The following are instructions for replacing the Strut and/or the End Link.
1. Remove the caliper from the hub and hang it out of the way with a wire coat hanger.
2. Remove the rotor.
3. Remove the ABS sensor wire and the brake line from the strut.
4. Remove the bracket for the line.
5. Unbolt the end link from the strut or cut it if it is rusted. You have 90s so you will use the U shaped end links.
6. Remove the two large bolts mounting the strut to the hub.
7. Prise the hub free of the strut.
8. Loosen the 3 upper mounting nuts on the strut tower in the engine compartment. Remove two nuts and get ready to catch the strut assembly when you remove the last nut.
9. Remove the end link from the hub and put the new one on the hub [easier to do without the strut assembly in the way].
10. Take the strut/spring assembly to your bench. I find a large vise is really useful to clamp the lower strut so the whole assembly is vertical.
The following procedure can be dangerous and result in personal injury if not done properly!
Put your spring compressor on the spring to take the tension off the upper mount. For me, the easiest way to remove the strut upper mounting nut [at the center of the strut mount] is to put vise grips right on the strut shaft. As the nut turns, so does the shaft until the vise grips hit the spring. Since you are replacing the strut, it doesn't matter if the shaft is scored, but frankly, I have not seen that happen! The chrome on that shaft is apparently top quality.11. Assembly is the reverse. Just remember to look at the orientation of the upper and lower mount [which is part of the strut] in relation to the spring and the strut so you can reassemble correctly.
12. Do not yet tighten the large bolts holding the strut to the hub.
13. Attach the end link to the strut.
14. Put a little anti-seize on the ABS sensor before seating it.
15. Put back the bracket, the ABS wire and brake line.
16. Slide the rotor on the hub.
17. Bolt the caliper back to the hub.
18. Lower the car to curb weight, bounce it, maybe even roll it back and forth a litle so the tires seat close to 90 degrees. Now crawl under and tighten the bolts that mount the strut to the hub. Ramps are good for this.
You will need an alignment making sure to tell the shop to check caster, camber and toe. BTW, don't let the shop try to tell you that the rear is not adjustable [toe]. It is adjustable.
Thanks to RichardS, member of the Reatta forums, for this information.
