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Good idea. I recently purchased a rubber pad for my floor jack that has notches molded into it that might serve the same purpose. I can't jack up my Mustang using the pinch welds because the pinch weld area has fiberglass ground effect parts attached to it. The main reason I bought the rubber pad is because the K member (cradle) where you jack up the front of a Mustang is slightly angled making it easy for a floor jack to slide off if you don't use a rubber pad to provide some grip. Using the jack metal to metal is dangerous and using just a block of wood isn't recommended on the front of a Mustang like mine. The rubber gives the jack a better grip on the K member, and the the pad has a lip on the bottom to keep it from slipping off the jack. For only $8 on Amazon the rubber pad is a good addition to any floor jack.

Returning from my trip to Arkansas for the recent eclipse. Lucked out with perfect weather and clear skies. Attached are three photos, one is my poor cell phone photo held up to the eyepiece of my small telescope and the others are from a kind lady from Texas who shared pics from her nice camera and lens combo. Bet you can guess which might be which😜

When you want to use a generic automotive floor jack, but don't want to mangle your Reatta's sheet metal...

Lately I have been having an intermittent ignition failure where the engine would die while I was driving. On attempting the second start [after playing Pickleball] I had a total failure. As most know I carry extra parts and 15 minutes later I had the pretested Ignition Module/Coil Pack installed. I believe the failure was the Ignition Module, the original one to the car. I had thrown away the old coils as the terminals were badly rusted/corroded, but I reused the ignition module. That got thrown away too. I then went to a You Pick yard and got another Ignition Module/Coil Pack and installed it taking the prior spare and once again put it in the trunk as back up. While I had a break down I was not stranded as I carry both tools and tested parts. To me this is a requirement when one attempts to drive 25 year old [and older] cars on a daily basis.

That explains the missing bolt! Thank you 🤨

That bar installs under the area covered by the oil filter adapter. It bridges over one bolt hole that is difficult to access and consequently you will be one bolt short of the total number of tapped holes in the pan rail. That bar should have a slight kink in it to apply pressure to the missing bolt. You can install a bolt in the open hole and delete the bar if desired. I think they are 1/4” SAE thread

Rock Auto shows different part numbers for the left and right seal 1991 BUICK REATTA 3.8L V6 Output Shaft Seal | RockAuto

Gregoryb, read below from previous posts on this topic: "Because I didn't want to cut and ground one of the headlight wires as mentioned in previous threads, I bought the H4 9003 Canbus Decoder (noted above) and installed one of them to the drivers side LED headlight harness. I didn't have to install the other one to the passenger side since the current harness for this side is actually a spur from the main headlight harness. The decoders do come as a pair, so I now have an extra. The LED headlights now go up and down as they are supposed to. Yea!! I want to thank everyone for your help and guidance." "I bought the LED headlights and Canbus Decoder from Amazon. Headlights cost $39.95: Amazon.com: H6054 7"x6" Chrome Housing Diamond Cut Headlights Replacement Glass H4 " 7x6 : Automotive D-Lumina H4 HB2 9003 LED Canbus Decoder Anti-Flicker Harness cost $25.99: Amazon.com: D-Lumina H4 HB2 9003 LED Canbus Decoder Anti-Flicker Harness, LED Bulbs Resistor Error Free Decoder, LED Warning Canceller Capacitors Resistor (1 Pair) : Automotive Handling, Shipping and Tax extra."

I'm almost there myself. I still do it but my body is starting to say no. Working on the Mustang to get it into great condition has been harder on me than I expected. All I still have to do is change the oil in the differential and hopefully I will be done working on it for a while. I think it will be the last car I ever buy to work on myself.

Today (4/2/2024) I took the '91 Reatta out and had it run through the MA State Safety Inspection (annually @ $35) and an oil & filter change (10W30 full synthetic @ $70.53). I also had them check the headlight alignment since I put in the LED headlights...all was OK. The oil change price is worth it to me only because I can no longer get under a car for any repair work. Reatta has been in hibernation since October 9, 2023, and is now ready for 2024 cruise-ins and car shows.