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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/25/2024 in all areas

  1. Yes one of my horn buttons finally popped off/broke and I was facing removing my steering wheel and figuring out a better mouse trap. Don't know if I did, but check it out--I glued a pair standard foam earplugs, cutting a slot to fit along the plastic tabs, and glued the button back into place. Seems to be the exact depth, rebounds after making contact, and so far has stayed in place, even in the Los Angeles sun. I used Permatex clear RTV silicone adhesive. Too simple to be true?
    4 points
  2. Update: SOLVED! I was about to give up and return the Delco coil pack and ICM, but for fun I put the old Magnavox pack on and it wouldn’t work either! I did I did a little googling and came across this old post: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/332605-1990-reatta-occasionally-wont-start/ His problem was that the coil pack wasn’t grounded. I already thought of this, or so I thought. I double-checked and tightened the bolt where the ground wire goes from the engine to the frame. I had loosened it to get to the screws for the coil pack and I thought I had tightened it enough, but I hadn’t. Once I tightened the bolts for both the ground wire and the coil packs, both coil packs worked! It just wasn’t grounded “enough.” Of course I removed the Magnavox one and installed the Delco as has been recommended to me by many people. So the good news is that yes, a coil pack from a 3300 engine (in this case a Buick Century 1993) is the same part and will work. hopefully that opens up some junkyard options for people. Thanks for the helpful comments.
    3 points
  3. another project completed that made a huge difference in how the car was running and idling, i went thru the dx screen and codes , had a code for the cruise servo, ordered a new one on Rock Auto,. installation took all of about 20 minutes, maybe 30 once vac lines was replaced since the connection was cracked on the old one and broke off inside the hose, but once that all was done , took it out for a test drive and i guess that was one cause for vac leak and why the idle was slow and varied up and down. now it is steady and constant idle, and the cruise now works perfectly. Drove to work today and enjoyed being able to set the cruise on the highway for my 20 mile commute.
    3 points
  4. Try www.car-part.com
    3 points
  5. Today is the one year anniversary of me selling my Reatta. I owned it for about 17 years. I still miss my Reatta but circumstances dictated it was time for me to sell it. Because of parts availability, my age, and my health, I think I made the right decision. I have a Mustang now, but to be honest I still miss a lot of things about the Reatta. When I sold my Reatta I was asked if I would keep ROJ going. As you can see I have done that. The annual fees required to keep ROJ are now due. I intend to pay the fees again this year even though a few donations to ROJ don't cover them. I think ROJ How-to Guides are a good resource for Reatta owners and I hate to see them go after spending countless hours over the years to put them on ROJ.
    2 points
  6. There is what is called a "Blower Control module" and it is located on top of the fire wall under the hood. It is located just above the Blower. It is held in place with 3 each 7mm screws.
    2 points
  7. Okay, rather then complain about the dearth of parts not available, maybe take advantage of my extra pair that is available. Sure they are fabricated but the struts in this kit are exactly the same specs that the Reatta calls for with that cars mounting brackets cut off. Then brackets were found that allows this strut to be mounted on the Reatta seamlessly with the "alignment" groove in the correct location. It is a proven solution.
    2 points
  8. My Reatta sat in a garage/pole building (concrete floor, but no heat) for two years after my father was no longer able to drive. The interior was covered with mildew and there were several mouse nests under the hood that would smell like, well, hot mouse pee when I drove the car. Meticulous inspection from up top and under the car revealed all of the locations. Shop vac with crevice tool followed by steam cleaning got rid of the mouse issue. The interior cleaned up readily using standard cleaners and leather conditioners. I cleaned the carpets (without removing them) with our household hot water extractor unit and everything looks as good as it should for a car with 26k miles. I used Febreeze on the carpets and also sprayed some into the intake for the HVAC when it was running.
    2 points
  9. I saw a post by Marck on his Facebook page indicating he was working with another shock/strut manufacturer (not Monroe this time) to produce another batch of rear struts. I too have started to stockpile components and have two sets of rear struts, a set of front struts, caliper rebuild kits, ignition parts, etc. Though, putting on less that 1000 miles a year I may never need them, but there is a lot of emotional history with my car as it belonged to my father and I plan on giving it to one of his grandchildren some day.
    2 points
  10. back in the day when we were doing compass mirrors in our Reattas I also grabbed a couple from Olds Intrigue. They used a different harness from the Reatta but as luck would have it the harness is the same as the Regal making it plug and play. So now this directionally challenged driver has some idea where I'm going!
    2 points
  11. Start by pulling the glove box out and look around inside the dash from there. Just remove a few screws and it comes right out. Then pull the kick panel off the driver's side and look up inside the dash from there. I would avoid removing the brittle plastic parts if possible. Have you turned on the A/C and heat to see if the smell is stronger from the air coming out the vents? If it is you can remove the blower motor and blower control module on the firewall and see what you find in there.
    2 points
  12. so it was a low voltage issue, once i got the battery fully charged back up from it sitting for a week not driving it, the flicker is gone. Phil
    2 points
  13. The strut you need is discontinued. However there was a long post some time ago using a different strut from Monroe that had the same specifications, we were able to fabricate a working rear strut complete with the correct mounting bracket that also had to be fabricated. Marck at East Coast Reatta had contacted Monroe and had a run of 500 #71966 struts made but that is also now sold out. He was selling them for $499.95 a pair plus freight. I have one extra set of the fabricated rear struts available. My price is $375.00 with freight. Contact me if interested.
    2 points
  14. Car has been running great so much so that I drive it way more then the Reatta. I now drive the Reatta on nice days. Treating it like the collector car it is!
    2 points
  15. I had to run a wire from the engine compartment into the inside of the car to a toggle switch. I didn't do it the expert way. I did it the easy way. 🙂 If you look at the base of the steering column where it goes through the firewall you will find a rubber bellows like seal around the steering column. You can use a sharp pointed awl or similar tool to pierce a small hole in the rubber seal (smaller than the wire) and then force the wire through it. That will give a good seal around the wire and you won't have to drill any holes. Someone may have a different idea on how to do it but that worked for me without doing much damage to the car.
    2 points
  16. I am going to Walmart. $76.00 plus tax for removal of old tires, cleaning up the bead, putting on the tar product used to enhance seal, mounting and balancing of the "new" tires and then lifetime rotation.
    2 points
  17. I appreciate you being here. You do a lot to help people keep their Reattas on the road.
    1 point
  18. Thanks Ronnie for keeping the ROJ and How to Guides going. I'm not alone in expressing appreciation for your efforts. Contribution will be forthcoming.
    1 point
  19. One other thing I forgot to mention. When Marck of East Coast Reatta negotiated and then ordered 1000 each of the struts from Monroe, a mistake was made and someone from Monroe allowed Rock Auto to sell off from that 1000 each inventory. By chance I was on the Rock Auto website and bought some of that inventory before it was sent to Marck. I foolishly told others on this site [and the AACA site] and a number were bought by other private owners. This dwindled what was sent to Marck by at least 50 struts. At any rate because I bought from that inventory it allowed me to be able to offer the "fabricated" strut I fully intended to use on my car.
    1 point
  20. https://forums.aaca.org/topic/138583-fuel-leveldraw-problem/ found this discussion over on the AACA.org forum - and one other poster noticed the same thing he said "The second fuel gauge display just gives you a more detailed look at the remainder of your gas. My '90 coupe starts making noises in the tank, just before reading empty. I had to run out of gas once to convince myself that when the pump growls, I better feed the tank." so its hot out and maybe pump is not getting cooled or lubed? also in that thread one person stated there is a in the tank sock or screen so at some point i will pull the tank, put in the new pump. I think my sender is fine, so i will leave that alone for a while, not really looking forward to pulling a tank. Phil
    1 point
  21. You should check the wire splices under the seats while you have the carpet out. If you have water in there the splices can cause lots of problems. Wire Splice Repair
    1 point
  22. Dave, between you and I there have been 10+ sets of these struts made. Zero complaints.
    1 point
  23. My father tried everything. Mothballs, fabric softener sheets, etc. The only thing he did not try was feral cat.
    1 point
  24. I am sure the coils would work but I am not so sure about the ICM. The 3300 Buick does not have a cam sensor and uses batch fire injection. I do not know if they simply ignore the missing sensor and the ICM is the same, or if they are somewhat different and the pinout may be different. I would look online and compare ICM part numbers to see if they are the same.
    1 point
  25. Never tried a 3300 in a 3800 as there are so many 3800's out there, why take the chance. Try taking it back and exchanging it. The yard should have marked it so they know it's theirs.
    1 point
  26. Unfortunately the late models don't have the removable sides or it would be easy😑 I pulled the surround from the shifter and the complete storage bin from the console on my 90 and access was pretty good but not all the way to the front below the dash.
    1 point
  27. One of my old posts, dealing with a skunk smell
    1 point
  28. I do have an original set of front and rear Monroes ready to go on when needed. Ride still feels good and no leaks. So if I sell the original Monroe rear struts at $499.00 plus freight which is East Coast Reatta's price are there any takers? FYIW the Reatta is not like a Mustang or Camaro. Parts are not readily available and certainly are no longer cheap. I used to count on 1-2 Reattas and 2-3 Rivs every 12 -15 months at Gibson's my local You Pick, but no longer. If you want parts, buy them now as it's only going to get worse. Heck I even bought a rack and pinion for my parts bin in anticipation of them being discontinued...
    1 point
  29. I just looked at the last time I replaced struts [did both front and rear] on the Red. 12 years and 140,000 miles ago. If the next set I put on lasts that long I'll be 80 and the Red will have 470,000 miles. I don't think either one will happen...
    1 point
  30. Boy that's strange. The part of the strut mount that bolts to the shock tower and centers the strut rod looks pretty much identical to the OEM. I am guessing that if we don't align the spring on the strut perches exactly as they need to be, it's going to offset the strut rod. Given the forces at play there, it won't take long for the rod to destroy the top mount. Far as I can tell the only way to get it right is to mark the spring and the old strut before disassembly because once the spring is compressed with our DIY spring compressors for reassembly, it's pretty much impossible to tell how it's going to line up once the compressors are released.
    1 point
  31. My unscientific observation of the two styles of ignition packages is: the Magnavox type has more issues with overheat and melting of the potting material in the ICM, on the other side, the Delco style has more coil failures. The Delco style does produce a more energetic spark, which has been demonstrated in the past, but coil failure may be the side effect. In any case, I have heard recommendations that the coil(s) be replaced at the same time as the ICM in both styles as a defect in one part of the package can overstress the mating piece. I know I have never done so, but then I have changed engines in my car a half a dozen times so my experience is not the norm🙃
    1 point
  32. yea, i went thru that a couple weeks ago, they were pretty bad shape, looked like this— yes i lost a small piece i had to fish out with a wire hook out of plenum, not the case thank God the new one was not easy to install either
    1 point
  33. You can also remove the blower control module directly at the top of the heater plenum by itself or in concert with the blower motor. View from the top and insert vacuum from the right. Brake clean spray or other cleaning fluid sprayed on the face of the evaporator will help if there is a sticky film present.
    1 point
  34. I know Dave eschews instrumented help, and is pretty successful doing so, but he is also very experienced😁 I do lean more toward getting actual numbers. Nominal fuel pressure with engine running and vacuum line connected is ~35psi, so a good squirt from the Schroeder valve could shoot a stream dozens of feet in the air, a wet dribble won't cut it for starting or accelerating. Fuel pump is commonly available as a replacement part, not repairable.
    1 point
  35. I would also suggest removing the blower motor and looking inside with a flashlight and mirror to see if the evaporator is clean. The insulation that they used around the housing disintigrates and gets sucked into the fins. This is what mine looked like: I replaced this whole evaporator as part of a system overhaul, but one could probably just stick a vacuum hose in through the blower motor hole and suck that crap out without disassembling anything
    1 point
  36. I'm a pretty simple guy, don't use the manual, hardly go for codes, just do basic stuff. For fuel I take the cap off the fuels Schrader valve and press it with a screwdriver. If it givese a good squirt the fuel system is good. You talk about the cps, is that the cam position sensor or the crank position sensor. The cam position sensor only allows the car to run at factory specs. It will not give the hard running issues you describe, but the crank position sensor will. Try replacing the crank position sensor and tell us what happened.
    1 point
  37. Glad you finally got around to it. Maybe make a donation to help Ronnie run this forum. If you had taken it to a shop it would have been $150. for diagnosis plus at least an hour labor.
    1 point
  38. For the 1990, the ECU is behind the glovebox, but you access it by removing passenger footwell "roof". Just four small torx bolts and two wing nuts, all easy to reach. Well, if you are limber and don't mind working upside down and partly folded in half...
    1 point
  39. How to replace Crankshaft Position Sensor guide added - Reatta Owners Journal Forum - Reatta Owners Journal Forums
    1 point
  40. Any sensor can malfunction but not to the point of setting a code. Essentially, it can give bad info which may be worse than no information. Sort of why we recommend disconnecting a suspect sensor to see what if anything changes. This can be done for almost all sensors except the CPS and possibly the TPS. There is a vacuum line at the front of intake manifold that connects to the fuel pressure regulator at the front of the fuel rail. Pull the line and check for fuel in the hose. Any wetness indicates unmetered fuel into the intake.
    1 point
  41. I've had several MAF sensor failures that caused the same problem. Pushing the pedal very slowly would allow it to get back home, but there was very little power for getting up hills. If I remember correctly, unplugging it would force the computer to use a default value.
    1 point
  42. You got a great deal on those tires! I'm curious about how much it cost you, or will cost you, to get them mounted and balanced on your wheels? I did it in two steps for mounting my tires that come on the Mustang on the wheels Gary gave me. First I took Gary's wheels to the place I normally buy tires and had his old tires removed so I could clean and polish the wheels. That cost me $20.00 including tax for all four. At that time the service guy there said it would cost 25.99 + tax each to swap the tires from my old wheels to Gary's wheels when I brought them back. I thought that was high but I was already started down that road. When I went back and got the tires swapped to Gary's wheels I got a pleasant surprise. When I went to pay the service guy was gone and I talked to the lady who is the store manager. After looking in her computer and seeing how many sets of tires I had bought from them over the years, she told me she was only going to charge me $80.00 including tax if I could pay with cash which I did. She said she was counting the $20 I had already paid toward the total price. So I have a total of $100 in getting my tires mounted on Gary's wheels. I don't know if that is a great price compared to other places but I'm happy with the outcome.
    1 point
  43. It sounds like you are going down the same road I did with my Mustang by being proactive and replacing parts before they give problems. One of the common failure items on the 4.6 engine in my Mustang is the intake manifold. The original manifold was made of plastic and they were prone to cracking, especially in the front area around the thermostat. Lucky for me the previous owner noticed a coolant leak around the thermostat and took it to a dealership to have the manifold replaced. The new replacement manifold is aluminum instead of plastic around he thermostat so the new manifold should be less likely to crack. I'm sure you have replaced all the normal wear items like belts, hoses, brakes, etc. That's what I have been doing and found that even when you do the work yourself the cost can add up pretty fast. The good news is the money spent can bring you a lot of piece of mind knowing you don't have to worry so much about old parts failing and leaving you stranded on the side of the road.
    1 point
  44. In my earlier post on the front strut mount, I asked RadRide if he had any issues after installing the thicker mount. He did not reply but it now appears there may be problems with that mount. I managed to stuff that mount on the drivers side strut but despite trying several times, I could never quite center the strut rod in the hole in the pan that sits atop the spring. While I'm not sure how the height could affect camber, having the strut slightly askew seems a possible culprit. Rather than ask for more trouble, I'm going to clean up and reuse the old mount on the passenger side even though it means removing the strut assembly on the driver's side to do the same. RadRide90, did you manage to get the strut rod to center perfectly in the upper pan that acts as the upper perch for the spring using the "fat" mount?
    1 point
  45. Those wheels look great on that car Ronnie! Glad you got them. And you can keep talking about it if you want.
    1 point
  46. After cleaning and polishing up all of Gary's wheels, I had my tires mounted on them yesterday. I think they turned out looking good. That completes all the things I had planned to do to this Mustang when I got it. Now I can stop writing about it on here and just drive it and enjoy it.
    1 point
  47. There are three bolts from the pan into the timing cover. It does help to loosen the pan to allow a bit of clearance where the pan gasket and front cover meet. You do not need to remove, but all of the bolts down the sides need to be loose to get the pan to drop at the front interface.
    1 point
  48. You might also try installing a camber bolt that will allow for somewhat more camber adjustment then the OEM bolt in the knuckle. I like them because the installation is so easy and once in, alignment shops do the camber adjustment as part of the alignment without any additional charge.
    1 point
  49. or try www.car-part.com Very simple easy to use website. there's 4 of them within 200 miles of you for less then $200.00 with the lowest $70.00. You can drive over and pick it up along with the extra parts you also need.
    1 point
  50. About your unrelated question about the brake fluid reservoir and fill mark. I'll attach a photo of an article regarding brake pressurization and fluid level that I keep in my Reatta to show any mechanics that work on my brake lines that require adding brake fluid. Invariably, mechanics unaware of how the Reatta system works will over-fill. I got the instructions somewhere on the ROJ.
    1 point
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