Leaderboard

Run a second ground wire and see what happens.

If you place a test light between the solenoid wire and ground, you will get an indication if the power is consistently hitting the solenoid. I bought a handful of leds with 12" leads and the resistor so they operate on 12vdc. Doesn't add appreciable load and easy to use if made up with little alligator clips or pins for probes.

Good to know! I did trace it. And yes it's the relay center under the liner. When looking at it it's the lower right relay that clicks every time I hit the button to release the trunk. Oddly, while playing around with it, I found that one of the cramps was a tad loose on the relay socket. So I bent the crimp just a bit to make better contact to the relay. Still same results. I measured the voltage from the connector to ground, when I hit the button, saw 12 vdc. So, I continued to play around with it. I plugged it back in and started wiggling the shit out of the wire. Sure as hell I was able to get the solenoid to actuate. But not consistently. So im thinking it's the solenoid. Im not sure yet. I have the same results with my spare latch I found. So I think I may tear open the solenoid and see if I can repair it.

I don't know much about the trunk latch but have you traced what is actually clicking in the trunk area when activated? The reason I ask is; on the 90 coupe there is a relay center on the passengers wheel arch at the front of the trunk, under the liner. I know there are at least two relays that operate the the inner high filament for turn and brake lights. They only operate the high filament on one light bulb per relay. I know there are more than just the two relays and I am not sure what they operate so maybe that is the click you hear?? I know my 90 coupe uses a 1004 trunk light bulb, which is a two contact single filament bulb meaning it has a dedicated ground wire to that socket. Oddly, catalogs call for a 1003 as does the owners manual, but it is wrong.