Leaderboard

I used the scanner to adjust the TPS. I set it right in the middle of given parameters. That is a historic code 22 as it was far below prior to my adjustment, upon install. I did notice that it takes a while to warm up into closed loop. If I shut it off and restart... it restarts in open loop and takes a few minutes to close again. While open, you can smell the fuel in the exhaust. When it closes... exhaust smell is clean again. When I had it preliminarily tested at the smog station, I had shut it off and restarted 10 min later. It would have been, most likely, in open loop at the time... which is why the initial test was rich. I will keep it running and have them re-test. Got half the paint correction looking good now though

When I was having serious vibrations issues with my 38 Cadillac I searched the web. What i found was Weber Auto at Weber State University. They have excellent videos on many subjects. Included was the video below on the NVH (Noise-Vibration-Harshness) App for both iPhone and Android phones. It is now $99.00 to download. It was much higher when I purchased it. It helped somewhat but difficult for me because of short term memory issues. This app uses the sensors in your phone to measure the vibrations. You input the various ratios of the rotating components of your car, (transmission/drive shaft, rear end, tires) then road test the car and see what is vibrating. One of the features I found interesting is you measure the engine vibration directly on the engine, then place the phone on the chassis to see how well your engine/transmission/body mounts are doing. If your not familiar with NVH, watch some of the other video's, there is a bunch to choose from. Jim https://www.youtube.com/@WeberAuto/videos

I think MB uses something similar in place of u-joints. They call it a "flex coupler". I'll check those out when I check the differential.

I saw that low TPS voltage text too but the reading itself appeared to be spot on .40v? My idle isn't completely stable either. The rpm fluctuates up and down a bit and I always considered it to be normal?

The idle on my engine fluctuates like that sometimes. I don't think what yours is doing is a problem. Looks like your scanner shows that you have a code 22 (low TPS voltage). Did you adjust the TPS after you installed it? I don't think that would cause the vibration you are getting but you need to get rid of that code.

I don't see anything wrong with that scan. The O2 should jump all over from below .450v to above and back, the more times the better, and that is what the cross counts are, transitions from rich to lean, over and over. The fueling numbers, integrator and block learn, also look good, staying around the target value of 128. LV8 (load value) is a sort of made up value. It is a combination of various inputs or sensors to calculate the load on the engine, but it is never zero. It is used as one axis of the spark timing table, with rpm being the other. The maximum value is 256.

The saga continues. The second rack they put in was different from the get go. I had to much slack at the steering wheel and if I would go into a curve and start to turn the steering wheel it would give a quick skip and then work fine for the rest of the turn. I hoped it would clear up thinking there was air in the lines, but that wasn't it. So I crawled under the car for a look and to be honest I was glad to see it leaking at the inner bellow on the driver's side. So back to the shop to get scheduled for yet another one. This time NAPA only has 3 in the country all out West. Install is scheduled for a week from tomorrow. I'm going to cancel the order of a rack for my back stock as I don't trust the rebuilders and I don't want to watch a stored part go out of warranty leaving me no recourse.