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If your problem is similar to the following, then perhaps your IAC needs to be cleaned. "The most common symptom of a dirty Idle Air Controller (IAC) is an erratic idle speed or surging when the car is stopped with the transmission in drive. Stalling may occur in some cases." This is covered in detail under Common Problems as written by Padgett in the Forum's Menu Bar.

I've just brought mine back from not running since 2004. Some direction.... 1- I too, seriously doubt your transmission has anything to do with your problem. Or your thermostat. 2- the car has been sitting for 15 years, you are going to have a lot of reoccurring problems if you just started it up and didn't address the fuel system properly beforehand. Hopefully you got the old gas out. If you didn't, then my guess is that's your problem. Change your fuel filter. Blow out the lines. In my case, 4 out of the 6 injectors were bad, that might be a problem, too. Also in my case, the gas tank was powder coated and so was pristine inside, my fuel pump was fine but the insulating sleeve around it had disintegrated leaving junk in the bottom. I'd never start a car sitting for a long time without dropping the tank first. 3- A wise person once told me don't throw parts at it, it will just make you broke and mad. Do some diagnostics. An engine needs fuel, air, spark and compression. Start with one and don't proceed until you're sure you have the variable you're testing for. 4- Although my dash is different, it also didn't work and you're just dead in the water without it in these cars. I sent mine to Cluster Fix and he did a top notch job. I don't know if he does the computer screen on your car, but you might try calling him and ask. I'd also check the ground behind the battery and clean it. May bring it back to life. Hope I've given you some direction. -derdachshund

I did the OBD. The TPS readings are exactly what you said with the key on but engine not running: .38 foot off the gas pedal, 4 gas pedal floored. Does the engine need to be running for an accurate OBD TPS test? The stumbling happens when the engine is warm, never cold. When I converted from Magnavox to Delco, I bought a new Delco ICM from Rock and a set of 3 cheap aftermarket coils from Amazon. The Reatta was absolutely perfect for a day, then the next day it wasn't ok, back to stumbling when warm. I checked fuel pump pressure, good. I wonder if the new Delco ICM went south and only worked for one day? I'm sending the cheap coils back to Amazon and purchased 3 new Delco coils. Waiting for new plug wires, '91 Delco length because the wires for Magnavox are not the correct length for Delco as you know. I ordered a new fuel filter and will change it.

You are pretty much blind to what the car can tell you, and that's important. A compatible scanner connected to the ALDL might be a temporary alternative but a good used one or a repair is the best route. I do not know much about the touch screen replacements

It's normal for that to happen if the car has been sitting overnight or hasn't been started for a long period of time during the day. It stays on until the pump builds pressure in the accumulator. The yellow ABS light will be on anytime the red warning light is on due to low pressure in the system.