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My 1990 Reatta with 87K miles needed new struts all around. The job seemed more complex than simply changing shocks on my 1950's classics. But thanks to the guides here on ROJ, I'm proud to say I did it successfully. Some shops gave breathtaking labor quotes, more than my budget is comfy with. So I read through the guides here on ROJ, took my time, with an excellent outcome. All 4 original struts on my Reatta were totally shot. They weren't leaking, but they weren't absorbing road shocks. The pistons just dropped into the bores. I assume every Reatta that still has the original 30+ year old struts either needs or will need new struts. I bought the previously unobtanium rears from ECRP, and Monroe front and new mounts from Rock. ECRP says Monroe will not do any more runs or our 71966 rears, so suffer the ECRP price and get 'em while you can. After following the guides on this site and finishing the strut job, I'm very impressed with the newly refreshed ride, and proud that I was able to do the job myself. I have an appointment at an alignment shop this week, mandatory after changing front struts. Here are some tips from replacing the front struts I will share. This $13 tool from Amazon made it easy to deal with the nut on top of the front strut mounts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BKZXJ881?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details I ordered front strut dust cover bellows from 2 vendors that claimed their bellows were correct for Reatta, but the "bump stops" didn't fit. I modified the bump stop on the KYB bellows, and it functions perfectly to hold the bellows in position, while fitting into the upper spring seat plate. The supplied bump stop was too tall, interfering with the strut mount, and the inside diameter of the bump stop was too small to fit on the strut piston. My Dremel tool solved both problems. Description of 13 photos: 1. original strut - note the broken bellows. When the strut was unbolted from the strut mount, the rod sank into the bore...totally shot, but not leaking fluid 2. New KYB bellows inside diameter at gripping lip at top is larger than original. Can't use the original GM orange dust cover retainer/bump stop which requires smaller diameter sealing lip on the bellows 3. New KYB bellows with original orange GM dust cover retainer/bump stop, and the new bump stop included with KYB bellows. I cut the KYB bellows at top and bottom, and reamed out the inner diameter to match the GM original 4. New KYB bellows with original orange GM dust cover retainer/bump stop, and the new bump stop included with KYB bellows. I cut the KYB bellows at top and bottom, and reamed out the inner diameter to match the GM original 5. KYB bump stop with crown cut off, inserted into upper spring seat plate. Crown must be cut off so that strut mount fits correctly on top of spring seat plate 6. lower side of spring seat plate with KYB bump stop installed, cut shorter 7. KYB bellows pushed onto modified KYB bump stop, with a smear of JB Weld to permanently attach the bellows to the new bump stop 8. New front strut and strut mount with spring compressor 9. 24mm strut nut tool from Amazon 10. Strut nut tool with 50mm torx bit for original strut, and 10mm hex for the new strut 11. This inexpensive tool is much better than clamping the polished chrome rod with vice grips to keep it from turning 12. New strut assembly ready to install 13. New strut installed

Ship other then a "true" parts seller I think you and I have the most parts. I believe other then body parts, engine, transmission we could replace almost anything. I am seriously thinking of buying drive shafts to go with my rack and pinion. I even have a windshield, suede 16 way bucket seats and a new after market radiator in my parts bin. But then again my local You Pick has at least 6 Reattas and 7-8 1988-1993 Rivs in it. Mostly picked over but still... My two mechanic friends don't believe it when I don't have a part already in inventory.

My most recent Reatta photo...

I checked my IPC inventory today. I actually have accumulated five extras over time (didn't know I had that many). I've not tested any of them as of yet but will put that on a "to do" list shortly. At a time back in the day, I owned two 7th gen Rivieras and two Reattas, all at the same time. So, I must have justified the need to have "a few" in inventory just in case.

A friend of mine passed away and left a 1989 Reatta. His wife asked me if I could sell it for her. For sale 1989 Reatta red with gray interior, 172,700 miles, has not been driven sense 2014, everything that is needed to dive the car works. The head lights open and close and the lights come on, both windows go up and down. The turn signals work, tail and brake lights work back up lights work, trunk and gas door both operate from the glove box, the windshield wipers work, both buttons lock and unlock the doors, the engine runs well no smoke from tail pipe, the transmission shifts ok, minimal rust on both quarter panels, the car appears to be as delivered from the factory, the spear tire has never used, the only thing missing from the trunk is the hubcap removal tool. The rest of the stuff either works part way or not at all. Things that I did before starting the engine, changed the engine oil and filter, drained the gas tank, installed a new fuel filter, installed a new battery. I have a clean title and authority to sell the car. The car is located in North West Indiana (Lake County). The asking price is $2,000.00 OBO, Cash only, if interested call Bill 219-771-3361, if I don’t answer leave a voice mail I will return your call. If interested more pictures or video available.