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There seems to be some marketplace confusion about what strut mount fits our Reattas. Rockauto.com and EBAY both claim that this is the proper mount for the Reatta. It is obvious that the rubber insulator is far thicker than the OEM setup. After much reticence and considerable struggle, I managed to get the new strut and this mount installed on the driver's side. After posting my concerns on AAC Reatta forum, a member there noted that he too installed this mount only to have it fail within a week. His mechanic said this was not the correct mount and he should reuse his OEM unit, which he did. As I stare blankly at the passenger side, I wonder whether I too should reuse my OEM mount and a new bearing, or believe the vendors who claim the above is correct and stuff it into the strut assembly as I did on the other side. I did, however, see a mount sold as "GM Genuine 22178707", pictured below. The view does not allow me me to tell if it is like our OEM mounts or just another one like the one pictured above. Has anyone on this forum changed their front strut mount and if so, which version did you use?

I believe this feature started back either in the early or mid 70's. A friend of mine bought a new '75 Olds Cutlass and made mention that the HVAC did not totally shut off.

Note that in the circled photo, there are still two arrows coming from outside.

Members 7 Posted 17 hours ago (edited) Rebuilding the front suspension of my 90. With the knuckle off, I was only able to free the driver's side sensor by pressing it out using a C-Clamp. Soaking it in PB Blaster for a few days had no effect whatsoever. When I got round to the right side, as a psychological ritual I again soaked in PB with the same outcome. Here, however, the C-Clamp alone would not budge it. So I inserted a socket between the clamp and the sensor barrel. That managed to get it out, but the socket crushed the barrel in. I learned that the distance between the barrel and the teeth on the axle is crucial which means my sensor is toast. Just how toasted depends on whether: 1. The barrel is removeable, and if so how? If one can remove the barrel, does anyone have a barrel they would like/be willing to sell me? 2. I see no way to separate the cable from the sensor without making a very troublesome splice, which I would like to avoid [both the splice, and the test of my skills at making it] Assuming the barrel cannot be replaced, does anyone have a complete [that includes sensor, cable, and connector] sensor/cable assembly that I can purchase? [Yes, I am on my knees, begging] I searched to see whether the cable assembly is being aftermarketed. Though part number ABS600, which is supposed to be the Reatta cable assembly, does come up, what I see does not resemble our sensor assembly. Same seems to be true of the rear ABS speed sensor cable assembly, ABS1466.