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Yep, that is one of the weaknesses of searches on most forums. If you don't know what the key word is, or how the original post was phrased, it becomes a frustrating exercise. I had to cheat myself and search for my attachments to find one of the relevant threads😎 Incidentally, that part has increased in price quite a bit and you might do better to find a used climate controller since it must be removed to repair in any case. Jim Finn is a good source for tested used parts.

I had a 1989 Rolls-Royce Silver Spur for 10 years and put close to 60,000 mile on it. This was a great car, but in 1990 and each year after, "improvements" were made to meet emissions and safety rules. They took an absolutely wonderful car and turned it into something extremely difficult to work on. I sold it to a friend of mine and he now has it for sale at St. Louis Car Museum. Here is the link https://www.stlouiscarmuseum.com/vehicles/1024/1989-rolls-royce-silver-spur-saloon I am content to stay with my 2 Reattas, along with my two 1962 Buick Skylarks., 78 Silver Shadow, 41 Cadillac and 38 Cadillac.

I've been thinking the same thing. It's such a beautiful car I will have to go look at it and see if I can fit comfortably in it when he calls but I will have to get it cheap enough that I can pay someone to work on it who knows what they're doing. The people on the MB forums aren't as helpful as the people on the Reatta forums. I see that as a big drawback when buying something as complicated as the SLK.

Programmer MOTOR, A/C Electric Temperature and Motor Control -15-71882 /16144370 | eBay The original part number for the blend door motor is 16050729, superseded by 16144370. The add above is eBay, $85. Also on Amazon is the GM part for almost double the money. A relatively recent thread about the same subject.Reatta no heat - Reatta Owners Journal Forum - Reatta Owners Journal Forums

So I was driving down Midway Road in Menasha [for the benefit of 2seater] when a guy pulled up next to me and gave me a "thumbs up" on my Reatta. I wave d back and shortly pulled into a vacant store's parking lot to do some paperwork. As I was sitting there the guy circled back and said that he wasn't stalking me but wanted to let me know that his grandfather had a Reatta years back and he always liked them. I asked him if it was a 1990 or newer one and he wasn't sure so I showed him some of the features of the touch screen. He was really impressed, so hope I made another friend today...

There aren't body mounts in the conventional body on frame sense. There are drivetrain cradle mounts, specifically six of them in the front, which are detailed in the "How To" section at the top of this website. The most common replacement is the Dorman mounts with new GM bolts. They work well.

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okay so I see the three torx screws, and I can see the piece of cardboard. i am trying to pull the gray panel under the dash but I do not see the cluster of vacuum hoses. i am having some difficulty there.st this point I have identified just about everything so I will take another crack at it tomorrow. any little tips on finding and unhooking the vacuum hose cluster>

Seeing you are new to the Reatta forums allow me to let you in on a secret [and this isn't directed at just you but all the "Newbies" that come on line here]. 5 years ago you might have gotten 10 guys to give you responses but they are all gone now. Even the Reatta Technical Advisor on the AACA Reatta Forum hardly offers advice. There are really only three of us left. 2seater, Ronnie and myself. So if you get a response at all [on one site or the other] consider it "Golden" and start in. This isn't a Mustang, Corvette, or Camaro forum where hundreds of thousands of cars were sold, the Reatta sold less then 22,000 over 4 years so parts and advice is getting scarce. So allow me to add to what 2seater already told you; The top screw to remove the controller is the hardest one to remove and when you reinstall the unit leave that one out, it's really not needed. The cardboard that 2seater refers to is like the cardboard on a scratch pad, it's that high tech and is held in place by strapping tape. Once that is removed you will see that the motor is right there waiting for you to remove it. I commend you for figuring out what is wrong and actually getting a replacement part. Jim Finn has a number of these for sale, pretested and he is reasonable in pricing. He is an excellent source for parts. There are a lot of other parts that you might want to look at obtaining if you plan on keeping your Reatta for any length of time. The 1990 Reatta only, one year only, headlight switch, instrument cluster [88-92 Reatta and Riv], teves pump and motor, teves pressure switch and ball [89-90 on the pump/motor, 88-90 switch and ball], struts/strut mounts both front and rear, ABS sensor leads. And for other year owners, the Reatta only headlight switch [88-89], CRT and instrument cluster [88-89 Reatta and Riviera].

I looked at the '89 manual. I could find no instructions for removing the motor from the programmer. There are minimal instructions for removing the programmer from the dash. The instructions you get from 2seater are better.

Has the HVAC controller been removed? I don't see removal instructions in the How To guides in this forum either, but I can give a very rough idea of removal from memory. The panel under the glovebox area of the dash and the glovebox and door must be removed. I believe all the mounting screws for the controller are T15. I think there are two on the lower part and there is one at the top that is accessed through the glovebox, and is a pain to get to it, at least it was for me. The electrical connection and the vacuum tubing are all on the bottom of the controller. As mentioned above, the vacuum tubing comes off as an assembly, secured by a very small nut in the center of the bundle, 7 or 8mm IIRC. The controller has a cardboard or stiff paper cover over the inner workings. The motor above is retained by a couple of screws in the top and the wiring unplugs from the circuit board.