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I Thanks for the clarification, yall are the best! I just purchased a NOS GM harmonic balancer with part # 88959267 that is correct for 88-90 Reatta vin c motors. I also own the specific adjustment tool for adjusting gap on sensor. It also checks the rings on balancer as well. It is Kent Moore J-37089. It's gonna be a couple weeks before I use it. I might be willing to mail you the tool for your use and ship back to me if this can help you?

Something is wrong if you are hearing squeaking coming from the crank position sensor. Can you see where the metal shutter ring has been hitting the sensors you have been replacing? If so one of the shutter rings on the HB might be bent.

Ronnie is right on. The clearance on each side is only ~.015" on average and the slight angle makes it even more critical.

This is the method I used to align the sensor on mine. With the pinch screw loose enough to move the sensor, slide the balancer on and get the shutter ring started in the card as deep as you can without forcing it. Tighten the sensor pinch screw. Pull the balancer back enough to remove the card and then slide it back on. Visually check the sensor clearance. Tighten the balancer bolt and do a final visual check of clearance while turning the crankshaft.

I guess I never took better images of the crank sensor but I discovered this slant to the fingers of the sensor by accident. All sensors seem to be this way. It makes visually lining up the gap more difficult because the appearance changes depending on how you look at it. I found it really helps the view if that little shock bracket on the front of the later models is moved out of the way. A new balancer could have a bent shutter wheel from shipping and I also had a shutter wheel come loose on the new balancer for my s/c engine. Most are riveted in place but this one had screws, which backed out causing a rattle. Luckily that was caught before any real damage was done. Good luck

I dove deep enough to think maybe I had ruined the whole unit! Never did find a release or catch or other way to return the cassette tray to the eject position. I tried turning the unbelted wheel with my finger, no results. Probably need to turn whatever little wheel that one was driving, but couldn't see it or reach it even with the circuit boards moved out of the way. I'm afraid that if I get it any farther apart, something will go "Sprong!" and it will never go back together again. Managed to get it all put back together, just one screw left over 🤪