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Stranded on the side of the road.


Ronnie
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8 hours ago, Ronnie said:

... I need to test mine by tightening a large bolt and then seeing how much it would take to break it loose with my torque wrench. 

I did a little test on my Kobalt battery powered impact wrench this afternoon to see if it was up to the 150 lb-ft rating they advertise. I put a 5/8" bolt in my vice  and put 2 large flat washers on it. I ran a nut down on it using my impact with a 1-1/8" socket on it. That is the same size socket that fits the bolt on my harmonic balancer. My impact wrench actually has three setting. I put it on the highest setting and let it hammer until no rotation could be detected. Then I marked the bolt, washers and nut so I could tell if they moved. Beginning with my torque wrench (18" long) set on 70 lb-ft I slowly worked my way up, 10 lb-ft at a time, until my torque wrench maxed out at 150. With my torque wrench set at 150 it never turned that nut at all. It just clicked at 150 every time I pulled on it. I used my old torque wrench to confirm the results. Man, was I surprised that something that looks like a fat cordless drill could put that much torque on a large bolt.

 

Next I used my 24" breaker bar to tighten the nut as tight as I could get it. I pulled on the breaker bar as hard as I could. I have no way of knowing how much additional torque I applied to the nut but it was damn tight. Then I tried the Kobalt impact to see if it could remove the nut. I had to let it hammer for several seconds but it did break the nut loose and spun it off.  I'm pretty impressed with this little $100 impact (not including battery or charger). It looks like Kobalt tools will perform as advertised. For how long I don't know. 🙂 

 

 

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Is really a matter of how long you let it ka-bang. Lug nots on my CTS are supposed to be set at 140 lb-ft (to keep the brakes from rattling). Will remove them eventually.

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11 hours ago, Padgett said:

Is really a matter of how long you let it ka-bang

Well, not really. Everything has it's limits. When an impact wrench will no longer rotate the nut it is trying t turn it has reached it's limits. The limit on my impact was somewhere past 150 lb-ft with a fully charged battery. I imagine that number would drop as the battery loses power.

 

The bottom line after my test is I think my 24 volt impact will do an antiquate job of tightening the crankshaft bolt. When I replaced the balancer years ago I used a breaker bar with a short cheater pipe on it but I didn't do a good job getting the bolt tight because I had a hell of a time keeping the flywheel from turning. They make tools for that purpose but I don't have one.

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Posted (edited)

My viewpoint on battery operated devices is that they will get you homes where the real toolsare. I also have an 8" bar with a tooth and plastic handle that can lock the ring gear in place. I've used the starter method on the side of the road before.

BTW a length of clothesline in a spark plug hole can also hold the crank in place.

ps just "cut the cord" and infotainment monthly bill is dropping over $100/mo.

Edited by Padgett
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The torque setting on the balancer is 225lbs.

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Yes but I would think 150 lb-ft would get you home.

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The new CPS arrived yesterday from Amazon. I installed it this morning. The engine fired right up and ran like it should.

 

I was a little surprised at what happened. The plastic center section of the CPS had partially broken away allowing the magnet inside to fall out. (photos below) That explains why I lost both, 3X and 18X CPS signals at the same time. The magnet had stuck to the shutter ring but didn't damage it. I was lucky. 

 

I used my battery powered impact wrench to remove the crankshaft bolt. It had to hammer a while to break  it loose. I put the bolt back in with blue Loctite and let the impact wrench hammer to get it tight. No, it's not up to spec but I don't think it will come loose. 

 

crank sensor (20).JPG

crank sensor (27).JPG

crank sensor (29)-2.JPG

crank sensor (32).JPG

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That sure is ugly Ronnie. Glad you got it done. Where the directions I wrote helpful?

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22 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

That sure is ugly Ronnie. Glad you got it done. Wasn't too hard was it?

 

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12 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

Were the directions I wrote helpful?

Yes, very helpful. I did use the new bracket that came with the Delphi CPS. The new CPS didn't seem to fit the old bracket as well as it did the new one. I did use the business card. I didn't completely understand how you folded the T shape so I came up with something similar (photo) and it worked well. As always, I took lots of photos. 🙂 

 

All the help I got from everyone is appreciated.

 

crank sensor (7).JPG

 

crank sensor (11).JPG

 

 

 

 

 

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10 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

Glad you got it done. Wasn't too hard was it?

Not too bad. Hard part for me was getting the car up on jack stands and getting up and down to crawl around under it.  I killed a lot of time taking photos that might help others replacing a CPS.

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Glad it runs good, but I think your gap might be a bit too much. I meant for the card to slide along the shutter gate and the first gap on the Sensor. How was it to remove the bracket? I had a hard time so just left it and installed the new sensor in the old bracket.

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5 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

but I think your gap might be a bit too much. I meant for the card to slide along the shutter gate and the first gap on the Sensor.

Do you think I will have a problem? I started the ring in the sensor from the top and then crawled underneath to make sure it was aligned before tightening the pinch bolt. I'm sorry, I still don't understand what you are trying to tell me about the card. Did you put it in the gap that the ring with all the notches goes in or the one that I used that only has three notches?

 

The bolts came out of the bracket easy. I had to grasp the bracket and rotate it from side to side as I pulled out on it to get it off the guide pin. It does fit on the pin tightly.

 

 

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I used one thickness of the card and slid it closest to the crank shaft

 Like I said if you are running good you're probably good.

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I'll try to explain it again. After I got the balancer on I slid a business card strip down the sensor and the gate closest to the crankshaft. It slid straight through and landed on the ground. So I made another one looking like a tee to stop it from sliding through. The I crawled under the car and snuggled the sensor up to the card/gate and tightened it down.

 

 

 

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You didn't fold the card so it sandwiched the metal shutter ring in between it like I did?

 

I folded the card in the middle as shown so it would wedge into the first gap in the sensor. Then I folded the top edge of the card over so it would hook on the left edge of the sensor and keep the card from falling down. The folded card wrapped around the metal shutter ring  as it slid in to center the gap on each side of the ring. I think I'll be OK. Time will tell. 🙂 

 

crank sensor (5).JPG

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Okay I see what you did. You are good as I see only one business card thickness on each side and a fold to not drop through.

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48 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

Okay I see what you did. You are good as I see only one business card thickness on each side and a fold to not drop through.

Great. Thanks for all your help!

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Thanks for taking the time to photograph and explain all this. Hopefully I won’t have to do mine any time soon, but now I have an understanding of how the CPS works.

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This was my first time replacing the CPS on a Reatta. It's not really too hard to do. Getting tips and guidance from the guys here on the forum so you know what to expect makes it a lot easier.

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