LostOldschooler Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Just got this 1989 Reatta,She starts and runs and drives and I was really surprised because she was abandoned on some rental property for over 3 years....I have searched through some older threads here but Im still lost....No dash lights work at all besides headlight switch assy and fog lamp,headlamp down notification lamp,,,,I am new to these types of dashes/electronics..I have replaced all fuses and breakers....Unless there is one I aint seeing..... Just where in the world do I start,,,,Thanks Yall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Welcome to the forum. The instrument panel and the CRT have an auto dimming feature that could be defective causing them to stay dark. Try sliding the dimmer on the headlight switch to the right to see if they get bright. Let us know what you find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostOldschooler Posted March 6, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted March 6, 2017 Tried the dimmer nothing happened it was pretty rough moving it back and forth may try some cleaner in it,,I got the car and had to put the dash back together so Im picking up where the last person gave up,,,None of the connectors or switch assy look burnt..And being new to this Ride may I ask what is the ICP and CRT?I have seen them on other post and you just mentioned the CRT....Thanks for the quick response and help...It is a pretty neat and clean little car for it age dont wanna see it waste away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 IPC= -Instrument Panel Cluster. This is the panel in the dash that displays engine functions, speed ect. CRT= Cathode Ray Tube (In reference to the GCC -Graphic Control Center) or Touch Screen. Do any of the warning lights on the IPC light up? This will help you get up to speed on Reatta terminology: Frequently Used Acronyms and Abbreviations Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostOldschooler Posted March 6, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted March 6, 2017 No Sir,,, no warning lights...And thank you for the much needed info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 I've never had an IPC or CRT fail but if I remember correctly the warning lights along the bottom usually still work when the rest of the IPC fails. I'll take a look at the service manual and see if I can find what might be causing the problem and I'll get back to you soon. Perhaps someone else will chime in that have ideas on what you should check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 OK. It appears there are at least two things in common with the IPC and CRT that would effect them both. Fuse #5 supplies power to the CPS-(Central Power Supply), which supplies power to both components. I would start by checking the fuse receptacle to make sure it has power going to it. Then make sure the fuse is good even though you have installed a new one. Once you know that fuse 5 is supplying power properly you will need to diagnose the CPS to see if it is good. There are other fuses that play a part in making the IPC and CRT work but you said you had changed them all. It would be a good idea to go back and check them all to make sure none of them have blown again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdirk Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Ronnie, as a side note, the 88/89 IPC has a failure mode in which the malfunction indicators along the bottom (beneath the digital display portion) stop functioning, as though all the bulbs burned out at the same time. This is actually an internal failure (that I've not yet had time to track down), and I have at least 4 such clusters presently. This is not an apparent issue on the 90/91 IPC design, though as we know they have their own design weaknesses. I would add that I've seen a number of 90/91 clusters with individual telltale's burned out (often the service engine soon lamp is affected), but never loss of all 8 lamps functioning at once. Getting back to OP's issues, it is entirely possible the car has both a bad CRT and IPC, though the odds of that seem a bit unlikely. Do the amber LED indicators for each hard button on the edges of the touchscreen work? Is it beeping with each button press (the default setting unless it has been set to off via the status menu). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 I went back and reread the original post and I believe the reason the car was abandoned was not because the car didn't run [the OP says the car runs and drives well] but that first the CRT went out and then the IPC. I also believe, as this car was abandoned it was purchased really cheap. So having said that, my first step would be to go out and buy a used working CRT and IPC. If you like the car and think you are keeping the car having these parts are not a detriment but an investment as what needs to be remembered is that Reatta specific parts are no longer being made and are vanishing fast. And always remember this; Any extra parts you have, you can one day sell to someone else, the demand will always be there. As what you have doesn't work I will offer to you that you mail to me your CRT and IPC and I will put them in my car to test. All I ask is that you pay return freight. My email is lemke1044@aol.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostOldschooler Posted March 8, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 kdirk..There are no lights on at all or beeps when the buttons are pushed on the CRT....Cleaned up dimmer switch so still no lights on the IPC.....Only lights I get are on headlight switch and all lights respond on that switch...Have the 2 lights on at fog lamp and headlight buckets down that stay on and get no response when either button is pushed....Im gonna chase down all the grounds and clean them up.....DAVES89 I may take you up on that...This car is in way to good of shape to rot away....But being a hard head I am Im going to keep digging....I cant stand letting a car beat me up!!!!! :) Thanks alot yall Oh yea 1 more question Will a bad CRT stop the IPC from operating? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 You may find this odd but try this... Turn the key to the "Accessory" position (all the way back toward you), wait a few seconds, and then press all the buttons, especially the "radio" button, on the CRT and see the radio controls light up. Report back with your results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdirk Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 A failed CRT will not prevent the IPC from working, or vice versa. They are independent devices operating from data pulled from the vehicle network, so even if one is offline, the other will continue to operate. If the in vehicle network fails, the lack of real-time data will cause loss of tach, temp, speedo, odometer on so forth, but that will be seen as zero readouts and typically the "electrical problem" telltale on the cluster will be illuminated under those circumstances. Even in that case, the digital displays are still illuminated, but showing zero (odometer will show "error" in most such instances) and thE CRT will generally show an error message indicating a computer communications problem. I would follow the suggestion Ronnie just posted, as this tests the RAP (retained accessory power) function. When RAP is active, the IPC is not on and the CRT will operate in radio mode only. Other power accessories that are normally available when the engine is running (windows, wipers) are also powered in RAP Mode for 10 minutes or until a door is opened to exit the car. In order to conserve battery (as engine is not running in RAP) the CRT screen self-blanks after several seconds and can be reactivated by pressing the RADIO button on the CRT. If it turns out this is what is happening in your car, then that means you are not getting normal power up to the instrumentation and they are stuck in RAP mode when when the engine is running. There are a number of possible causes for this, but we need to determine first if your instrumentation is stuck in RAP Mode. Check that and then we can proceed from there with your findings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 ... I would follow the suggestion Ronnie just posted, as this tests the RAP (retained accessory power) function. When RAP is active, the IPC is not on and the CRT will operate in radio mode only. Other power accessories that are normally available when the engine is running (windows, wipers) are also powered in RAP Mode for 10 minutes or until a door is opened to exit the car. In order to conserve battery (as engine is not running in RAP) the CRT screen self-blanks after several seconds and can be reactivated by pressing the RADIO button on the CRT. If it turns out this is what is happening in your car, then that means you are not getting normal power up to the instrumentation and they are stuck in RAP mode when when the engine is running. There are a number of possible causes for this, but we need to determine first if your instrumentation is stuck in RAP Mode. Check that and then we can proceed from there with your findings. That is a very good explanation of the reasoning behind my last post. It seems odd that the IPC and CRT would both be bad but with the age of these components there is real possibly that they are. Dave's offer to test them has the bases covered on that. I think we can get to the bottom of this problem with a logical process of elimination. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostOldschooler Posted March 8, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 Ok #5 fuse is getting power, tried turning key to accessory and pushed all buttons on the CRT and got nothing from any of them....Im am going to look through this group and see if I can find what the relays are that in the hidden compartment where the fuses are cant find anything on the web....Again Im glad I found this page...Thanks Yall for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Is this what you are looking for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostOldschooler Posted March 8, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 Thats it yes sir Thank You Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostOldschooler Posted March 9, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted March 9, 2017 Welp nothing new on the CRT or IPC,But went out to start her and play with her today and wont start....But good news the ICM is ozzing on to the lower radiator hose so thats gonna be a easy fix.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Unless the crank sensor just failed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostOldschooler Posted March 10, 2017 Topic Author Share Posted March 10, 2017 DAVES89 come on now think positive.....:) I would rather it be the ICM its way easier than the crank sensor....Ive done them on these motors before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdirk Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Heh, people tell me I need to be more positive, my response is "Ok, yeah. I'm positive something really big/bad/expensive just broke." Anyway, sounds like you probably have both a bad cluster and CRT. You could try probing the harnesses for the IPC and CRT (if you have a factory manual to guide you).and see if you have good 12V hot/switched and ground at their respective pins, this would at least tell you if power is getting to them. If not, then having already verified the fuses, I'd suspect a wiring problem. I seldom see an 88/89 cluster fail, this happens much more on 90/91 models. And the CRT usually doesn't outright fail, it will still beep with "button" presses even if there is no image on the screen. The fact you aren't even getting that has me wondering just what's wrong. Perhaps they both got smoked by an improper jump start, but I'd suspect other modules would also be impacted in that case. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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