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I finally got a little time to work on the Mercedes today. I installed the new fuel filter and fresh gas. After purging old gas and air in the fuel line through the Shrader valve I turned the key and it fired right up. I drove around a few minutes and got a check engine light. Scanner showed a code P1444. Mercedes guys say it is common and usually caused by a bad vacuum line going to the purge valve, or it could be a bad purge valve. I cleared the code and so far it's not came back. I've not driven it much on dry rotted tires. I've decided my speed limit is 45 mph until I get some different tires. I hate the black paint. Every time I tough it the damn thing it makes it look dirty. 🙂 Below is a photo of how I think a Mercedes is supposed to look in a garage. Only thing missing is a mechanic (me) laying under it. Kind of reminds me of a Reatta. lol

This is probably the best, and most important, topic that has been started on this forum. We had a serious problem to solve with the rear struts being discontinued and no off-the-self alternatives could be found. We kicked around a lot of ideas and then came up with some good solutions to the problem. Solving problems and helping each other out is what the ROJ forum is all about. Thanks to everyone who participated!

I just ran through it again. at 3:17 it is closed loop and it is lean.

I bought a used engine from a salvage yard and their testing was all the cylinders were in the 175 range. I am in the belief that to be about where you want to be.

You need to find a complete running coil and icm package, just to borrow for temporary confirmation that the problem doesn't lie there. Another thing to check, and I admit I have lost track, is the vacuum modulator on the transmission. If the vacuum hose has fluid in it, the engine is burning transmission fluid. Fuel pressure should be adequate but it sounds a bit low. It could just be variance in the gauge calibration? I would expect 2-3psi greater pressure. I do not know what the California Prom calibrations are and your gasoline does not have a stellar reputation for its makeup either, so is some instability to be expected?? What are the readings from ED19 and ED20, Fuel Integrator and Block Learn doing in the suspect areas? Have you tried a vacuum gauge connected to the intake? A regular drop in vacuum may indicate a mechanical issue, sticky/leaky valve? I would think a solid 18+" of idle vacuum

There is a reason for that. Until you determine what that reason is you will probably not be able to solve all the other issues you are having.

RockAuto.com has no brick and mortar stores. Only warehouses and computer geeks that run the operation. Since that cuts down on overhead and labor they can price their parts much cheaper. Watch out for the shipping cost. It can add up. And if you want to talk to a human you can forget it. Amazon has an off-brand blower module for about $95 with free shipping. I've never used that brand but I wouldn't be afraid to try it. You can chat online or request a callback if you want to talk to a human when something goes wrong. Amazon.com: Boeeda 15-72530 Heating and Air Conditioning Blower Control Module Compatible with Buick Cadillac Chevrolet Corvette Heater Blower Motor Control Module 12484912 : Automotive

So responding to the idle problem it was caused by me my fat foot when I went to push the brakes I also just touched the gas pedal once realized the idle problem stopped. Car overall is Great a/c now works electronics seem happy just have the weird display problem.

Took the Red into the shop for a Rack and Pinion replacement. Worked for about a half hour before it locked up. At first they thought it was the power steering pump so I ran home to get one from my back stock. But before I got back they ran more testing and then determined the rack was no good. They tried a couple of parts houses and the earliest to get one is two days out [Wednesday]and then the install means Thursday before I get it back. Now that I let the Black go, now the car juggling starts between my wife's schedule and mine. I'm thinking this will be the next issue for us so I'm going shopping for another for inventory. BTW I bought an accumulator ball from Rock Auto on closeout. Checked with 2seater to make sure I got the correct cross reference one, but I paid less then $110.00. Saved about $130.00 on Amazon.

You can unplug the blower module.

Thanks for letting us know. We all benefit when we share information about what fixed a problem.

I don't believe there is any more that can be done for the peculiar information that comes up when viewing ECM data, as well as a single item in BCM data. The new Prom made no difference in the way data is displayed. The data does display the correct code for the ANCX Prom, so at least that worked. After a careful examination of the ECM and BCM data it was determined the data is in fact correct and displayed in the correct order but 2/3 of the labels or descriptions are incorrect. Essentially, if this was a 90 or 91 with only the data identifier number and the data itself, this wouldn't be a question. This case is closed for now. My son is pursuing the possibility of a slow leak in the a/c system but the system held vacuum overnight and using the R12 we had on hand at the time, which is a few oz. undercharged, the system is working for now.

Ok, I found a photocell. Not only does it work, it also cured the B119 error. BD44 shows values between 10 and 90. ...but still no background illumination. I'm starting to run out of ideas. The inverters?? Power supply module?? BCM?? Any suggestions? HAHA! My bad. Forgot to reconnect that 2A12-wire. Without that there is no power to the luminescent foil and the inverters. Gotta try that next.

Nice videos! I wondered the same as others when I watched the O2 in the rich zone, (above 450mv),and the fuel integrator locked at 128. That must have been at idle, and it is not unusual for the O2 to cool off and stop doing its job. When revved up a bit it started to go rich/lean and the integrator floated around 128. It will always read 128 unless in closed loop. That is pretty normal. Idle conditions, especially extended idling, will go rich. I am not certain why that is but it is one way to keep the catalyst in the converter hot. Your numbers, fuel pressure and engine sound are pretty good. Nothing jumps out to me. Even the FSM will tell you that the engine speed must be raised for a period of time to get everything online, even if the engine coolant is hot. Today, faster computers, heated O2 sensors and O2's before and after the cat are normal. Not so 30+ years ago.

I think that would be a good idea. When in open loop the ECM is operating on data tables stored in memory. When it goes into closed loop the ECM starts looking at the O2 sensor and probably other sensors as well to determine the proper fuel mixture. The readings you show in your video aren't the true readings you will see when the engine is in closed. loop. The ECM should be operating in closed loop by 170* under normal conditions. If not there is a problem keeping that from happening. See if you can get it to go into closed loop and post another video of your readings. By the way, you did a good job on the video. Very helpful. that looks like a really good scanner.

Did your O2 Sensor ever switch to LEAN? Have you done any checking of it? Jim

I posted to YouTube 2 videos. Fuel preassure test and diagnostics. Im not sure what to make of the B411 and E47h codes. Fuel preassure readings... Diagnostic readings...

Just to be clear, the coil/icm set can come from any LN3 powered car, Riv's, LeSabres, Pontiac Bonnevilles etc..

I haven't been able to locate anyone else with such ICM package. My only option in that area right now would be to purchase another reatta. I was proposed, a while back, to see a low mileage, garaged reatta, supposedly in pristine condition. But, no telling if it would be in order (likely to be sitting longer than this one)... plus, it'd be committing to owning another reatta...lol I'll have to purchase a vacuum guage. It seems I'm now in the process of repurchasing all the tools I lost years back. I'll take a look at that transmission preassure line. Im gonna go ahead and post a video (if this site allows for it) of the active readings. Honestly, im faced with a big learning curve here and a bit over my head. Learning alot though. I'm new to San Diego and don't really know anyone in this business. Aside from this forum... it's pretty much YouTube and I getting this done.

You can compression test at any time. I don’t remember any specific number but in almost all cases, balance between cylinders is most important. Aside from that, driving it as it is intended should give a good indication if further investigation is needed.

I now carry in my car the following; crank sensor, MAF sensor, Delco coil pack, alternator, serpentine belt, both the correct length and the bypass belt. Extra fuses and relays. In the parts bin I have almost too much stuff. More of the aforementioned trunk stock, EGR valve, brake pads, rotors, front/rear wheel bearings, wheel speed sensor, rack and pinion, struts/ strut mounts both front and rear, tie rods, ball joints, power steering pumps, Teves pump/motor, pressure switches, accumulator ball, freon, all the silver boxes, CRT, IPC, radio, temperature control module, blower control module, oil/air filters, spark plugs/wires, headlights/headlight motors, bulbs, all tested and ready to go. I'm sure there are more things I have but I don't like being down long as I like to think I can drive my car every day. Another item I am considering stocking is the drive shafts as I'm sure that will be another item to be discontinued. If I did stock those that would really ease my mind about parts being discontinued.

Just bought a Rack and Pinion. I looked at Rock Auto not so much for the price but how many brands. They are down to two of them. Also today while we checked around to see if we could get another one next day instead of 2 day from NAPA, both O'reillys and Federated showed out and no longer available. Not to be a "gloom and doomer" but I think stocking parts is the way to go.

Thank you for the reply. I figured it out. The spark plug with for the number 5 cylinder got into the fan and got cut in half. Driving it that way caused that part of the coil to go bad. Replacing the coil and spark plug wire fixed it.

When my crankshaft position sensor failed the engine sputtered like it was out of time and died. After coasting to a stop at a wide place in the road it cranked back up and ran poorly for a little bit. After that it would try to run but I stopped trying because I was on the side of the road in a safe spot and I didn't' want to take a chance on it quitting at a place where I couldn't get off the road. After doing a little testing I knew it was time to call a tow truck and get it home. My point is, experience has taught us you never rule anything out until you have proven that it's not the problem.

Now that you mention it, Dave had a crank sensor that was loose in the holder and it just went crazy.

It won't make any horsepower apparently. That's the sort of thing that sounds like fuel starvation. When I had my Prom issue I would get a severe bog sometimes and the changes in the running was all over the map. Eventually it failed bad enough it was impossible to ignore. I am trying to think what changes when in gear vs neutral. The ignition timing should tick up a couple of degrees to pick up the load, like 20 degrees to 22 degrees or so. I think EGR becomes active as engine speed increases in gear. Should be nothing at idle. You could unplug that to see if there is a problem there.

I am going to assume the fuel pressure was checked with a gauge and the new TPS is in the .38-.42v range at idle. It is hard to say if the ECM is acting up, but one thing can be done short of doing so and that is remove the ECM, remove and reinstall the Prom and clean the connections to the ECM and reinstall wiring connections. Be sure to disconnect battery ground before working with ECM. The ECM can be left hanging from the harness to see if that helps the running. It also keeps the ECM cooler while testing. No programming is required for a replacement ECM but the existing prom will need to be switched to the new ECM. I had some Prom communication issues last year but I was actively burning chips and fiddling with tuning and I got some very strange behavior, vaguely similar to yours, but...?

10-4 on that. Only part left was the hub and part of the disc. Another part that isn't stocked anywhere although the motor was available. Kinda speaks to the rare nature even though used on Billions and Billions of GM cars. (thank you Carl Sagan)🙂

They had enough clout to get some brake accumulators made. They state that the brake accumulators are reproduction to the original specs, which also probably means they are likely better than old stock that's been sitting on the shelf for 30 years. Maybe they are getting Monroe to make them some new stock.

Hey all, I got rid of the flickering, the problem persists though. Today was the day of Deconstruction. 😄 First of all (and unrelated to the flickering), I noticed that I have no background lightning on the switches and gearbox lever. That's when I remembered that I had a photocell code b119 in service mode. When I looked for the photocell I noticed someone hat crammed a 20amp fuse in the spot. There is no photo cell in my Buick. We then removed the ICP and noticed that a tab was broken and a plactic piece of one of the connectors was missing. Also, two pins in the back were bent (one on each connector). Somebody must have tampered with it before. So we straightened the pins and tested, no improvement. In the meantime I had bought another IPC from eBay, so we tested that one, still no improvement. We then checked the plugs on the BCM. Everything fine on that side. That was confusing. It's not the IPC, it's not the Photocell. The IPC must get weird signals, that's the only remaining options. So we tested a radical idea. We cut the 2A12 wire on the BCM plug (see red markings on the attached image). The 2A12 wire is a grey wire that controls incandescent dimming on the ICP. Cut the wire and attached a plug (so I can reconnect later). And -lo and behold- the flickering is gone and the cluster is dimmable (even w/o the photocell). So, workaround found. But what about the problem? Do I have a faulty BCM, because it sure feels like it? Thanks Pip Edit: Clarification: only the fluorescent bit of the cluster and the CRT dim. Not the bulbs.

I guess Im going to go salavage yard hunting. Not a lot of older cars with the correct 3800 series left in the bone yards in my area. Most all have been scraped. Thanks for yall's responses. Was hoping a member had an extra they were willing to part with for a reasonable price. I can return the favor if anyone in future projects has use for the correct Kent Moore tools like crankshaft sensor adjustment or correct Kent Moore flywheel lock tool. I would be willing to loan out by mail if they promise to return in a reasonable time frame. I like everyone else here has a desire to keep these unique and fun cars on the road as long as possible.

2seater's suggestion appears to have hit the target. Crank sensor was replaced today and the car appears to be running okay. Mechanic was able to get the car to stall when trying to start while the engine was hot. Evidently my crank sensor was in the process of dying for awhile.......always revived when the engine was cool/cold and then went to snooze when the engine was warm/hot (sometimes).

Looks good! For those who are interested, I have four sets for sale early next week. Two are somewhat spoken for, let me know if you are interested. $275 per set plus $50 shipping. See below for the initial samples of my offering.

I had two antennas repaired by Barney. He charges about $70.00 each plus freight. I had two that were broke so I sent them both in. Saved a bit on freight that way.

Half way to keeping four lucky Reattas on the road.

Here's my 1989 Reatta. Only one I have ever seen in real life. These cars are pretty much unicorns over here in Europe.

Well I just completed the repair of the headlight motor and replaced the crank arm and it works great now! The old bell crank did look like it was starting to wear out (I'll post a picture of it tomorrow), and all of the nylon bushings inside the motor were completely disintegrated. The nylon gear inside the motor was totally fine. Thanks a lot to @Ronnie, @2seater, and @Ron Walker for their advice. They were right on the money with what was going wrong.

Attended my first local cruise-in of the 2023 season. Spent copious number of hours last weekend spiffing up the Reatta prior to the cruise-in.

Way up (and I mean way up!) under the left side of the dashboard is the theft deterrent module. It has a 20amp in-line fuse...pull the fuse to disable the system. This will stop the system from horn beeping and lights flashing if there is an intrusion. Additionally, under the hood is a relay center. Relay "B" is for the horns. You can swap out one of the other relays to test if the "B" relay is any good i.e., horn now works. I'm referring all this from memory, so for what it's worth go for it.

Hi Ron, Sorry, I can't recommend a repair shop in your area. Do you have the skills and tools to do the work on it yourself? There are lots of people on this forum with the knowledge to help you troubleshoot it and fix it if you can do the work. It would be helpful if you would describe exactly what is flashing. Is it the touch screen in the center of the dash or the instrument panel? The more details you can give us the more we will be able to help you.

What part was ordered?

This is my favorite as it makes my Top Down convertible next to the Pacific Ocean look so eloquent.