following may help.
Once the assembly is out, it is easy to see how moisture can get into the cornering and side marker lights. The lens separates from the reflector housing by removing several T15 screws - two on top (these are the ones you can see when your headlights are up), and four on the bottom. But the problem area is that there are also two clips on top that fit into slots on on the lens. (Barneys photo shows the bottom. If he flipped it over, you could see the clips.)
The two clip slots are obviously where water can enter. Actually the whole top side is open across the rear - but there is a ridge to keep water away. Then there are drain holes under all this in the reflector. If the drain holes are plugged, water can pool inside the reflector housing. I could see evidence of this on the front 890 bulb that I replaced a few months ago. It fits into the reflector with the pins vertical - and the lower lead from the base to the bulb was actually rusted.
I am not sure what to do about the slots on top. Maybe just put a dab of putty in them? Then make sure the area under the combo light assembly is nice and clean before replacing things.
There are actually cut outs under the drain holes in the bumper cover. This gives a little more room for water to drain - and for dirt to collect. I wonder why there wasn't a hole punched in the metal plate under this, so that water really could exit?
Photo 2
Thanks to members of the Reatta forums for this information.
