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I continued to look at why I kept getting a B440c code. So I decided to swap the programmer for another one on the shelf. Same deal, kept throwing the 440 code. So I did an override while reading the B028. It kept pointing to either a binding door or lost ground. So I decided to remove the BCM to look at the travel of the rod and if it was binding. Everything looked fine with clear travel of rod opening and closing the blend door with no binding. So I put the BCM back in and plugged the three connectors back in and am happy to report that I no longer have a 440 code and the air works fine. Must have been a bit of corrosion on one of the connector plugs. At any rate the A/C is blowing ice cold [not like the lukewarm of before] and no codes. Ready for the road as tomorrow I have appointments and it's supposed to hit 80.

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you have a nice Reatta. Lots of friendly folks here in the forum to help. There are some good troubleshooting guides for the CRT and Instrument panel on ROJ that you might find helpful. They can be found here: Reatta Owners Journal - Instrument Panel & CRT

I have not seen the brass replacement gear, but if it is made without the non-hobbed area like the plastic, removal/installation should be okay. I think there are reasons there are a selection of fusible links, in a manner of speaking. The bell crank and rollers could both be stronger, but in doing so it will move the failure point somewhere else.

If it were me I would stick with the white plastic gear if it is in good condition. I see nothing to gain with the brass gear. I've not known of one of the white plastic gears failing... but maybe they have. I see a potential disadvantage to using the brass gear. The right and left headlight motor/gearbox assemblies are different. When you open the gearbox on one side (the left if I remember correctly) the white plastic gear and drive shaft assembly will pull right out with no problems. On the other side, the white gear must be forced past the worm gear that drives it to get it out of the gearbox. The plastic gear has enough give to allow you to do that but the brass gear may not. Otherwise you have to remove the electric motor from the gearbox to move the worm gear out of the way. When you do that you take a chance of breaking the small screws that hold the motor to the gearbox. It is common for those screws to break. It's a big headache to get the broken screw out so you can install a new screw. I believe the brass gears were intended to be used in the Pontiac Fieros that were prone to breaking the plastic gear. That system used switches to shut off power to the motor. If the switches failed, and the motor didn't shut off, the white plastic gear would break. The Reatta has a different system with a electronic headlight control module that senses the current driving the motor. It will shut off the motor before the plastic gear is broken in normal operation. It will also shut the motor off after a certain period of time if the motor keeps running due to bad rollers or a bad crank arm.

Frequent issue with most headlights. The bouncing is probably a bad and rounded crank. The continued running is likely due to shot bushings. The shot bushings look like "rice" as shown in the photos provided by Ronnie.

Below are the two things that usually go bad. Crumbled rollers inside the gearbox and the rounded out bell crank arm that attaches to the shaft. You will want to replace the rollers, sometimes called bushings, when you open the gearbox and possibly the crank arms depending on condition. Unless your plastic gear is stripped, which is unusual, you won't need the brass gear. Don't take the screws out of the electric motor on the end of the gearbox. It only makes the job harder. Carefully remove the three screws to open the gearbox as shown in the last photo. Instructions for removing the headlight motors from the car are in the How-To guides here on ROJ.

Thanks for the clarification, yall are the best!

As far as I know, the limits of the motor are based on current feedback, not a switch inside. There is a timer that does stop the motor if it doesn’t run into a physical stop. The typical failure points are the three plastic rollers inside the actuator or the bell crank arm getting rounded out. Actual gear failures would be unusual