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I've never known bad spark plugs to cause the tach to quit working...

Rock auto lists a Cardone reman PCM for $100 and does state that the PROM must be transplanted. As for a junkyard search, the info states it was used in the majority of GM vehicles, including pickups, from 1991-1993. At the minimum, I would locate the existing PCM, remove it, unplug and reseat the PROM and spray the connectors with contact cleaner when reconnecting the harness. You should be able to leave it hang on the floor to test for improvement.

I am kind of leaning toward the PCM like Ronnie mentioned. This erratic behavior and some of the seemingly unrelated items turning on and off sounds very much like how my car acted when I was having apparent chip connection problems in my ECM. I do not know anything about the PCM on a 91, or even if it has a replaceable Prom.

Did you get into diagnostics and see what the indicated ignition timing was? The fuel pressure sounds about right but a bit more detail about the conditions under which it was obtained would be helpful. Normally the IAC, idle air control, will supply enough air to start the engine without touching the throttle, but I get the impression you needed to open the throttle a bit to get it to start and run? Did the MAF sensor look like the one on the right or left in this photo. A 1991 should use the model on the right, but either style will bolt on.

The wife is wondering if our next war is going to be fought with balloons and school buses. 🤣

I logged in on my Android Moto G TracFone and had no issues. I'll likely continue to use my PC because of my 19" monitor and regular sized keyboard, but the smartphone capability to access the ROJ and maneuver within the site is impressive. Thanks Ronnie for all that you do to keep this site going and updated.

I logged on to the mobile app using my iPhone 12 iOS version 16.1.2 and Safari search function. I had zero issues, layout was fine, and the functions I tested worked as I would have expected...A OK. Good work, Ronnie! PS: I did have to remind myself to turn off my "block all cookies" function within Safari on my iPhone.

I think you're on to something with the bubblegum. However, taking it a step more serious, use the same stick, but replace the bubblegum with the old stand by, duct tape.

Regarding rusted nuts and bolts, saw an interesting response in another forum I visit (Chevrolet SSR) on a variety of lubes used to break the rust. Since you "rounded" the head on your project, it may be too late. However, I've cut and will paste the response below. Sounds like some useful info that I have not tried myself, but maybe others have and can chime in. Sorry for the length of the article. Here goes: "From my experience in restoring antique trucks I tried most of the typically referenced penetrations sold. I found that none worked better than a concoction an old time restorer recommended. It was a 50:50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. I never had it fail me in breaking loose countless “frozen” nuts and bolts. "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt. Average torque load to loosen nut: No Oil used .........................516 foot pounds WD-40 ..................... .........238 foot pounds PB Blaster ..........................214 foot pounds Liquid Wrench .......................127 foot pounds Kano Kroil ..........................106 foot pounds ATF/Acetone mix..................... 53 foot pounds The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price. ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid."

Glad to be on the forum - here is a pix of my front yard during last years 4rth of July parade- thanks, bob

Two of the more interesting pics of my '91 Reatta are when I was having it repainted right after purchase in 2013:

What is the best photo you have ever taken of your Reatta? I've taken a lot of photos of mine over the years. I think this one is probably the one I like best. There's not a lot of detail about the car, but it just seems to be at home in that beautiful backdrop that frames it. It's the photo I use as the wallpaper on my computer screen.