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Regarding rusted nuts and bolts, saw an interesting response in another forum I visit (Chevrolet SSR) on a variety of lubes used to break the rust. Since you "rounded" the head on your project, it may be too late. However, I've cut and will paste the response below. Sounds like some useful info that I have not tried myself, but maybe others have and can chime in. Sorry for the length of the article. Here goes: "From my experience in restoring antique trucks I tried most of the typically referenced penetrations sold. I found that none worked better than a concoction an old time restorer recommended. It was a 50:50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. I never had it fail me in breaking loose countless “frozen” nuts and bolts. "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt. Average torque load to loosen nut: No Oil used .........................516 foot pounds WD-40 ..................... .........238 foot pounds PB Blaster ..........................214 foot pounds Liquid Wrench .......................127 foot pounds Kano Kroil ..........................106 foot pounds ATF/Acetone mix..................... 53 foot pounds The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price. ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid."

Maybe I am in left field but isn’t the ABS fuse above the relays on the firewall in the engine bay, or is there another one?

Sorry I can't offer much help. I've not had the pleasure of getting under the dash to find the ABS fuse. I don't know why the EBCM would be different for the '90 model but it might be.

I've used Kroil for years as a machinist with good success. It was provided by my employer so cost wasn't a consideration. Trans fluid and acetone is good, but acetone is highly flammable in enclosed spaces.

I have used the ATF/acetone mix on and off for years, and it does work well. Relatively inexpensive and a good way to use up those odd bottles of ATF from a vehicle you no longer have. I suspect power steering fluid would work as well but have never tried that.

Three 7mm screws. When you replace it only use the two "easy" screws to hold the module in place.

That is the most likely cause. The location is shown in the photo below. It is marked "Power Module". I think three screws hold it in.

Bubblegum and a long thin stick😅

I have a 1990 Buick Reatta/Riviera Service Manual that I no longer need. It's in good shape with no pages missing and would let it go at a reasonable price if anyone's interested. My email address is charles_liz@frontier.com if you would like to contact me to make an offer.

Thought the original 120A was a small case and 140A was a large case but looks like can still run plug wires under the alternator.

The 90 has VATS (resistor in the key). Blanks are available on eBay but you need to know the resistance in your key to know which of 15 values you need. The trunk key is conventional. Once you have the blanks, any locksmith or ACE hardware can cut duplicates. That is always my first action with a new car. BTW the remote is a four button. I find the Cadillac remote easier to use (buttons are shaped instead of round).

I always thought the push back was due to a bad lead. how does one unstick the valve?

Happy Holidays to the ROJ membership............may 2023 bring us some Reatta goodies.

Merry Christmas everyone! Ship, thanks for your kind words. I'm going to try to keep ROJ going as long as people are using it. Not been much participation lately but maybe it will pick up when nice weather arrives. Our weather here is the coldest it has been since the early '80s. I went to bed last night and the temperature was 48*. I woke up this morning and the temp was 11* with some high wind gusts but not enough to knock down trees. The last time it was this cold, I think it was 1982, all the shrubs died in front of my house. They were all covered with freezing rain that time. Maybe they won't die this time since we didn't get any rain or snow on them last night.

Stopped at a Cars and Coffee before heading to the garage and covering it up for the winter...

RA is fine as long as you do not need to return anything then it gets really "interesting".