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It doesn't affect the braking system or the booster at all, but it does deactivate the ABS system overall. Even though our braking system for the Teves 2 is three channels hydraulically, it receives four channels of input electrically. It needs input from all sensors or it is no longer ABS.

I have had this happen to me when I first bought the Red. If the Service Engine Soon light does not work [it's in the warning light area along the bottom of the instrument cluster] you will always have what you describe. It is an easy repair as it is just a light bulb that can be replaced. If that light works you will have to give us more information.

Even though they are combined in the master cylinder as a unit, you can think of the ABS (Antilock Brake System) and the power brakes as two separate systems. 1. Power Brakes The red warning light staying on all the time tells you that there is a problem with the pressure in the power brakes system. This is a dangerous situation and the car isn't safe to drive. If you see the red warning light flash momentarily when you tap the brakes it is usually caused by a bad accumulator. The car can still be driven with caution but the problem should be fixed as soon as possible. 2. ABS The yellow ABS light tells you there is a problem with the ABS. When anything in the ABS system goes wrong, even one wheel sensor, the ABS light will come on and the entire ABS will be disabled until the problem is fixed. The power brake part of the system will still function normally and you can still drive the care safely as long as the red warning light isn't on. You just won't have the anti-lock feature of the Teves brake system. The ABS makes the Reatta stop much quicker in a panic situation without sliding the wheels. It has saved my butt several times. Something that should be noted is anytime the red warning light is on the yellow ABS warning light will come on within a few seconds. That doesn't always mean the ABS system has a problem. The problem that is causing the red warning light to be on should be corrected first before trying to get the yellow ABS light to go out.

Only if that supplier comes here and reads up on it. There were only two posts on the AACA Reatta site [and three comments] about what the guy figured out and he was a guest at the time. This was back in 2016. I'm tempted to buy the remaining inventory, make up adapter plates and sell them for $150.00 each which was the last published price for the Reatta leads.

Hi Ron, Sorry, I can't recommend a repair shop in your area. Do you have the skills and tools to do the work on it yourself? There are lots of people on this forum with the knowledge to help you troubleshoot it and fix it if you can do the work. It would be helpful if you would describe exactly what is flashing. Is it the touch screen in the center of the dash or the instrument panel? The more details you can give us the more we will be able to help you.

Small hands and long fingers can be useful.

After you drive it , if the ABS light is on, check for codes again.

The way the codes in the EBCM are cleared is by driving the car. I don't remember the minimum speed but maybe 30 mph isn't fast enough. In this case disconnecting the battery won't reset the ABS codes like the other computers.