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1990 conv. Programmer


Captmike

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Anyone ever try and rebuild the heater door actuators programmer? Took the programmer apart and gear is stripped....i have part number off motor 16134806.    Also sellers on eBay show 161 44370...?.

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Anyone ever try and rebuild the heater door actuators programmer?

 

Rebuild in what manner, or maybe it would be more to ask what doesn't work now? I have replaced the vacuum solenoids with ebay specials several years ago.  They were slightly larger and were added externally.  I will see if I can find the thread over on the BCA. I will try to help if you have something specific.

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Rebuild in what manner, or maybe it would be more to ask what doesn't work now? I have replaced the vacuum solenoids with ebay specials several years ago.  They were slightly larger and were added externally.  I will see if I can find the thread over on the BCA. I will try to help if you have something specific.

 

I would asume the board. I have vacuum but arm dosent move. I can. Nudge it and it tries the motor does not seem to have any strength?

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I finally found the thread about the HVAC programmer. It may or may not help.

 

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/236973-climate-control-programmer-question/

 

Thanks for that. But seems like programmer is bad there is no cure for heat and ac problems with these cars? Mine switches but door heat door dosent open or close. So i bypassed it with a choke line direct to arm. Live in florida so no big deal.. temp fix.

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I would asume the board. I have vacuum but arm dosent move. I can. Nudge it and it tries the motor does not seem to have any strength?

 

Do the mode servos work? (Does the system change from defrost to bi-level and floor)? If not the programmer ether has a vac. leak or is bad. I would remove the the control arm from the plenum and work the mode door, It could be an obstruction in the heater plenum (Leaves or mice) or corrosion on the door causing a drag on the programmer.

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Good advice above. The stepper motor that operates the temperature blend door is usually very reliable. If you have already disconnected the arm at the lever in the plenum, does the motor now operate when going to full heat or cold?

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Pardon me if I'm a little confused.  It seems like we are discussing a diverter door problem (vacuum powered) and a blend door problem (stepper motor powered) at the same time.  Below are photos of both.  Which arm is not moving properly?

1385830847_AirDiverterLever-2.JPG.1a691d2a3bacafe59d9d75e7d16740a7.JPG

1909112435_programmerblenddoorillistration.jpg.295784cbf5837b06ab45059c14c82e0c.jpg

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Pardon me if I'm a little confused.  It seems like we are discussing a diverter door problem (vacuum powered) and a blend door problem (stepper motor powered) at the same time.  Below are photos of both.  Which arm is not moving properly?

 

I'm understanding that it's the door that controls hot to cold.  In some circles the servos are referred to as motors but the only motor is in the programmer. If it is a servo then he has ether a bad diaphragm in the servo or a vac. leak in the system.

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It's true both subjects came up because the original post didn't define what the problem was, just the question of repairable or not. Vacuum motors, or actuators or servos or whatever can confuse the conversation. I took it that the temperature blend door is the issue judging by the answer in post #5. By the way, the photos are a huge help.

 

Now we just need to find out if the temperature door, driven by the stepper motor, has free travel to both extremes when disconnected, and if the stepper motor will operate to both extremes disconnected from the actuator rod. Easy to check just by turning the temperature up or down and watch the arm.

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Do the mode servos work? (Does the system change from defrost to bi-level and floor)? If not the programmer ether has a vac. leak or is bad. I would remove the the control arm from the plenum and work the mode door, It could be an obstruction in the heater plenum (Leaves or mice) or corrosion on the door causing a drag on the programmer.

 

It moves freely. All other functions work, defrost vents. Heat mode...just dosent move rod to heat or cool

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Do the mode servos work? (Does the system change from defrost to bi-level and floor)? If not the programmer ether has a vac. leak or is bad. I would remove the the control arm from the plenum and work the mode door, It could be an obstruction in the heater plenum (Leaves or mice) or corrosion on the door causing a drag on the programmer.

 

All work great. Just heat cool rod dosent move it is the stepper motor not moving, i can move it with a push when i go from hi to low temp, just will not move on its own, yes i did disconnect rod...thanks

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All work great. Just heat cool rod dosent move it is the stepper motor not moving, i can move it with a push when i go from hi to low temp, just will not move on its own, yes i did disconnect rod...thanks

 

It sounds like you have covered all the bases. The motor can be removed and replaced, it just plugs in, but I don't know of a source for the motor alone. Actually it is an assembly with an encoder module as part of the assembly.

 

 

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It's true both subjects came up because the original post didn't define what the problem was, just the question of repairable or not. Vacuum motors, or actuators or servos or whatever can confuse the conversation. I took it that the temperature blend door is the issue judging by the answer in post #5. By the way, the photos are a huge help.

 

Now we just need to find out if the temperature door, driven by the stepper motor, has free travel to both extremes when disconnected, and if the stepper motor will operate to both extremes disconnected from the actuator rod. Easy to check just by turning the temperature up or down and watch the arm.

 

Yes temp door dosent move took off rod temp door is free, stepper motor does not move , it tries with a nudge. All other vacuum functions work.

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It sounds like you have covered all the bases. The motor can be removed and replaced, it just plugs in, but I don't know of a source for the motor alone. Actually it is an assembly with an encoder module as part of the assembly.

 

 

 

Good info thanks. My next attempt, not sure where to find that?

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Good info thanks. My next attempt, not sure where to find that?

 

Probably from another derelict programmer. The motor is usually the most reliable part of a reasonably reliable system, but there are used programmers out there or the pick and pull.

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Try Jim Finn.

 

If worst comes to worst and you can't find a motor what I would do would be to dis-connect the rod (leave it disconnected) and install a spring on the door lever to hold it to the right and install a pull cable to be able to move it to the left. The cable should be strong enough to hold against the spring and when you push the cable in the spring will assist the cable.

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If worst comes to worst and you can't find a motor what I would do would be to dis-connect the rod (leave it disconnected) and install a spring on the door lever to hold it to the right and install a pull cable to be able to move it to the left. The cable should be strong enough to hold against the spring and when you push the cable in the spring will assist the cable.

 

Yeah i did do that with a over counter choke cable..

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