Leaderboard

Thanks. I have commitments for three sets, with two remaining and available. I have been traveling for work much of the past two weeks so my time for conversions has slowed. Should have some time on Thursday to pick back up. If I continue after these first five sets will depend on interest and my ability to keep up with this side hustle!

Here's my 1989 Reatta. Only one I have ever seen in real life. These cars are pretty much unicorns over here in Europe.

I maybe can add a couple of things. First off the Fog Lights are not really Fog Lights as they have no illumination strength. Maybe if you installed LEDs bulbs one might then call them a Fog Light. I would run the Fog Light switch on to activate the running lights and let the authorities tell you different. Regarding the headlight switch. You stated that the switch melted. If that is the case your connecting plug to the switch might have a bare area where the power is jumping into another circuit. I have had problems in the past with melted switches and bad connector plugs. All kinds of illumination things can happen as almost everything in the dash runs through the Headlight Switch and then to a lessor extent the fog light switch.

Update, used my first part from my parts car, the cassette module. After checking that it didn't have a cassette stuck in it, too, I pulled the unit from the dashes of both cars, removed the cassette modules from the dash stereo units, and swapped them. I even discovered where the missing screw belonged. Even more surprising, I hadn't lost it between last week's foray and this weekend. Now I happily have the radio back, so i can use my hands-free phone Bluetooth FM adapter. Whew, what an ordeal.

Well I just completed the repair of the headlight motor and replaced the crank arm and it works great now! The old bell crank did look like it was starting to wear out (I'll post a picture of it tomorrow), and all of the nylon bushings inside the motor were completely disintegrated. The nylon gear inside the motor was totally fine. Thanks a lot to @Ronnie, @2seater, and @Ron Walker for their advice. They were right on the money with what was going wrong.

ECRP, as an established company that supplies Reatta parts, may have enough clout and buying power to convince Monroe to make another run of rear struts if a large enough quantity are ordered. I think Marck is sincere in saying he is trying to get them in stock. I expect they will be expensive. Most things that are in short supply are. People with nice, low mileage, Reattas will be happy to get them at any price. The rest of us with average drivers will continue down the path we are on of modifying a strut that will fit at a lesser cost. It's always good to have options. Most of us here on the ROJ forum have a common goal, trying to figure out ways to keep our Reattas on the road. I'm proud of what we have accomplished so far on finding a solution to the discontinued rear struts. Although I don't think Marck is a member of this forum, my hat's off to him for taking the initiative to try to make new rear struts available. I don't think he is partnering with someone here to make a reproduction strut. If he is it would really look bad on him, his company, and the person on this forum he is partnering with...

My new to me 1991 Gunmetal Gray metallic with 16 Way Adjustable Seats and drivers seat in Slate Leather.

If I had to choose between the two with the same mileage and condition I would choose the '89. I like the glove box door better and the keyless entry on the '89 might add to the value on resale. I don't lock my doors so that's not a selling factor for me. Collectors might choose the early '88 models with suede seats, black horn buttons electric glove box just because they are unique. As Ron Walker said, buy the best you can afford if you plan on keeping it. Especially if you don't think you can work on it yourself.