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Brake Accumulator Keeps Running


89reattaWI

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there’s a squeaking noise in front of the drivers side in the engine bay, and i think i hear it coming from the brake accumulator area. it would run for about 10 seconds then shut off, but i just drove it for a little bit today and it wouldn’t stop. every time i turned the car on it would stay on. 

 

im not sure what it is or how to fix it.

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Sounds like the accumulator ball is weak. It's the thing that looks like the float ball in your toilet.

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Could be the brake pressure switch is leaking internally. causing the pump to stay on.

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i just had the accumulator replaced last year so i hope it’s not that. if it was installed incorrectly would that be the problem?

 

2 minutes ago, rogold said:

Could be the brake pressure switch is leaking internally. causing the pump to stay on.

would not purging the air cause it to run constantly? i know i haven’t done that.

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oh and the brakes work for the most part. probably just not as powerful as they should be.

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Do the red and amber brake warning lights work? Do they go off after a minute or so when you first start the car after sitting overnight? Does one or both of the lights come on while driving and using the brakes in normal operation?

The accumulator should not require bleeding at the pump if that is all that was changed. When the accumulator is first installed the internal bladder for the gas charge is right down against the inlet for the fluid from the pump so there is no appreciable space for air to be trapped.

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Pull the electrical connector from the pressure switch on the brake pump and check it for fluid contamination. It should be clean and dry. If fluid is leaking through the switch, it must be replaced.

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8 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

Sounds like the accumulator ball is weak. It's the thing that looks like the float ball in your toilet.

Oops, I read the post wrong. I concur that the switch should be the issue.

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I’ll drive over to where it’s being stored today and look at the lights. the lights on the dash are the amber abs, service engine soon, and an electrical problem light. i think the red brake light was on but it turned off awhile ago after the accumulator was replaced.

 

While i’m there i’ll pull the connector and check it out thank you guys.

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the red brake light came on for a split second but disappeared right away if that tells you guys anything.

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Have you determined the the brake pump is actually where the noise is coming from? If it's the pump, the noise should have stopped when you unplugged the connector you have in your hand.

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1 hour ago, Ronnie said:

when you unplugged the connector

i didn’t have the car running so i’ll go check in a minute.

 

and thanks rogold i’ll look into that.

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51 minutes ago, 89reattaWI said:

i didn’t have the car running

You don't need the engine running. You just need the key turned to the "run" position for the brake pump to run.

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when i switched the relays the pump did not start. and when i switched them back the pump didn’t until i started the car. 

 

so i’m guessing the relay is bad. i’m gonna look into buying one.

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10 hours ago, 89reattaWI said:

when i switched the relays the pump did not start. and when i switched them back the pump didn’t until i started the car. 

 

so i’m guessing the relay is bad. i’m gonna look into buying one.

I am a little confused by the above? The pump didn't run with one of the relays installed and it didn't run with the other relay but did run with the engine running, is that correct??

I noted the comment the red like came on momentarily and then went out. Under what conditions did that occur? It is normal for the red light to be on after the car sits overnight and extinguish after a minute or so as the pump pressurizes the system.

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1 minute ago, 2seater said:

Under what conditions did that occur?

After it sat overnight, I turned the car on and saw the red brake light blink on. It didn’t stay on for more than a second. The pump started after that.

 

3 minutes ago, 2seater said:

The pump didn't run with one of the relays installed and it didn't run with the other relay but did run with the engine running, is that correct??

The pump didn’t start with the key in the on position, so I turned it on and drove it for a minute until it turned on. I parked it again and the pump then started with the key in the on position. 
 

So after that I switched the brake pump and fuel pump relay. The pump didn’t start when I put the key in the on position. 
 

After I switched them back I’m pretty sure I had to start the car for the pump to start again.
 

I don’t know what starting the car with the relays switched would do. I didn’t want to start it without knowing since I shouldn’t have to.

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No wonder the situation is confusing, the operation defies normal expectation. The only thing that might possibly change with the engine running vs off is the system voltage. It should increase a volt or two when the alternator is operating. It doesn't take a lot to trip a relay but perhaps the pump needs more voltage or there is a poor connection, starting with the battery connections. Do you have a voltmeter or something to measure the power delivery to various points such as the battery and brake system?

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