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Save thanks for the heads up about left and right ABS definitions. Looking at the wiring diagram a tan wire goes to the right wheel sensor, that is what I have. Someone cut the wire right at the connector end, that may be a bit difficult to repair. Considering LEFT and RIGHT, I am 84 years old and never learned my left or right.. When in the Air Force I had to carry a rock in one of my hands, but the DI never called out ROCK turn. The large ships on the Great Lake are required to have large signs LEFT and RIGHT above the windows so they can communicate with non mariners. Jim

The Reatta 71966 (Monroe) and Regal 71831 (Monroe) are the same base strut with the same engineering parameters (same case, OD, length, stroke and valving). The difference is how the strut holds the knuckle into position. The Reatta uses a pinch bolt setup to hold the base of the strut in position, whereas the Regal uses a more traditional two-bolt bracket setup. If the brackets are removed from a Regal strut, the pinch bolt 'dimple' added and a bolt on sway bar adapter used, they are a direct replacement. ECRP (East Coast Reatta Parts) is offering new units, made by Monroe, for $500 per pair, plus shipping. The modified versions I am offering are $325 including shipping. Others have done this same modification and it has worked. Just offering the modification for those who do not have the means to do it themselves.

The 1991 Reatta wheel speed sensor is a one year only sensor lead. A Buick Riviera also uses the same lead but I am not sure what other cars use them. You will not get a salvage yard to cut out a lead for you, you must buy the "knuckle" or wheel assembly. My best advice is www.car-part.com to find a 1991 near you and visit that yard. To test; Track the lead through the inner fender to the engine compartment and disconnect the lead from the car harness by squeezing the lead plug on the flats and pulling them apart. Test with an ohm meter, any resistance is good. There has been much discussion on which side is right or left. Standard practice is that sitting in the driver's seat the right side is the passenger side. It has been my experience that in regards to the ABS leads, as you face the car at the engine compartment the right side is the driver's side. That has been my experience with the 1988-1990 Reattas.

Yesterday afternoon when driving the Mercedes the check engine light came on. My OBD2 scanner works on it and it found a code P1444. A little searching on the Mercedes forum found that it is a common problem of the purge canister valve sticking open. This morning took the valve off. It was an easy job to remove since it right out in the open so you can get to it. I sprayed MAF sensor into the opening where the vacuum lines connect and let it soak for a while as described on the Mercedes forum. Reinstalled the valve and went for a drive through the country. I drove for about 70 miles round trip and the check engine light didn't come back on. Maybe I can check that off the list of things to do to the Mercedes. I still have a pretty big list of maintenance items to take care of. Front brake pads are worn, Dry rotted serpentine belt, Broken antenna cable, Bad power mirror switch, Sagging headliner, Paint needs buffing and waxing. Waiting for the parts to be delivered from Amazon. I've still got plenty to do when the parts arrive. 🙂

That is a good number. There is a lead on the drivers side and passenger side. there are also one on each wheel in the rear of the car. I would check them all.

I did look through that three year old thread and around page four or five, we did in fact change the ECM. The O2 sensor came to life and closed loop engaged. I cannot tell you if one or the other would cause it to stay open loop, but it did require a donor ECM to get everything to work properly.

I would need to go back over the saving from the crusher thread to confirm, but I think we wound up replacing the ECM because of O2 and open loop issues. The clue was notations in the history someone was keeping in the car that the O2 was changed multiple times making it likely they were chasing a problem of some kind.

After all this, have you tried disconnecting the MAF again? If the fuel pressure drops relatively quickly on shutdown, it probably leaks internally in the fuel tank. My experience on a warm engine, the fuel pressure rises initially on shutdown as the heat expands the trapped fuel. Some pressure decay is normal over time. You have covered the other problem areas. Fuel pressure certainly doesn't appear to be the problem while running. It is such a specific rpm band, it would almost seem to be programmed? Getting closer to ECM and/or Prom.

You can park it in my garage. I am one car short now that I sold the Black '88...

I guess Im going to go salavage yard hunting. Not a lot of older cars with the correct 3800 series left in the bone yards in my area. Most all have been scraped. Thanks for yall's responses. Was hoping a member had an extra they were willing to part with for a reasonable price. I can return the favor if anyone in future projects has use for the correct Kent Moore tools like crankshaft sensor adjustment or correct Kent Moore flywheel lock tool. I would be willing to loan out by mail if they promise to return in a reasonable time frame. I like everyone else here has a desire to keep these unique and fun cars on the road as long as possible.

Sadly, my subdivision rules don't allow any portable buildings or structures. I would have to build a garage that matches the house.