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Be thankful that Reatta owners have this and other forums where you can ask a question and get replies without being spammed to death with advertisements that pop up so much that you can't hardly read a post. I joined the Mercedes forum, which is a huge forum with lots of information, but the popup advertisements render it almost useless. Every time I get on it I get so frustrated I can hardly wait to get off. If this forum had to be like that I would shut it down.

I'm glad to see this is working out for everybody, there should still be a good supply of these struts, the Monroe & KYB's are the same dimensions & the off-brand ones are probably the same, just copies of the originals. Have to do whatever it takes to keep our cars on the road.

No, it doesn’t need to be replaced. I was just listing the parts involved in the total pcv system trying to clarify the comment about a “hose”. In a perfect and non hardened world, just the pcv valve itself is all to be replaced.

If you are replacing the timing set it only makes sense to install a new magnet. What pcv hose? There are two grommets plus the valve itself. The one grommet has a hose like extension, but no discreet hose. The pcv inlet pipe in the front valve cover is formed steel and a formed rubber hose where it connects to the throttle body. Install a new bypass hose between the front cover and the intake manifold, it is a formed ~90* hose. You do not need to remove the throttle body and MAF assembly when removing the intake manifold. Take it off in one piece but you may need to disconnect the fuel line clamp on the steel lines by the EGR to allow the lines to swing out of the way.

I agree. Several good options for replacing the struts are starting to emerge from this thread. Didn't mean to muddy the water by bringing up the Regal knuckles. The design of the Regal rear suspension is quite a bit different from the Reatta. It could be that the rear struts used on the Regal allows the camber to be adjusted much like can be done on the front struts of our Reattas. I can see similarities in the way the both mount to the knuckle with two bolts at the top. To adjust the camber on the rear of a Reatta you have to insert a tapered shim between the knuckle and the wheel bearing hub. Just a guess...

If you can get it past the moderator why don't you start a new post of the trials and tribulations of your new car?

I had codes but not related to low voltage or cruise. Loss of data. Last night just before I turned off the car the red warning for low charge came on and the CRT read 10.9 volts. Doesn't matter now as I have the one in there that I took off the Black before I sold it. Looks like I guessed wrong as to which alternator to be in the Black before I let it go...