Leaderboard

Since you changed the calipers, make sure the bleeder screws are at the top of the caliper. Sometimes if left and right calipers are installed on the wrong side, the bleeders end up on the bottom of the caliper, and you will never get all the air out when bleeding.

I got the old axle out today and decided to stop for the day. Next step will be to clean up all the grease the slung out of the old axle and then put the new (to me) axle in. Hard part so far was getting the lower ball joint loose and getting the axle out of the transmission. Getting the ball joint out of the knuckle is hard because the brake reaction rod or rubber bushings on the lower control arm wants to keep the control arm and ball joint pushed up against the knuckle. All that holds the axle in the transmission is a C clip but it snaps in really tight making the axle hard to get out. I took lots of photos. Here are a few of them. Not many tools needed really. Had to get the large 36mm socket as a loaner from AutoZone to remove the axle spindle nut. This photo has the nuts you have to remove marked with a red dot. Top red dot is a bolt that holds the ABS sensor to the strut. Removed it to prevent the sensor lead from getting in a bind. Not shown are the bolts that hold the brake caliper bracket on and the one that holds the bracket for the brake hose to the strut. Those bolts are on the other side of the knuckle. Everything loose and the axle removed. Ready for grease cleanup and installing the other axle.

@alchemist Pricing for a ready to install strut is spot on in my opinion. It is very fair and comparable to going the internal thread route. It will be a while until the internally threaded strut housings with KYB inserts are installed in my Reatta. I may not be a good judge of the ride quality as compared to OEM / OE replacements as the struts on my car were completely collapsed, but I will make an attempt once they are installed. Bottom line is that even a rough ride is better than one with worn struts.

While it is operational, do some of the tests suggested to see if the cylinder(s) giving trouble can be identified. I don't think the ICM's would have any features removed. Why they don't work is unclear, but while it is operational, check the things that you can. Then perhaps swap in one part at a time if desired. Just go through diagnostics and write down each reading as you step through the ECM data while it is idling. Maybe something will jump out?? Make doubly certain the spark plug connections are in the correct order. It is very easy to switch two of them on the rear bank. It has caught out many before you.