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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/03/2022 in all areas

  1. You will have to get Jon L to measure it for you. That is his photo. I just reposted it from a post he made a few months ago.
    1 point
  2. Tile's in and will be grouting on Saturday (need a break from this project 'til then). UPDATE: Tile & grout are done; toilet & vanity are in....mission complete as of 11/08/22!
    1 point
  3. There's a lot about it on the internet. I wouldn't worry about it. It's not a problem unless you disturb it. I wouldn't do anything to get it in the air like grinding it. We probably got 100 more times exposure by doing brake jobs on our cars in the old days. About all the old cars with brake shoes had asbestos in the brake linings. When you took the brakes drums off they were full of the brake dust. No telling how much I was exposed to the asbestos in brake lining material on the brake shoes. In the garage where I worked we had a machine that would grind the brake shoes to fit the radius of the brake drums after the drums were turned. If you were grinding the shoes for a big truck the dust would get so bad in the garage that we would turn on a big fan to blow it out the door. That was the good ole days. 🙂
    1 point
  4. There are a several ways to solve this problem, and this may be a potential fix. If I am understanding correctly; it will be important that the shock chosen have the correct O.D. / must fit tightly into the OEM portion of the strut that is still being used. A bolted connection thru a rubber isolator on the new shock may allow to much movement. There cannot be any movement between the shock and the lower knuckle (inside the cut off OEM strut); otherwise proper alignment will not be possible.
    1 point
  5. It continues to run well. In my quest to see where the knock bug exists, I tried various regimes to see what it does. I think I mentioned it climbs hills better with the S/C than the turbocharger under non downshift conditions. I was a bit surprised to find I could get 2-3psi of boost indicated if I roll pretty hard into the throttle with the trans in 4th gear and TCC locked. Lots of throttle but less than required to initiate a downshift. Something like rolling on the throttle at 60mph or so up to maybe 80mph, all the while showing a couple psi of positive pressure but never going over about 2400rpm. I figured only the turbocharger would do that, but I guess not. The best part was it showed no hint of knock. In the trivia department, I have been looking at better ways to quantify what happens with the supercharger without beating things up and going to a dyno, which was never my purpose. I was looking for information regarding the Eaton M62 supercharger and found a few figures that maybe illustrate where and how it helps. This is a bone stock late M62 with the coated rotors but the coating is not pristine. Stock 3" pulley which gives about a 2.33:1 overdrive ratio for the supercharger. 5000 engine rpm is 11,677 S/C rpm, where it apparently requires 16hp if producing 5psi of pressure. Basic math calculates the engine requires 340cfm at 5000rpm @ 100% volumetric efficiency, something not close to reality in N/A form, which is more like 65%-75%VE. At that engine rpm, the S/C is capable of 380cfm, so I guess that is where the boost comes from. By definition, boost is actually resistance to flow, so I am sure it is possible to increase flow through other means and increase performance while indicated boost declines.
    1 point
  6. Sounds like you are making good progress. Sorry that you had to go through all that just from trying to unclog a drain pipe. I cringe when I hear someone mention lath on the walls. I was a sheetrock hanger in Atlanta for a while in my younger days. We put sheetrock over lath in some old houses and it wasn't an easy job. You couldn't really find the studs by tapping with a hammer. Never heard of a stud finder back then. When you tried to drive a nail in the lath with a hammer it just wanted to bounce without the nail sinking all the way in if you were between studs. If the nail went in the crack between the lath they didn't hold anything and you had to try again. We weren't smart enough back in those days to use screws like they do today. I found out years later that some of the plaster over the lath had asbestos in it.
    1 point
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