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new ignition module and coil installation - wiring question


radride90

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Hey Guys, so car has sat since tuesday, i have not tried to start it since but ran the diagnostics and got the trouble codes-  so i decided to see if it would start and it started on first turn, like a new car no smoke no issue let her idle for a minute , had to go , but isn’t that crazy! later i will do the same and if it runs  i will see if it runs long enough to check diagnostics on systems and components . will report back- would a bad crank sensor do that? 

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Remove the serpentine belt from the top. You should rent a pulley tool as well as a harmonic balancer pulley. Jack up the right front wheel, and remove it. Looking into the wheel well you will see a shroud that has to be removed. It is held in place by 5 or 6 plastic clips. You will need a 22mm or so socket. In Ronnie's how to section in engines there is a How to that shows you how to remove the bolt without a torque wrench. I have removed them that way, it really works. After the balancer is removed [you use the pulley tool for this step] you will see the bracket that holds the Crank Sensor in place. I cannot tell you the rest of the steps as I don't remember but there are others who can tell you the rest or you could try You Tube.

Edited by DAVES89
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On 6/12/2024 at 6:36 PM, DAVES89 said:

Kind of off the wall, but did you check the crank sensor to see if it is in the proper position? On my '88 it was loose and slide to a point where the car would barely run. Something that is free to try.

so guess what? 

I took time to pull the harmonic balancer and replaced the crank sensor and , you were right, it’s not stalling , warmed up and ran great, 20 minutes in the drive way and then around the block, idle is at 750, very steady and it starts up immediately smooth with no sputtering etc. 

Now, next up is the Servo for cruise, and getting the A/C a bit colder, otherwise back also to front shocks, too. need to find someone that makes a complete front strut assembly with spring etc, 

 

looks like Detroit axle might , anyone have a source ?

 

Phil

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Glad you finally got around to it. Maybe make a donation to help Ronnie run this forum. If you had taken it to a shop it would have been $150. for diagnosis plus at least an hour labor.

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I don't know what the R codes are. The '89 doesn't have those. Code B440 is for the air mix door, so fixing that might help with your A/C. Basically, the code sets when the BCM commands the door to move, but feedback from the motor indicates that it didn't move right. You can override the door position (0 to 99) yourself in the diagnostic menu (BS01 in the 1989. May be different on your car) and then look at BD23 (again, may be different on the '90) and see what it shows as the actual position. You can also look at the door physically to see if it's moving according to your commands, or sticking. If the reading shows 0 or 100, you may have a loose connection. Wiggling wires and observing changes in the reading would also indicate that.

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I would also suggest removing the blower motor and looking inside with a flashlight and mirror to see if the evaporator is clean. The insulation that they used around the housing disintigrates and gets sucked into the fins. This is what mine looked like:

20230801_190319.thumb.jpg.f1f6e8f89ebf5bbc3d80cf9a8114c6c2.jpg20230801_200024.thumb.jpg.8e242ed591e2da232b52aaccfc040004.jpgI replaced this whole evaporator as part of a system overhaul, but one could probably just stick a vacuum hose in through the blower motor hole and suck that crap out without disassembling anything 

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You can also remove the blower control module directly at the top of the heater plenum by itself or in concert with the blower motor. View from the top and insert vacuum from the right. Brake clean spray or other cleaning fluid sprayed on the face of the evaporator will help if there is a sticky film present.

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6 minutes ago, 2seater said:

You can also remove the blower control module directly at the top of the heater plenum by itself or in concert with the blower motor. View from the top and insert vacuum from the right. Brake clean spray or other cleaning fluid sprayed on the face of the evaporator will help if there is a sticky film present.

To add to 2seater I would spray brake cleaner and then follow up with water spray to neutralize. Then compressed air to dry the water and repeat with brake fluid, water, air until clean. Just never liked the idea of solvents around engines. 

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Isn't brake cleaner acetone?  As I understand it, the whole point of using it as a paint prep is that it does not leave any residue?  

Make sure you get both grommets to go with the PCV valve.  If you are able to get the valve out without destroying one or both, and they still have some flexibility, you'll have the grommets for the when they do have to be replaced.

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Regarding the PCV grommets, if you change those, be very careful when removing them they tend to break apart if they're old and brittle and fall inside the engine. Don't ask me how I know 😳

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On 6/30/2024 at 4:26 PM, wufibugs said:

Isn't brake cleaner acetone?  As I understand it, the whole point of using it as a paint prep is that it does not leave any residue?  

Make sure you get both grommets to go with the PCV valve.  If you are able to get the valve out without destroying one or both, and they still have some flexibility, you'll have the grommets for the when they do have to be replaced.

 

On 6/30/2024 at 8:21 PM, Anthony said:

Regarding the PCV grommets, if you change those, be very careful when removing them they tend to break apart if they're old and brittle and fall inside the engine. Don't ask me how I know 😳

yea, i went thru that a couple weeks ago, they were pretty bad shape, looked like this— yes i lost a small piece i had to fish out with a wire hook out of plenum, not the case thank God

the new one was not easy to install either

IMG_9397.jpeg

IMG_9345.jpeg

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