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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/20/2023 in all areas

  1. I didn't even have to go that far. Earlier today, I had the light stick on again so I popped the trunk and tapped on the relay. The light immediately went out. Diagnosis confirmed!
    2 points
  2. Well I just completed the repair of the headlight motor and replaced the crank arm and it works great now! The old bell crank did look like it was starting to wear out (I'll post a picture of it tomorrow), and all of the nylon bushings inside the motor were completely disintegrated. The nylon gear inside the motor was totally fine. Thanks a lot to @Ronnie, @2seater, and @Ron Walker for their advice. They were right on the money with what was going wrong.
    2 points
  3. Interesting. I will give that a go and see if that changes anything! Thank you for the diagram. I am gonna double check that ground for resistance levels to ensure it's good as well. I will let you know what happens! Hopefully I'll get a chance later today to check that.
    1 point
  4. Wipe off all the heat sink paste and bolt the ICM to mounting plate metal to metal. I see no reason to use paste if both aluminum mounting surfaces are clean. Aluminum is an excellent conductor of heat without any paste. I'm no electronics expert but when I look at the wiring diagram for the ICM (below) I see it having a chassis ground. The heat sink paste might be insulating the ICM from the mounting plate that grounds it. I might be wrong about that but I would remove the paste and see what happens.
    1 point
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