How to replace Crankshaft Position Sensor guide added

[Ronnie]

I added a new how-to guide with a video to help with changing the sensor. I haven't done much proof reading yet. Please check it out and let me know if you see any errors or changes that need to be made. Thanks.

 

Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement

[Ronnie]

I added more to the how-to guide to explain how I used a business card to adjust the clearance on the sensor. Adding the additional information may have been too much information. Let me know what you think.

 

I think it took me more time to write the tutorial than it took me to change the CPS. 🙂 

[ship]

Ronnie, extremely informative.  Many thanks for creating this "How-To".

 

PS:  I had my '91 Reatta sensor replaced 7 years ago but have only put on less than 6K miles since the replacement...so far so good (hope I'm not jinxing myself!).

[Padgett]

I've done from the top before but have long fingers and small hands.

[Ronnie]

13 minutes ago, Padgett said:

I've done from the top before but have long fingers and small hands.

I might have been able to do it from the top. With my bad back I think it was easier to jack it up so I could get down on the floor with it instead of constantly bending over. I'm tall and having it jacked up actually got me closer to the balancer without bending over so far.

 

I did have a good view from the top while sliding the balancer into the sensor but I also wanted to check it from the bottom after removing the folded card to make certain the clearance was right before locking it down.

 

[DAVES89]

I inserted the card stock from the top but crawled under to tighten down the bolt. I removed the balancer twice [for a reason I will never share, stupid serpentine belt] and I was lucky the keyway was right at 12 o clock. 

 I thought I heard a "snap" as I tightened down the bolt tightening the clamp and thought sure I broke either the clamp or the edges of the sensor that slides on the clamp. But both the sensor was in tight and the clamp was solid so don't know what I heard. And 200 plus miles and all is good so we'll see.

[Ronnie]

16 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

I thought I heard a "snap" as I tightened down the bolt tightening the clamp and thought sure I broke either the clamp or the edges of the sensor that slides on the clamp. But both the sensor was in tight and the clamp was solid so don't know what I heard. And 200 plus miles and all is good so we'll see.

When I tried to use my old bracket, the new Delphi sensor seemed to rock from side to side in it more than I thought it should. I used the new bracket that came with the Delphi sensor. The new senso slid smoothly in it without rocking. Perhaps your new sensor had rocked in the bracket a little and when you tightened the bolt it popped as it aligned itself. I think it will be fine since you have driven so many miles. I'm up to 260 miles since I replaced mine.

[Padgett]

Have never used card stock but do use a mirror. Make sure none of the rings on the balancer are bent while off.

[jon L]

There is really no reason the remove the front wheel and the fender panel. If you remove the shock and bracket you have full access to the harmonic balancer.  The braker bar and starter are the fastest way to remove the nut. This job is simple, and can be done in less than 1 hour.

[Ronnie]

1 hour ago, jon L said:

There is really no reason the remove the front wheel and the fender panel. If you remove the shock and bracket you have full access to the harmonic balancer.  The braker bar and starter are the fastest way to remove the nut. This job is simple, and can be done in less than 1 hour.

How do you keep the engine from turning from the top while you tighten the harmonic balancer bolt to anywhere near the 217 lb ft of torque specified in the FSM?

[Ronnie]

Now that I have discovered how easy others think changing the CPS is to do, I went back and removed all of my photos and personal notes about what I did when I replaced my CPS from the how-to guide I wrote. I left a few notes about the differences between the Buick Reatta and the car that was repaired in the video. There probably isn't a need for this how-to guide at all, but since I had already written it I decided to leave it in a shorter form. Maybe someone who has never changed the CPS on a Reatta will stumble across it and will find it useful.

 

 

[jon L]

Ronnie, You remove the flywheel cover and use a large screwdriver to wedge  the flywheel against the block.  Put your torque wrench on the nut and tighten.