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I have acquired this Reatta back in September of 2023 and have been steadily working on it. Got it with 224000 miles and it’s up to 231000 now. Just replace all my burnt out bulbs in the front and back. I just did some vacuumed lines, and the nipple off the cruise control Modular’s is broken. The headlights don’t shine to far ahead of me as if they’re just slightly drooping and only come up fully at 60mph, as the wind catches it. Just rebuffed all the paint. So it’s looking bueno. The trim on the side door is broken off and the metal part of the trim was hanging off. I had temporarily secured it. End goal is I’d love to put a super or turbo on it without changing any of the ecu or that. I’d love to keep the screen as I have an 89. So if there’s any suggestions let me know, and sorry if this a terrible sentence as I’m using text to speech. And to ronnie you’re now a well known name amongst my friends and I as we look through all the old posts from the aaca forums from 03-09 and the post here. They’ve all been amazing sources. -ian 23yrs daytona Florida

Could be the fuel pressure regulator has an internal leak, causing the attached vacuum line to suck gasoline straight into the throttle body. or a leaky fuel injector dumping gas directly into a cylinder.

I'm almost there myself. I still do it but my body is starting to say no. Working on the Mustang to get it into great condition has been harder on me than I expected. All I still have to do is change the oil in the differential and hopefully I will be done working on it for a while. I think it will be the last car I ever buy to work on myself.

Today (4/2/2024) I took the '91 Reatta out and had it run through the MA State Safety Inspection (annually @ $35) and an oil & filter change (10W30 full synthetic @ $70.53). I also had them check the headlight alignment since I put in the LED headlights...all was OK. The oil change price is worth it to me only because I can no longer get under a car for any repair work. Reatta has been in hibernation since October 9, 2023, and is now ready for 2024 cruise-ins and car shows.

This is off the wall but... I'm wondering if the problem isn't with the crankshaft position sensor or associated wiring. It puts out two signals to the ICM. A 3x signal and a 18x signal. It can start and run on just one (don't remember which one) but maybe without both signals it can't go into ECM control of the spark and would throw a code E042 when it senses the RPM is over 600.

My original ECM had the PROM ASSU1614. I do not see the prom anywhere in the how to guide notes. I tried using the a different ECM with prom ASSU1614 and I got the E042 code. Either I got the wrong PROM or bad ECM. The diagnostic tree leads me to a faulty ECM. anyway to test the ECM?