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I bought a used engine from a salvage yard and their testing was all the cylinders were in the 175 range. I am in the belief that to be about where you want to be.

You need to find a complete running coil and icm package, just to borrow for temporary confirmation that the problem doesn't lie there. Another thing to check, and I admit I have lost track, is the vacuum modulator on the transmission. If the vacuum hose has fluid in it, the engine is burning transmission fluid. Fuel pressure should be adequate but it sounds a bit low. It could just be variance in the gauge calibration? I would expect 2-3psi greater pressure. I do not know what the California Prom calibrations are and your gasoline does not have a stellar reputation for its makeup either, so is some instability to be expected?? What are the readings from ED19 and ED20, Fuel Integrator and Block Learn doing in the suspect areas? Have you tried a vacuum gauge connected to the intake? A regular drop in vacuum may indicate a mechanical issue, sticky/leaky valve? I would think a solid 18+" of idle vacuum

There is a reason for that. Until you determine what that reason is you will probably not be able to solve all the other issues you are having.

Just to be clear, the coil/icm set can come from any LN3 powered car, Riv's, LeSabres, Pontiac Bonnevilles etc..

I haven't been able to locate anyone else with such ICM package. My only option in that area right now would be to purchase another reatta. I was proposed, a while back, to see a low mileage, garaged reatta, supposedly in pristine condition. But, no telling if it would be in order (likely to be sitting longer than this one)... plus, it'd be committing to owning another reatta...lol I'll have to purchase a vacuum guage. It seems I'm now in the process of repurchasing all the tools I lost years back. I'll take a look at that transmission preassure line. Im gonna go ahead and post a video (if this site allows for it) of the active readings. Honestly, im faced with a big learning curve here and a bit over my head. Learning alot though. I'm new to San Diego and don't really know anyone in this business. Aside from this forum... it's pretty much YouTube and I getting this done.

You can compression test at any time. I don’t remember any specific number but in almost all cases, balance between cylinders is most important. Aside from that, driving it as it is intended should give a good indication if further investigation is needed.

I finally got a little time to work on the Mercedes today. I installed the new fuel filter and fresh gas. After purging old gas and air in the fuel line through the Shrader valve I turned the key and it fired right up. I drove around a few minutes and got a check engine light. Scanner showed a code P1444. Mercedes guys say it is common and usually caused by a bad vacuum line going to the purge valve, or it could be a bad purge valve. I cleared the code and so far it's not came back. I've not driven it much on dry rotted tires. I've decided my speed limit is 45 mph until I get some different tires. I hate the black paint. Every time I tough it the damn thing it makes it look dirty. 🙂 Below is a photo of how I think a Mercedes is supposed to look in a garage. Only thing missing is a mechanic (me) laying under it. Kind of reminds me of a Reatta. lol

Way up (and I mean way up!) under the left side of the dashboard is the theft deterrent module. It has a 20amp in-line fuse...pull the fuse to disable the system. This will stop the system from horn beeping and lights flashing if there is an intrusion. Additionally, under the hood is a relay center. Relay "B" is for the horns. You can swap out one of the other relays to test if the "B" relay is any good i.e., horn now works. I'm referring all this from memory, so for what it's worth go for it.