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On newer electronic ignition systems like the Reatta has, I expect to get 100k on a set of plugs. I usually don't check them before that unless I suspect a problem. I guess the type of plug you use would make a difference. I buy good plugs but not the super expensive ones.

I put blocks of wood under the bottom to limit how far the knuckle can lean out when the strut is removed. That prevents putting a strain all the hoses and cables attached to the caliper.

Great thanks, I won't remove the calipers and will be cautious the the ABS wheel sensor leads. I replaced all 5 rubber brake hoses. While doing so, I noticed the plastic insulation on parts of the ABS wheel sensor coax leads was crumbling. I just peeled off the crumbled plastic, and recoated the bare wire with 3 coats of black silicone sealant which should protect the leads without having to remove them for replacement. Maybe not as pretty as brand new leads, but should do the job and be durable.

I must say that I do not have a regular schedule for spark plugs. I split up time and miles on a few vehicles so I am a poor judge but if in a questioning frame of mind, pull an easy one to get to and give it a looksee.

Just to amplify what Ronnie said: the three openings are also different sizes, small through large, relatively speaking. You could try tapping on the solenoids to see if it helps the idle. It sounds like a pintle is stuck open if the rough idle/stall is a current problem. You can also go to overrides and cycle the individual solenoids to see if that helps free up the valves. It could also be a chunk of carbon holding it open.

Welcome to the forum! The EGR valve has three separate openings inside that are controlled independently by the ECM. I would check to make sure the EGR making a good electrical connection, then clear the codes and see if any come back.

No there just on even when the key isn’t turned