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Options for replacing rear struts needed.


lukehemstreet
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26 minutes ago, Padgett said:

There is also a rear for a Riviera/Toronado with air lifts that fits. Part number is above somewhere.

Yeah, might have to check again, but last I checked I could not find those in stock anywhere either

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What we need is a billionaire with a Reatta or Allante (same rear shock) to buy 51% of Monroe...

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So one thing I have been pondering is this. Let's say that the shock is the perfect size and is easily retrofit to fit as a rear strut on the reatta.  Is the damping for that strut remotely the same as what was designed for the reatta? I worry that with the potential replacement being a front strut, that the damping is more tuned for the added weight of an engine.

 

I suspect that if there is excessively too much damping, the ride will be harsher.

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11 minutes ago, Philbo said:

Is the damping for that strut remotely the same as what was designed for the reatta?

That's a real possibility. We're in uncharted water so it's anyone's guess. I guess Monroe or another manufacturer would know but I doubt anyone there would tell you.

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19 minutes ago, Philbo said:

So one thing I have been pondering is this. Let's say that the shock is the perfect size and is easily retrofit to fit as a rear strut on the reatta.  Is the damping for that strut remotely the same as what was designed for the reatta? I worry that with the potential replacement being a front strut, that the damping is more tuned for the added weight of an engine.

 

I suspect that if there is excessively too much damping, the ride will be harsher.

That seems like a valid question. The weight distribution seems to be about 65%F/35%R

Edit: I think the unsprung weight difference is not that great. Same wheel and tire package, minus lighter brake assembly in the rear, plus axle and heavier steering knuckle up front, and I think that influences the damping rate. 

Edited by 2seater
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So I got the golf strut in the mail today. Unfortunately both the housing and the shaft are 5mm smaller in diameter to the Reatta strut. 

 

One thought is if you could use a sleeve to offset the housing difference, but I'm not sure about running a part with smaller dimensions, if it would handle the loads. 

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26 minutes ago, Padgett said:

What load ? Purpose is to dampen vibrations. 88 did not have one.

Discussion is about rear struts. '88s had 2 of those.

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12 hours ago, Padgett said:

What load ? Purpose is to dampen vibrations. 88 did not have one.

I have always been told, the difference between a strut and a normal "shock" is that a strut is also an integral part of the suspension, meaning it is carrying some kind of lateral/torsional loads.  Thinking of the front suspension, if you disconnect the strut from the knuckle, the knuckle will be able to just flop outward. It kind of acts as both the damper and the top ball joint. The rear suspension is the same isn't it? Or am I wrong? I honestly do not know as I have not had it apart yet. 

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Sorry, misunderstood "golf" strut for one on later engines.

For Reatta, front "strut" has spring, All movement is above lower tower. Rear is more of a shock with a transverse leaf spring.

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On 10/10/2022 at 2:09 PM, Padgett said:

Sorry, misunderstood "golf" strut for one on later engines.

For Reatta, front "strut" has spring, All movement is above lower tower. Rear is more of a shock with a transverse leaf spring.

My assumption was that the rear strut as well is bearing some load and not just acting as a damper, otherwise why would they have not just put a shock.  I am not sure where I would start in determining the stress the damper sees.

 

That said, I am going to explore the Taurus strutt next to see if the dimensions are better. The Taurus is a larger car so I would kind of assume a strut designed for that application would be plenty stout enough for the reatta (provided it fits)

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The strut on the Reatta not only acts as a damper it is an integral part of the suspension. It holds the knuckle so the camber is in correct alignment as the knuckle goes up and down. The knuckle pivots on one bolt in the lower control arm.  Without a strut to keep the knuckle aligned vertically, it will just flop over as can be seen in the photo below. The blocks of wood you see are to keep the knuckle from flopping over and putting a strain on the ABS sensors. Because of the side load on the strut, the rod is a larger diameter than a shock.

 

SAM_1757.JPG

rear strut shock.jpeg

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I looked for a strut that might be close enough to work on a Reatta with just a little modification. The closest thing I could find was a rear strut for a 1996 Buick Regal. Only problem is they are being discontinued to.

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I looked up that strut for the reagal and it looks like it is an insert. If I am looking at the right one.

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3 hours ago, Philbo said:

I looked up that strut for the reagal and it looks like it is an insert. If I am looking at the right one.

Look up on RockAuto a 1996 Regal, Monroe 801831 rear strut. I don't have any specs but it looks like a front strut without the spring perch. Bottom end would need to be modified if other specs would work. They have them on closeout right now for only $22.

 

monroe 801831.jpeg

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46 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

Look up on RockAuto a 1996 Regal, Monroe 801831 rear strut. I don't have any specs but it looks like a front strut without the spring perch. Bottom end would need to be modified if other specs would work. They have them on closeout right now for only $22.

 

 

The extended length is 3.5 in shorter on that one than the reatta's the travel is actually slightly larger though.  One plus it has going for it is it appears to have the same machining on the rod to accommodate the reatta's upper mount.

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I am also exploring the Koni Strut insert solution as well (Cut-a-Strut).  I found they have an insert that is a potential fit: https://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Products/Accessories/Race-Single/

 

Part on Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/kon-86101437race?seid=srese2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Brands | K&utm_term=4582214710584034&utm_content=GSAPI 5ba28802536b2

It would be these dimensions:

 image.png.b7651a1dd5046f0e5571920b1689b64c.png

 

The outer diameter is 43.5mm.  @jon L could you possibly measure the inside dimension of the housing on the one you are working on?

It is this dimension specifically:

1570278354_Screenshot2022-10-11214007.png.1ff7064e92785a456d8dfad25ff0e4db.png

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So just to share some more of my research.  I am also interested in learning if it is possible to source the parts to rebuild the original struts.  Here are just some videos on how they work that I have found.
 


Video from Monroe on how twin tube shock absorbers work.  It's very interesting, they pressurize them with nitrogen by adding liquid nitrogen to the outer chamber right before sealing it.

 

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Might be easier to machine a mount bracket for the knuckle/sway bar and use a standard shock. Just a thought.

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