Cmanring82 Posted June 12, 2022 Share Posted June 12, 2022 I just purchased a 1990 Buick Reatta with 108k miles. Test drove it, started right up and drove just fine. Drove it back home from SC to NC. Did fine the 3 hour drive but when I got 5 miles from my house it started acting up. Driving rough and rpms jumping up and down and once it would get to about 45 mph it would jerk and hesitate. Let it sit for about 45 minutes and it started up and was driving fine again. Drove it about 30 minutes and it started doing the rpm thing again and the service engine light came on and it stalled on me. After about 3 tries it started up again, no service engine light, but was still driving rough, then as I was pulling into my neighborhood went back to driving normal. Took it to the grocery store, drove fine. Got in the car to come home and as soon as I started it, same problem with rpm and rough acceleration. As I was pulling into the neighborhood it went back to driving fine, until I pulled into my driveway and it stalled. Hasn't started since. We've tried new crankshaft position sensor, new camshaft position sensor and new coil and module. Still not starting. My mechanic has been here 4 days in a row now trying to figure this out and he can't seem to get it to start. What in the world is going on with this thing?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 12, 2022 Share Posted June 12, 2022 Welcome to the forum! First question. Do you have spark at the spark plugs when the engine won't start? Second question. Have you checked the fuel pressure at the Schrader valve on the fuel rail? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmanring82 Posted June 12, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted June 12, 2022 Thanks Ronnie! So the fuel pressure is fine and yes there is spark at the spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmanring82 Posted June 12, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted June 12, 2022 I'm waiting on my mechanic to bring back another new module. The one he purchased yesterday didn't have any thread for the screws 🤦🏼♂️ but we did have spark with the new coil pack and module. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 12, 2022 Share Posted June 12, 2022 Next step would be to spray some gas into the air intake and see if it tries to run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmanring82 Posted June 12, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted June 12, 2022 Tried that too. Still no start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 12, 2022 Share Posted June 12, 2022 If you have a strong spark, you should at least get a sputter from the engine when you spray gas in the intake and try to start it. You can rule out the camshaft position sensor. It won't keep the engine from starting or continue running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmanring82 Posted June 12, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted June 12, 2022 There were a couple times it acted like it wanted to sputter on the first crank, but after that it just turns over, no start. Now the battery is almost dead from so many failed attempts at trying to start it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmanring82 Posted June 12, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted June 12, 2022 I'm honestly scared to keep it now after having all these problems right after purchasing it. I paid $3000 for it on Wednesday and it hasn't been drivable since Thursday. Already putting hundreds of dollars into it, and it's the only car I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 12, 2022 Share Posted June 12, 2022 2 minutes ago, Cmanring82 said: There were a couple times it acted like it wanted to sputter on the first crank Was that while you were spraying gas into the intake? Obviously you can't start an engine with a dead battery. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmanring82 Posted June 12, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted June 12, 2022 Yes. We hooked up another battery to it once my battery started dying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmanring82 Posted June 12, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted June 12, 2022 After spraying gas in the intake while trying to start it acted like it wanted to crank just once. Every try after that was the same Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 12, 2022 Share Posted June 12, 2022 1 minute ago, Cmanring82 said: After spraying gas in the intake while trying to start it acted like it wanted to crank just once. That tells me that either the fuel pressure is too low. must be at least 35 psi or more to start. Do you know what the fuel pressure reading is? If it's not fuel pressure problem, the fuel injectors must not be opening for some reason. If you have a good mechanic he should be able to figure that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmanring82 Posted June 12, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted June 12, 2022 Not sure what the pressure reading is but I do know it was fine. Will ask him about the fuel injectors next time he comes by. Thanks Ronnie! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 12, 2022 Share Posted June 12, 2022 If you find out the actual fuel pressure post it here. Better still have your mechanic do the fuel pump tests in the how-to section of this website and post the results. That would be very helpful to help you diagnose your problem. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted June 12, 2022 Share Posted June 12, 2022 "the service engine light came on " if it came on while still running (and not when it stopped), then it set an error code. First step is to find out what it is. Second: when it stalled did the tach go to zero or bounce a bit first ? Third if no code is set then is most likely secondary ignition (coils, plug wires, plugs) Fourth is not electrical then need to measure fuel rail pressure, might have a clogged filter, failing fuel pump, or regulator stuck open. Sounds like something simple waiting to fail in a hot soak. BTW hate to say it but a "mostly original" Reatta with over 100k and a Magnavox ignition is not a good "only car". That said, once sorted the 3800 is one of the most reliable GM engines. I still carry tools and a spare ICM/coils when I take the Reatta out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmanring82 Posted June 12, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted June 12, 2022 (edited) Unfortunately, I don't have the money to have more than one car, which is why I said I was thinking about getting rid of it. But thanks for the obvious comment. 👍🏻 Edited June 12, 2022 by Cmanring82 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 12, 2022 Share Posted June 12, 2022 The Reatta is a unique car that can be a little more complicated than the average car to work on, but as far as not starting is concerned you wouldn't be any better off with a run of the mill Buick Century or any other sedan with a 3800 V6. The drivetrain in them is the same as the Reatta of the same time period. My advice is if you like the Reatta, find a competent mechanic who knows the 3800 V6 really well and he will get your Reatta going in no time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted June 12, 2022 Share Posted June 12, 2022 You're in North Carolina and so is Marck of East Coast Reattas. I'd google the phone number and see if he would be interested in trouble shooting your car. 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmanring82 Posted June 13, 2022 Topic Author Share Posted June 13, 2022 Am I going to have to keep replacing the coil pack? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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