Jump to content

Options for replacing rear struts needed.


lukehemstreet

Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, Philbo said:

Reply from Koni rep:

IMG_20221021_102918.thumb.jpg.5b1b351249e1e83bd1f7df4ba8de0c80.jpg

 

This is disappointing to me and I think too simplistic a view of the situation. How many inserts do you sell on a vehicle that has lots of production but many replacement options vs the reatta case where the production is low but no other replacement option. Also I think classic car owners such as ourselves are the type of people more likely to employ a solution like a cut-a-strutt.

 

I am not ready to give up yet. I might start a petition and maybe if we can get enough signatures they would reconsider. More on that soon.

 

That said, I am going to explore the generic ones that he mentions.

It is shortsighted to limit this to 4 production years of Reatta. What about the other “E body” vehicles…


The Toronado, Allante, and Riveria owners would purchase them as well…

Edited by DPS.01
  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/20/2022 at 8:54 PM, alchemist said:

Are the Koni cut a strut products still available?  If so, giving serious thought about modeling a billet machined adapter that would directly accept such an insert and include a sway bar attachment.   I can model the adapter and I work with quite a few machine shops in the Fox Valley in WI who could readily produce such an animal, I just need the dimensions of an insert that would work.  The outside diameter of the adapter would be the same as the OE strut so it would fit directly into the knuckle.  The ID of the adapter would be the same as the OD of the insert.  The depth of the pocket would be appropriate for the overall length of the strut to get everything to work.

 

Hoping to make a fully engineered solution.

Check out the front strut cartridge for a 1996 Buick Regal on RockAuto. They look like a possibility to use with an adapter. The one shown in the photo is a Sachs #030001 The downside is there is a good chance they will be discontinued soon to.

 

Part image

  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

Check out the front strut cartridge for a 1996 Buick Regal on RockAuto. They look like a possibility to use with an adapter. The one shown in the photo is a Sachs #030001 The downside is there is a good chance they will be discontinued soon to.

 

Part image

I have a set of the KYB version of this… 

 

Excel-G 366004

Compressed Length (In) - 13.39
Extended Length (In) - 20.24
Upper Mount Type - 16X1.50

 

Trying to find a set of donor struts to sacrifice to validate fitment. 
 

The completely bad struts on my Reatta are ultimately better than no struts. 
 

If the 1993 Allante strut works even moderately well, I will feel better about cutting into the OEM shot units on the car to see if this works. 

Edited by DPS.01
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, DPS.01 said:

If the 1993 Allante strut works even moderately well,

I hope these will work. 

  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Ronnie said:

Check out the front strut cartridge for a 1996 Buick Regal on RockAuto. They look like a possibility to use with an adapter. The one shown in the photo is a Sachs #030001 The downside is there is a good chance they will be discontinued soon to.

 

Part image

That is a gland nut style which would work, just the tube portion of the adapter would need to be longer and have a thread to accept the nut.  Looking at the limited options, the gland nut style is probably the best or only option unless the cut-a-strut units of an appropriate size are available.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, Ronnie said:

I hope these will work. 

Ok. 
I got to spend some quality time with the Reatta this afternoon. 

Cardone 1993 Allante Struts

 

They will fit with following modifications:

 

1.  Remove the lower rubber bushing and steel support for the original mounting hardware. 
2.  Grind a bevel on the sides of the bottom bracket once the rubber has been removed. 
3.  Flatten the round portion of the lower mount to make it slightly oval.  This will allow the strut to slide into the lower knuckle. 

 

Unfortunately this is as far as I got.  The overall extended length of the Cardone strut is too short to allow for it to pass thru the top mount on the Reatta (even with the suspension at full compression using a floor Jack.  As ErnieR stated, the top of the piston needs to be extended by 2 inches to allow for the upper mount to be attached.  
 

As others have mentioned, this strut may top out on full extension…

(Top photo) 
 

BD9AABC6-BAB0-4089-B640-86BF0A27CFD6.thumb.jpeg.d4a57b2d75f5fee2a5fc23b8df84a229.jpegD2B8325B-F99A-4AF6-B5BC-90FF01739EEA.thumb.jpeg.3ad6785e92f8e5eb25a3ef3fea9db9c6.jpegFD241EEB-4BCF-4A4E-985E-ACB96CF2B9AD.thumb.jpeg.746c2bd48a50154f7534c94886feb285.jpeg

I am waiting on mounts for the sway bar, but it should work (middle photo). 


There is not a lot of insertion depth of the lower strut housing into the knuckle, so I am looking at using a high strength bolt through the modified lower mounting hole as an extra margin of safety.  (Last photo)

 

I have not ordered extensions for the top mount as I need to validate thread size…. And my thread gauges do not fit the thread of the upper mount.  I believe it is 5/8 or 16mm, but do not know threads per inch or pitch….

 

Thanks to all who have willingly shared knowledge/findings. 
 

This site and the members have been awesome. 
 

Thanks. 

Edited by DPS.01
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

38 minutes ago, DPS.01 said:

Ok. 
I got to spend some quality time with the Reatta this afternoon. 

Cardone 1993 Allante Struts

 

They will fit with following modifications:

 

1.  Remove the lower rubber bushing and steel support for the original mounting hardware. 
2.  Grind a bevel on the sides of the bottom bracket once the rubber has been removed. 
3.  Flatten the round portion of the lower mount to make it slightly oval.  This will allow the strut to slide into the lower knuckle. 

 

Unfortunately this is as far as I got.  The overall extended length of the Cardone strut is too short to allow for it to pass thru the top mount on the Reatta (even with the suspension at full compression using a floor Jack.  As ErnieR stated, the top of the piston needs to be extended by 2 inches to allow for the upper mount to be attached.  
 

As others have mentioned, this strut may top out on full extension…

(Top photo) 
 

BD9AABC6-BAB0-4089-B640-86BF0A27CFD6.thumb.jpeg.d4a57b2d75f5fee2a5fc23b8df84a229.jpegD2B8325B-F99A-4AF6-B5BC-90FF01739EEA.thumb.jpeg.3ad6785e92f8e5eb25a3ef3fea9db9c6.jpegFD241EEB-4BCF-4A4E-985E-ACB96CF2B9AD.thumb.jpeg.746c2bd48a50154f7534c94886feb285.jpeg

I am waiting on mounts for the sway bar, but it should work (middle photo). 


There is not a lot of insertion depth of the lower strut housing into the knuckle, so I am looking at using a high strength bolt through the modified lower mounting hole as an extra margin of safety.  (Last photo)

 

I have not ordered extensions for the top mount as I need to validate thread size…. And my thread gauges do not fit the thread of the upper mount.  I believe it is 5/8 or 16mm, but do not know threads per inch or pitch….

 

Thanks to all who have willingly shared knowledge/findings. 
 

This site and the members have been awesome. 
 

Thanks. 

M16 - 2     I purchased a coupler and rod from from Mc Master Carr.  I might have purchased higher strength rod than actually needed kind of expensive.  May plan is to have the suspension fully extended and determine rod length by having the strut extend so I have to compress it about 1.5".  The idea being that the suspension will extend fully but not the strut.  

 

image.thumb.png.18a6fd794660fcb81224f975a212eef8.png

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, ErnieR said:

M16 - 2     I purchased a coupler and rod from from Mc Master Carr.  I might have purchased higher strength rod than actually needed kind of expensive.  May plan is to have the suspension fully extended and determine rod length by having the strut extend so I have to compress it about 1.5".  The idea being that the suspension will extend fully but not the strut.  

 

image.thumb.png.18a6fd794660fcb81224f975a212eef8.png

Thanks ErnieR!…that sounds like a good plan. 
 

If this becomes a workable solution, I will cut the removed OEM struts to see if the KYB insert option is feasible. 
 

The OEM strut I removed today had zero rebound… (a strut in name only)…..

A strong candidate for experimentation. 

Edited by DPS.01
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great work on the struts so far. Looks like it's going to work out if the extensions work and the strut will have enough travel..

 

In this photo I see what appears to be a compression fitting on a brake line. Although they will work, I don't consider them safe for a brake system. Just my 2 cents.

 

BD9AABC6-BAB0-4089-B640-86BF0A27CFD6.thumb.jpeg.d4a57b2d75f5fee2a5fc23b8df84a229.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I looked at a number of other sites for those 1993 Allante rear struts [of different brands] and they are way more expensive. I have 2 sets of Reatta stock rear struts in inventory and I still ordered the clamps and Allante struts. I may never need them but I know that when this part also dries up I'll still be able to sell this set up one day. As a matter of fact I'll probably sell the stock ones as that would be an easier sell and I know I can do the install of the Allante strut on my own.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

Great work on the struts so far. Looks like it's going to work out if the extensions work and the strut will have enough travel..

 

In this photo I see what appears to be a compression fitting on a brake line. Although they will work, I don't consider them safe for a brake system. Just my 2 cents.

 

BD9AABC6-BAB0-4089-B640-86BF0A27CFD6.thumb.jpeg.d4a57b2d75f5fee2a5fc23b8df84a229.jpeg

Good eye on the compression fitting, Ronnie. 

I saw that myself. 
I am not sure when that was done.  I have had the car for ~ 9 months or so and have not gone through it stem to stern; and top to bottom. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing I see as a potential issue with strut cartridges is the support for the bushings.  The Reatta struts mount at the top like shocks.  They need a support for the lower bushing.  001.thumb.JPG.3e69924447dca456d421a1ca92a031c9.JPG002.thumb.JPG.3d4a3c693d197d301337edde38d12973.JPG003.thumb.JPG.73f103820f834ff9b975474c2ccaba6a.JPG

Edited by ErnieR
  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There could be a low tech solution using two nuts back to back and adjust it to the correct position on the threaded rod, lock them against each other and that would form the bottom support perch for the lower bushing. 
 

The added bonus is that there is now a hex nut to assist in the removal of the top nut in the future… Eliminating the cussing and swearing when trying to take apart the upper mount after years of operation…

  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, DPS.01 said:

There could be a low tech solution using two nuts back to back and adjust it to the correct position on the threaded rod, lock them against each other and that would form the bottom support perch for the lower bushing. 
 

The added bonus is that there is now a hex nut to assist in the removal of the top nut in the future… Eliminating the cussing and swearing when trying to take apart the upper mount after years of operation…

My current plan, when I can actually get started on this car, is to match the body of the new to the old strut assuming I will eliminate the Cardone bottom mounts.  Then mark where the notch needs to be for the clamp bolt, and match the overall length trimming the threaded rod as necessary.  Just a plan in my head.  It may all go to pieces once I get to it.  My thought on installation and removal was to grind a rectangle at the top of the threaded rod to put a wrench on when tightening.

  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

47 minutes ago, ErnieR said:

My current plan, when I can actually get started on this car, is to match the body of the new to the old strut assuming I will eliminate the Cardone bottom mounts.  Then mark where the notch needs to be for the clamp bolt, and match the overall length trimming the threaded rod as necessary.  Just a plan in my head.  It may all go to pieces once I get to it.  My thought on installation and removal was to grind a rectangle at the top of the threaded rod to put a wrench on when tightening.

For my application, using the Cardone weldment between the bottom of the strut and the lower mount for the notch for the pinch bolt clearance, it is approximately 3” of additional threaded rod to match the length of the OEM strut. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I feel like a traitor.  I always check ebay for either a 71966 or a 71810 Monroe.  Hit a pair of 71810 just listed.  Used, but gently on a collector's Trofeo.  I paid a lot, $405 with tax but they are solid.  I was hoping for the air shocks.  I like being able to adjust them and love a little rake.  When I can I will make a measurement comparison with the Cardone units and my extension stuff and post.

 

001.thumb.JPG.6a0d14a73c123646edd519762d817fdb.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, ErnieR said:

I feel like a traitor.  I always check ebay for either a 71966 or a 71810 Monroe.  Hit a pair of 71810 just listed.  Used, but gently on a collector's Trofeo.  I paid a lot, $405 with tax but they are solid.  I was hoping for the air shocks.  I like being able to adjust them and love a little rake.  When I can I will make a measurement comparison with the Cardone units and my extension stuff and post.

 

001.thumb.JPG.6a0d14a73c123646edd519762d817fdb.JPG

You're only a traitor if you give up on offering advice...

  • Like 1
  • Agree 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

You're only a traitor if you give up on offering advice...

I will absolutely continue as if I was going to install the Cardones.  I may actually install them to verify the hypothesis.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...