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My '89 at the Rockville Car show of 500 cars - showing off my new "Survivor Plague"

It sounds like you're paying a plumber to do what I would consider to be the easy part. Why a plumber? Are you working with cast iron or do local regulations require a plumber to do it? I've never had a house that had the drain pipe for the toilet in the wall, other than the vent stack. Wife says it shouldn't be a bad job. She's saw them do it on HGTV in less than 30 minutes, including commercials. 🤣

Some time ago (2013 ?) I replaced the radio in a '90 with a Clarion CZ702 (could match dash colors) that had CD, BlueTooth, USB, satellite, and AUX. Needed a Metra wiring (GM10 ?) adapter. Note the din and a half housing adapter. See here. That whole thread might be useful.

Correct, but only if the headlight module hasn't timed out. It doesn't let the motor just sit there and spin forever. Otherwise bad rollers in a headlight motor would run the battery down in no time trying to close the doors.

This is the only tool you really need for dash work, but this is a must have! Also as a tip if you ever have to remove the long narrow vent piece when taking off the dash pad. Drill 3 holes in it to match the 3 torx screws that are used to hold the dash pad in place on the windshield side. Then if you should ever have to remove the pad in the future it will be much simpler and quicker as the screws are easily accesible. This was also a running change.

In addition to the tools Philbo links to at Harbor Freight, the only special tool I know of that is needed is shown in this how-to guide, along with instructions on how to make it. Dash Pad Removal Instructions

I have always used my fingertips. They may be 4 torx screws [running change] on the top edge of the 1990 IPC trim panel. There would be one in each vent and two in the middle. The '88/89 is even easier as there are no screws holding the IPC trim panel in place. After removal of the trim panel you cane see the two screws that hold each vent/CRT panel in place on the inside edge. There are no screws on the outside edge, just what I call snap in clips. I have never put any of the screws for the trim panels back in, they hold fine without them and no rattles either.

You're only a traitor if you give up on offering advice...

…hindsight is at least 20/20… been caught up in that too many times to count.

I'm wishing now that I had kept my old struts that I took off. They were still working just fine but they felt a little soft. I had the chance to get Monroe Sensa-tracs at a good deal so I replaced them. You can't keep everything when you have limited space but I would have made room if I had known they would be discontinued so soon.

The pipe issue is not related to the toilet but the gray water return pipe from the bathroom sink/vanity. The current damaged return pipe is cast iron leading to the stack pipe (also cast iron) at a 90* angled coupling. Current local regs don't allow me to cut into cast iron, only a plumber. He will most likely cut about 3" to 4" shy of the coupling and replace the rest of the return pipe with PVC pipe and a neoprene clamp. You have to remember that the house is 75 years old.... built in 1947. I don't do plumbing, but I'm a wiz at both electrical and tile work.

If a dirty spot when you turn the knob it should take off on its own.

If a snake punched out the pipe, it was ready to go anyway. Best to find out now.

It's possible there is a dirty spot on the armature in the motor. If the motor stops where the brushes in the motor are aligned with that spot the motor won't run. The next time it happens, instead of turning the knob to fully open the door, just turn it slightly and then turn the headlights off/on again to see if that will make the door open.

I have a set of tools very similar to these that work well: https://www.harborfreight.com/trim-and-molding-tool-set-5-piece-64126.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=425671834&campaignid=425671834&utm_content=1162184817282279&adsetid=1162184817282279&product=64126&store=&msclkid=1961950ad3d3162caa0bf650c97e46de

I think the engine torque specs is covered pretty well here: Engine Bolt Torque Specifications It would be a nightmare trying to lookup and list all the after market wheels are available for a Reatta. We have a list for early model radios. Radio Modules That Fit The 1988-89 Reatta I don't know about the later model after market radios that will fit. The selection seems to be limited from what I remember. I guess I dropped the ball on the guide that you wrote for replacing the turn signal switch. I'll look into it and try to get it posted. Winter is the best time for me to do it and it's about here.

71966 on eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/225223253360?epid=110027921&hash=item34705a1d70:g:2ucAAOSwCEdjWX96 same gentleman I bought the air shocks from.

I will absolutely continue as if I was going to install the Cardones. I may actually install them to verify the hypothesis.