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Edit: nevermind, culprit seems to be two fuses were blown/corroded

I agree.

The funny thing about the actual wiring connections vs the diagram from the manual, is they seem to be directly opposite? The numbers in the diagram do appear to indicate the hot wire is connected to the odd numbered terminals. But since it is electrically isolated, it likely doesn't matter, and there are many documented errors in the manual, so the numbering could be wrong as well? I know you can reverse the spark plug wire connections as long as they are paired on the same coil.

ROGOLD, I thought the same thing, I should not really see the o-rings so visible at the manifold if they were installed correctly. Oddly enough, the E044 code has quit showing und the engine is running fine now. 2SEATER - not a bad idea, I will replace the O2 sensor, it is a cheap maintenance item. RONNIE, I will test the EGR solenoids as you described. Thanks to everyone for the advice. All my auto school training was really on cars before this era that were carbureted, so I am catching up to speed on this Reatta.

I plan on printing a mold for the casting. The 3d printing that I am capable of wouldn't do well in that scenario, but some of the urethane / DLP stuff might be. That would be cool. I'll have to check on it. Oh yeah! Used them for body lifts on trucks back in high school. Didn't even think of that. Thanks, ship! It's the perfect rubber for that.

All of the coil pack assemblies I have are arranged as in the photo above. The triple blue wire is the 12 volt common to power the coils and is toward the left, or center of the car, when viewed from above with the harness connector away from you. I am not sure if a makes a big difference or not? The coil(s) would be reverse polarity I would think, but the waste spark system fires in forward and reverse polarity anyway.

Welcome to the forum! I'm having a little trouble following what you are saying but if you take a look at the photos below you can see how the Magnavox ICM should be connected to the coil pack.

Since this is a recent purchase, it would be a good idea to replace the O2 sensor just as a maintenance item. The comment about the o-rings above would seem to indicate perhaps some service work was performed incorrectly as well.

I think if the injector rail is bolted down correctly, the injectors should be pushed into the manifold far enough to where you dont see the O-rings. Maybe a pic if what you see will help.

I don't see how changing the timing chain could cause that code. Since it is sporadic the culprit might be a problem with the EGR valve. The EGR has three ports and one of them could be sticking in the open position randomly causing a lean mixture. I would check the EGR first before doing all the other work you described. BTW, you can open and close the 3 EGR solenoids using the onboard diagnostics while the engine is running to see how they respond. If you cycle them repeatedly maybe you can catch one of them sticking open when it should be closed.