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I got my ‘88 three years ago with 57,000 miles on it and have been chasing leaks and ignition issues ever since. We replaced the valve cover gaskets which stopped the oil leaking for awhile. Then the oil pan gasket started leaking, replaced that which revealed the filter adapter gasket was leaking. Replaced that and had no leaks for awhile. When the crank sensor failed and I was under the car troubleshooting , I discovered transmission fluid leaking. Re torquing the pan bolts solved that, but now the oil pan or filter adapter is leaking again. I’m on my second or third ICM and the second coil pack. This is the reality of Reatta ownership…

Oh Yeah. You would be surprised what a Reatta can do. 🙂 I recommend you find a good mechanic familiar with GM products of that vintage with a lift to make the job easier.

Today I drove mine home for the first time!

327,700 today. Should turn 328,000 by Friday...

I use sandpaper and brake cleaner. I don't believe that plate is going to work. GM for a couple of years used a transition plate as they were converting from Magnavox [square coils] to Delco [round coils]. This transition plate has the three screws sticking out of it so it can mount on the Reatta bracket. Then there are 6 threaded holes in it for the Delco unit to screw down into the transition plate. The 6 original screws on the Reatta are not the same size as the 6 Delco screws are. The transition plates are getting hard to find.

Many possibilities, but cleaning the IAC is a good place to start for an unstable idle. Be sure to put a rag or something below that area when removing the screws which are non magnetic stainless steel. From the way it is worded, it sounds like the ICM and associated hardware is going to be changed, but it has not been done yet? If that is the case, doing so may fix multiple issues, especially if the original ICM shows signs of overheating.

Thanks guys I managed to remove it and can go on with my rebuild. Incredibly stuck bolt and the pulley itself.

About 80,000 miles ago I did the Eldorado rear brake swap. About two weeks ago I got some grinding coming from the rear wheels and figured it was time for rear brakes. So to be sure I ordered rear calipers from Advance Auto [in case the caliper plunger wouldn't retract] and already had rear rotors and pads in my parts bin. Went to Kendalls to also do a brake flush. Discovered that a pad had delaminated and had disappeared leaving me only the mounting plate. But as long as I was there did pads, both rotors and am keeping one caliper as both rear calipers were in good working order [both sides use the same caliper as one is mounted on the front of the wheel, the other on the back]. As there was about half the pad remaining I probably wouldn't of had to do the brakes at all at 80,000 miles except for the failure of that one pad. Long life due to mostly highway miles and that the front brakes does most of the stopping. And the front pads and rotors were done about a month ago.