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No Crank No Start


droid5977

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Hi All.

Well this is a new one. My 90' vert has been running great and have not had any major problems lately. However today I went and ran a few errands and came home and parked it in the driveway. I went out about an hour later to move it into the garage, turned the key and.... nuthin. It won't even crank. All the dash lights come on. I put it on the trickle charger for a while, but no go. Any thoughts?

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Dave is right. I could be the starter.

 

Also the battery cable connection could be dirty or the battery could be bad. You can take the battery to your local AutoZone or Advance auto parts and they will check the battery for free. Clean the cables and then read this: Battery Cable Checks & Repair

 

If the "Security" light comes on when you turn the key to the start position, it is a good indicator that the VATS/Passkey system is the problem.  Clean the key really good first and then read this:   VATS/Passkey System Bypass Instructions

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Battery is good, starter is good. Pretty sure it's my ignition lock cylinder. Gonna get a steering wheel puller tomorrow and see if that is it.

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It was the ignition lock cylinder. Little white wire broke. Installing a new one. Thanks for the help. And please don't shut down the Forum, Ronnie.

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I'm happy to hear you found the problem. One thing I like about my '88 is that id doesn't have the VATS/Passkey System.

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  • 8 months later...

Hi all:  Brought back this thread as it applies to my '91.  I had the ignition tumbler replaced a month or so ago because my VATS system acted up and the car wouldn't start.  After replacement, it was behaving great.  All ignition all the time.....then a week later it wouldn't start (as I was double-parked on a busy street).  Instrument panel lit, car just wouldn't crank.  Tried several times, nothing, then waited 5 minutes and she started up as if nothing ever happened, I thought it was a one-time quirk.  It is now about three weeks after the VATS tumbler was replace, and it happened again.  Same thing, tried several times, waited 5 minutes and then it started right up.  This is causing me a lot of anxiety as I can not feel comfortable taking the car out for a short or long drive and I'm on the verge of spending several thousand bucks on front cradle mounts, a re-paint and upholstery/carpet fixes.  Any ideas out there in Reatta-land on ignition problems or commitment to restore?

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I spent several years as an owner of different C4 Corvettes (84-96 cars).  They started the VATS system  in 1987.  The forum I was on suggested to simply clean the key.  You rub the ignition key with an alcohol soaked pad several times.  Insert it into the ignition while still wet and pull it back out.  Do this several times and let things dry out.  If you are lucky then this will help.

This did not help the 87 vert I owned.  I found out through diagnostics that there is something called the VATS control module behind the dash.  I replaced it with a used one and never had any more trouble.  I am not sure if the Reatta even has one of those.  The assembly manual for your car should have a "does not start" flow chart.  I had one for my 87 Corvette and that is what I followed to discover my problem.

Good luck mate.

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If what Ron suggested doesn't work try this;

 

It sounds like the 3-5 minute wait is a ground fault that is resetting sometimes you can hear it click. If the BCM senses a weak ground connection it will trip the circuit and disable the starter.

 

Check your Grounds especially the battery, those have a tendency to wear over time and not get a solid connection. I am talking about the bolt-to-battery ground side post the threads strip out very easily.

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Drove the car today, twice the ignition had unusual starts....I turned the ignition key in the tumbler to full start position and held very firmly in that position until it started.  It wasn't immediate, but took what seemed like much more than the usual amount of time for it to "catch" for lack of better word.  Please remember, the ignition cylinder was replaced just a month ago.

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... Check your Grounds especially the battery, those have a tendency to wear over time and not get a solid connection. I am talking about the bolt-to-battery ground side post the threads strip out very easily.

 

jglawnyc,

I think Frogware gave you some very good advice. I read your description of the problem you are having and I think it would be wise to clean the battery cables and tighten them securely. Move the cable as you tighten the bolt to get the best connection. Don't over tighten the bolt.

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If what Ron suggested doesn't work try this;

 

It sounds like the 3-5 minute wait is a ground fault that is resetting sometimes you can hear it click. If the BCM senses a weak ground connection it will trip the circuit and disable the starter.

 

Check your Grounds especially the battery, those have a tendency to wear over time and not get a solid connection. I am talking about the bolt-to-battery ground side post the threads strip out very easily.

 

In my experience with the VATS system, I've now owned four cars with it, I found that the wires that run from the VATS up the column, thru the key and back to the module, with all of the twisting that they are subjected to, during all of the starts, just fray and break.  The simple solution is to measure the resistance in the key chip, buy the comparable resistors and splice them into the wires under the dash.

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In my experience with the VATS system, I've now owned four cars with it, I found that the wires that run from the VATS up the column, thru the key and back to the module, with all of the twisting that they are subjected to, during all of the starts, just fray and break.  The simple solution is to measure the resistance in the key chip, buy the comparable resistors and splice them into the wires under the dash.

 

You may want to replace the ing. switch at the base of the column. But before you do, it is held down by 5/16 headed bolts and this switch is adjustable loosen the bolts hold the key in the start position and slide the switch up the column and see if the car starts, if it does tighten down the switch at that point and recheck, but I think you need a switch. If you change the switch , after you install it while it is still snug but NOT tight turn the key back to accessory and move the switch down the column till it stops then tighten. try starting the car and if it doesn't start loosen the switch just enough to slide it up the column while holding the key in the start position until the car turns over then tighten the switch at that point and recheck.

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When I first posted this thread back in January, it did turn out to be the theft deterrent relay. However, back in August I started experiencing the same symptoms. So I figured it was the relay again. I changed the relay out again, but the car still wouldn't crank when hot. This time it turned out to be the starter, or the solenoid, not sure which, but got a new starter and haven't had a problem since.

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