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ABS repair help needed (listed my codes)


Alchemy333

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FYI, reply from AIP (gave both Buick and Cadillac part numbers): GM 1648453. 1646478, 1638537, 1646505, or 3521272 ?

"We do not show anything with these part numbers"

 

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Just now received my Saab right front wheel speed sensors. They are approximately the right length, have the correct connector, have the rubber mounting boots in approximately the right places and have about the same resistance. There should be no reason they don't work. Remember the head is configured a bit different so it looks like an adapter piece will have to be made for the barrel hole and mounting bolt.

Looks like an excellent value/replacement for less then $32.00 delivered

Edited by DAVES89
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10 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

Just now received my Saab right front wheel speed sensors. They are approximately the right length, have the correct connector, have the rubber mounting boots in approximately the right places and have about the same resistance. There should be no reason they don't work. Remember the head is configured a bit different so it looks like an adapter piece will have to be made for the barrel hole and mounting bolt.

Looks like an excellent value/replacement for less then $32.00 delivered

I got a pair in my cart if need be. Went ahead and removed and inspected both front WSS's. The one popping code was gunked up and the gear was pretty clogged with crud. The coax wire was good where the insulation was falling off from sitting 10yrs, so I went ahead and wrapped it with electrical tape to see how it goes. Added 2 new rotors, new hydraulic lines and Bosch pads... greased the ball joints.

 

Overall, the braking is 80% better. But, still feel a push/movement in the pedal. Its when im sitting still mostly. Applying brakes while moving now feel fine (havent slammed on it or taken over 30mph yet). ABS light still on, but haven't run new codes yet... a bit exhausted. Will pull new codes this weekend.

 

Im looking into hitting the rear brakes now, which need addressing, but the horror stories I read on various threads make me feel a bit timid. Are the rears really as complicated as so many make it out to sound?20230116_202045.thumb.jpg.a4d448432c1e05b9098ca202707d0a6a.jpg

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4 hours ago, Alchemy333 said:

Im looking into hitting the rear brakes now, which need addressing, but the horror stories I read on various threads make me feel a bit timid. Are the rears really as complicated as so many make it out to sound?

Rear brakes shouldn't be so bad. Main difference from the front is you have do deal with the parking brake mechanism and you have to manually screw the piston back in to compensate for the thicker new pads. There are some how-to guides and we  can help.  Just ask.

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19 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

Just now received my Saab right front wheel speed sensors. They are approximately the right length, have the correct connector, have the rubber mounting boots in approximately the right places and have about the same resistance. There should be no reason they don't work. Remember the head is configured a bit different so it looks like an adapter piece will have to be made for the barrel hole and mounting bolt.

Looks like an excellent value/replacement for less then $32.00 delivered

My pair arrived yesterday. I may never need them or maybe for the rescued red my son has. It did have ABS issues but it is put away for the winter. Hard to pass up for the price👍

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Received mine also, everything looks good but barrel is definately too long, better than too short.

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Not to be an alarmist but I just went to Rock Auto and all they list is the right rear Saab wheel speed sensor. So if I had to guess it would be that these are also being discontinued. Rock Auto was at $198.00 for them. 

I'm thinking about buying more. I have a total of 5 front [3 Reatta and 2 Saab] and 4 rear Reatta ones.

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Soooo, I jumped the codes A-H again. No codes now. Made several attempts. ABS light still on. Red Brake warning light hasn't come on at all while test driving it. Not sure what to check next.🤔🤔🤔

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17 hours ago, Alchemy333 said:

Applying brakes while moving now feel fine (havent slammed on it or taken over 30mph yet). ABS light still on, but haven't run new codes yet...

The way the codes in the EBCM are cleared is by driving the car. I don't remember the minimum speed but maybe 30 mph isn't fast enough. In this case disconnecting the battery won't reset the ABS codes like the other computers.

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6 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

Not to be an alarmist but I just went to Rock Auto and all they list is the right rear Saab wheel speed sensor. So if I had to guess it would be that these are also being discontinued. Rock Auto was at $198.00 for them. 

I'm thinking about buying more. I have a total of 5 front [3 Reatta and 2 Saab] and 4 rear Reatta ones.

Don't be surprised if the supply of these get bought up quickly, and the only place they will be available is on the website of the nations largest source of Reatta parts.

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18 hours ago, Ronnie said:

Don't be surprised if the supply of these get bought up quickly, and the only place they will be available is on the website of the nations largest source of Reatta parts.

Only if that supplier comes here and reads up on it. There were only two posts on the AACA Reatta site [and three comments] about what the guy figured out and he was a guest at the time.  This was back in 2016. 

I'm tempted to buy the remaining inventory, make up adapter plates and sell them for $150.00 each which was the last published price for the Reatta leads.

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This is a naive question, but actually happens when a sensor goes bad on 1 wheel?    Is the whole ABS system effected or just that wheel or end of the car?    If the sensor is not replaced, is any other operation effected?

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31 minutes ago, Top Down said:

This is a naive question, but actually happens when a sensor goes bad on 1 wheel?    Is the whole ABS system effected or just that wheel or end of the car?    If the sensor is not replaced, is any other operation effected?

It doesn't affect the braking system or the booster at all, but it does deactivate the ABS system overall. Even though our braking system for the Teves 2 is three channels hydraulically, it receives four channels of input electrically. It needs input from all sensors or it is no longer ABS.

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2 hours ago, Top Down said:

This is a naive question, but actually happens when a sensor goes bad on 1 wheel?    Is the whole ABS system effected or just that wheel or end of the car?    If the sensor is not replaced, is any other operation effected?

Even though they are combined in the master cylinder as a unit, you can think of the ABS (Antilock Brake System) and the power brakes as two separate systems.

 

1. Power Brakes

The red warning light staying on all the time tells you that there is a problem with the pressure in the power brakes system. This is a dangerous situation and the car isn't safe to drive. If you see the red warning light flash momentarily when you tap the brakes it is usually caused by a bad accumulator. The car can still be driven with caution but the problem should be fixed as soon as possible. 

 

2. ABS

The yellow ABS light tells you there is a problem with the ABS. When anything in the ABS system goes wrong, even one wheel sensor, the ABS light will come on and the entire ABS will be disabled until the problem is fixed.  The power brake part of the system will still function normally and you can still drive the care safely as long as the red warning light isn't on. You just won't have the anti-lock feature of the Teves brake system. The ABS makes the Reatta stop much quicker in a panic situation without sliding the wheels. It has saved my butt several times.

 

Something that should be noted is anytime the red warning light is on the yellow ABS warning light will come on within a few seconds. That doesn't always mean the ABS system has a problem. The problem that is causing the red warning light to be on should be corrected first before trying to get the yellow ABS light to go out.

 

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I was reading some older threads regarding the ABS light not going out (with no codes), and decided to replace the 2 Echlin AR174 relays. Still no change. Brakes good... still no ABS. Ran the car around the neighborhood a few times, then attempted to run codes again... it does nothing. No blinking at all still. I feel the self check click in the brake pedal when I start it up, so that knocks off a few more potentials.

 

Any chance this is an issue based on not addressing rear brake pads/rotors yet? No rear codes popped up when codes originally pulled. @Ronnie 

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1 hour ago, Alchemy333 said:

then attempted to run codes again... it does nothing. No blinking at all still.

The light should blink even if there are no codes stored.  No flashes is an indication the EBCM isn't working. Make sure you are shorting the correct terminals and check the ABS fuse under the dash

Brake Pump & ABS Fuse Location.

 

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